Finally, BOOST
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Finally, BOOST
I put this on early last week and have been waiting until I got all the problems out of this before posting. After driving 780 trouble-free miles this weekend, I feel that it is de-bugged enough to mention it (Set the cruise @ 75 MPH/ 19 MPG never dropped out of OD).
Remember the Baseline Dyno that I posted about a month ago for my Peanut Cammed, Swirl port headed L05?
The L05 now has a 50 state legal Weiand 142 on it. 7 PSI/150KPA with the stock 1.95:1 drive ratio. It went from roughly 240 FWHP to an estimated 370 FWHP. I have been too busy to take it to the track, but it has run a 14.6 @ 102 on my G-Tech with massive wheelspin, peanut cam, swirlports an 1,800 rpm converter, and 3.08 gears.
I do know that it takes 90 lb/hr injectors at 27 PSI to feed it at 3,800 RPM and 7 PSI of boost. (Extremefi VAFPR gives 15 PSI @ 25 KPA idle, 20 PSI @ 100 KPA N/A, and 27 PSI @ 7 PSI boost) It builds boost as low as 1,200 RPM @ 70% TPS and pulls like a demon from there. Positive displacement is the only way to go for this big beast. Torque is there from the moment that I jab the throttle. With the peanut roller cam the Blown 350 idles at 550 RPM in Drive with mearly a whisper but pulls like a big block the second the hammer is dropped. The used 80K mile V6 S10 4L60E is already slipping pretty bad on the 2-3 shift and I expect to have to put my built 700r4s guts into it shortly.
I know that above 3 PSI and 3,500 RPM the tune is very late and rich still, but I am working on it. I need to get with RBob on tuning the Boost tables better, but as a start I just went with something that I felt would be super rich and super safe. So far, NO melted pistons.
The only issue I have is the PCM for the 4L60E keeps setting MAP high codes due to the boost. I used a seperate 1-bar MAP sensor for the PCM and connected it to the TBI above the blower, but the shifts are way out of time and the firmness is all wrong with it connected there.
Unfortunately my digital camera got dropped into water (still pissed at the girlfriend) and is KAPUT or I would have pictures/movies.
Here is an almost identical installation to mine, just mine is TBI with a HEI EST small cap distributer and the intake has an EGR valve on the left rear of it. I wish my interior was this CLEAN.
Remember the Baseline Dyno that I posted about a month ago for my Peanut Cammed, Swirl port headed L05?
The L05 now has a 50 state legal Weiand 142 on it. 7 PSI/150KPA with the stock 1.95:1 drive ratio. It went from roughly 240 FWHP to an estimated 370 FWHP. I have been too busy to take it to the track, but it has run a 14.6 @ 102 on my G-Tech with massive wheelspin, peanut cam, swirlports an 1,800 rpm converter, and 3.08 gears.
I do know that it takes 90 lb/hr injectors at 27 PSI to feed it at 3,800 RPM and 7 PSI of boost. (Extremefi VAFPR gives 15 PSI @ 25 KPA idle, 20 PSI @ 100 KPA N/A, and 27 PSI @ 7 PSI boost) It builds boost as low as 1,200 RPM @ 70% TPS and pulls like a demon from there. Positive displacement is the only way to go for this big beast. Torque is there from the moment that I jab the throttle. With the peanut roller cam the Blown 350 idles at 550 RPM in Drive with mearly a whisper but pulls like a big block the second the hammer is dropped. The used 80K mile V6 S10 4L60E is already slipping pretty bad on the 2-3 shift and I expect to have to put my built 700r4s guts into it shortly.
I know that above 3 PSI and 3,500 RPM the tune is very late and rich still, but I am working on it. I need to get with RBob on tuning the Boost tables better, but as a start I just went with something that I felt would be super rich and super safe. So far, NO melted pistons.
The only issue I have is the PCM for the 4L60E keeps setting MAP high codes due to the boost. I used a seperate 1-bar MAP sensor for the PCM and connected it to the TBI above the blower, but the shifts are way out of time and the firmness is all wrong with it connected there.
Unfortunately my digital camera got dropped into water (still pissed at the girlfriend) and is KAPUT or I would have pictures/movies.
Here is an almost identical installation to mine, just mine is TBI with a HEI EST small cap distributer and the intake has an EGR valve on the left rear of it. I wish my interior was this CLEAN.
Last edited by Fast355; 09-05-2006 at 03:32 AM.
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Neat. Its cool to see something a litte different. When can we expect to see some dyno numbers? Im interested to see what itll actually put out with a blower.
From that pic, it looks like that is a really tight installation, even in a van. Definatly would need to have a rediculously high cowl for it to clear in a thirdgen.
I think some others here have been working on the boost issue with the PCM. If that ever pans out, you could move control entirely over to the PCM. Its a good deal of work to make changes to it, but its definatly worth it as the mid-90's PCMs where the most advanced 8-bit computers GM put out.
From that pic, it looks like that is a really tight installation, even in a van. Definatly would need to have a rediculously high cowl for it to clear in a thirdgen.
The only issue I have is the PCM for the 4L60E keeps setting MAP high codes due to the boost. I used a seperate 1-bar MAP sensor for the PCM and connected it to the TBI above the blower, but the shifts are way out of time and the firmness is all wrong with it connected there.
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Well guys a good dyno pull is sometime off as the stock V6 4L60E needs attention (I am running MAX line pressure at heavier throttle positions and it still slips) and I don't have the time to pull it apart and install the parts from the 700r4. I have pulled up to 15* of timing advance out of it near 150 KPA/2,500 RPM range to help kill some mid-range torque to try to lengthen the demise of the 4L60E.
When I build the transmission up, I will increase the timing some and decrease the PE fuel some and take it to the track/dyno.
I have a feeling that my fuel mileage on the highway would be better without the 3-4 clutch pack and the 2-4 band slipping.
When I build the transmission up, I will increase the timing some and decrease the PE fuel some and take it to the track/dyno.
I have a feeling that my fuel mileage on the highway would be better without the 3-4 clutch pack and the 2-4 band slipping.
Last edited by Fast355; 09-05-2006 at 09:23 PM.
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
I think I won the bet
For the 1 bar MAP on the PCM. This should work: place the vacuum line to the manifold with a moderate restriction, say 1/16". Then at the MAP sensor T off a check valve. The other end of the check valve goes to the air cleaner.
The direction of the check valve needs to be such that it blows off once boost starts to build. That way the PCM MAP will see true manifold pressure from 20 KPa to barometric.
May also be able to get away without the check valve. Most pressure sensors can take 2 x the rated pressure without damage.
As seen in the rear window of a GN: "Got Boost?"
RBob.
For the 1 bar MAP on the PCM. This should work: place the vacuum line to the manifold with a moderate restriction, say 1/16". Then at the MAP sensor T off a check valve. The other end of the check valve goes to the air cleaner.
The direction of the check valve needs to be such that it blows off once boost starts to build. That way the PCM MAP will see true manifold pressure from 20 KPa to barometric.
May also be able to get away without the check valve. Most pressure sensors can take 2 x the rated pressure without damage.
As seen in the rear window of a GN: "Got Boost?"
RBob.
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#8
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
You had the advantage of already knowing my intentions though.
You also knew that I had the Weiand in the garage and the 2-bar MAP sensor functioning with the EBL.
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Car: 78 Caprice Coupe
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I'm sooo jealous.
What are you doing the weekend of the 22-24 of Sep? I'll be in up Dallas Fortworth land for Impalafest getting the tranny in my car replaced at Phoenix Trans and hanging out with my impala friends. We should get together and you can make fun of my horribly tuned car and maybe give some pointers
What are you doing the weekend of the 22-24 of Sep? I'll be in up Dallas Fortworth land for Impalafest getting the tranny in my car replaced at Phoenix Trans and hanging out with my impala friends. We should get together and you can make fun of my horribly tuned car and maybe give some pointers
#10
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Well, 3rd and 4th gears are gone. I made the trip home this afternoon in 2nd gear, running about 55 MPH (3,700 rpm). I don't have time to mess with the transmission right now and have other means of transportation, so it will sit until I have time to properly build the transmission to hold the torque.
TierAngst-
Where is Impalafest? My schedule is pretty filled, but I might try to make it by and check out your car and hang out for a while.
TierAngst-
Where is Impalafest? My schedule is pretty filled, but I might try to make it by and check out your car and hang out for a while.
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Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
I looked for the post but can't find it. I'll need to look again. I'm glad to see you did it. Boost is a good thing.
RBob.
{edit: I found the thread, it is in the huge EBL thread, about page 10, posts #'s: 452, 4453, & 461. Not a bet with anyone, just a general "my money's on the middle of Summer '06."
Embedded Lockers, HUD, and the Ultimate TBI code
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...-ultimate.html }
Last edited by RBob; 09-08-2006 at 07:46 AM.
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Car: 78 Caprice Coupe
Engine: 355
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
All info on impalafest is on http://impalafest.com/ its at texas motor speedway.
#14
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Wow, congratualtions! Another Weiand roots mini-blower convert- and with TBI to boot! Welcome to the club. It's hard to describe what they do to bottom end torque to those who have never driven one. Nothing like a centrifugal, but not quite like a nitrous system.
That's really cool you took the time to make it work with TBI. I did one years back with a computer-controlled QJet that I thought was pretty trick (put it on an LG-4 engine in a 3rd gen with opened up exhaust).
Have fun with it. When you lock up the blower (and you will- I never thought I would either but I did- twice) shoot me an email and I'll tell you how to fix it the right way for good.
Just a comment about the 1-bar MAP sensor..... that should be all you need. Just don't plug it in the port below the blower. Plug it in somewhere above the blower and it'll read just like stock- from vacuum down to basically atmospheric pressure at WOT. Of course, custom programming would be a must, but it sounds like you've already got your arms around that.
It's tough to kill low end torque with one of these blowers isn't it? pulling out 15* sounds like about what it would take in the low RPMs. What is your max advance at WOT? On my carbureted setup with 8:1 squeeze, aluminum heads (and a bunch of other stuff that bears no resemblance to your combo) I can just barely get to 28* at about 3000 RPMs. 26* is a lot safer, though. I imagine with swirl ports, iron heads, smaller cam and more compression you are running less than that- ~20-24*, just guessing??
I sure would like a knock sensor in my motor to be sure. It's tough to tune them when the only way you know you've stepped over the line is when piston chunks fly out the exhaust!
That's really cool you took the time to make it work with TBI. I did one years back with a computer-controlled QJet that I thought was pretty trick (put it on an LG-4 engine in a 3rd gen with opened up exhaust).
Have fun with it. When you lock up the blower (and you will- I never thought I would either but I did- twice) shoot me an email and I'll tell you how to fix it the right way for good.
Just a comment about the 1-bar MAP sensor..... that should be all you need. Just don't plug it in the port below the blower. Plug it in somewhere above the blower and it'll read just like stock- from vacuum down to basically atmospheric pressure at WOT. Of course, custom programming would be a must, but it sounds like you've already got your arms around that.
It's tough to kill low end torque with one of these blowers isn't it? pulling out 15* sounds like about what it would take in the low RPMs. What is your max advance at WOT? On my carbureted setup with 8:1 squeeze, aluminum heads (and a bunch of other stuff that bears no resemblance to your combo) I can just barely get to 28* at about 3000 RPMs. 26* is a lot safer, though. I imagine with swirl ports, iron heads, smaller cam and more compression you are running less than that- ~20-24*, just guessing??
I sure would like a knock sensor in my motor to be sure. It's tough to tune them when the only way you know you've stepped over the line is when piston chunks fly out the exhaust!
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