Ok, so i installed the Open-Element Air Cleaner on my 88 formula 305 tbi. I know i did it right, as the instructions we're easy, i also know that the housing is in no way rubbing on any coil wires, i checked 5 times.. it's a inch clearance to the coil wire.. and then half inch clearance to the wires that plug into the ignition coil? which is higher.. but i know nothing is rubbing, i also wrapped electrical tape around alot of it. Now here's the thing, everything seems fine, more power, sounds amazing. BUT, i'm getting shocked occasionally, it doesnt happen alot but whenever i touch the metal occasionally it shocks me, my friend got shocked too so i know it isn't just me. Any ideas what it could be? or is it not a huge deal? maybe it's a different wire coming in contact with it? i know other spark plug wires are rubbing on it, but it's not the coil wires. Thanks.

I'm thinking it just might be the spark plug wires coming in contact with the open-element base, causing the "shock". i haven't driven it that much, maybe 20 miles or so, hopefully im good.

Any input is appreciated

The other spark plug wires carry the same spark that came from the coil wire lol. They are usually a little less in diameter too. Did you wrap them in electrical tape too? That could be just as dangerous. If your wires are old, then the spark will soak through the insulators easier. Maybe you need a new set of wires to be safe.

Also, I would take off the air cleaner base, and put a bunch of electrical tape on that too. All over the bottom back side where the wires might be near rubbing. See if that helps.

The wires are pretty new.

But yeah i followed the instructions they never mentioned anything about the spark plug wires but i will wrap them in electrical tape to be safe, i was just focused on the bigger issue i guess ( coil ).

Hopefully not alot of damage was done? just drove about 20 miles.

If and when damage happens, you will either notice the plug wires are burned through, or you will be involved in an engine fire and your car will burn.

At least TRY the electrical tape on the bottom of the air cleaner. It will be on the bottom, and in the back so nobody will ever see it or know it is there. Not too sure how it will hold up to heat tho. You dont realize how strong the spark is. It is something like 40,000 volts. That is like high voltage lines. Electrical tape can only help so much. You will want to try to relocate those wires if you can.

Now I have a question for you. What aircleaner did you get? Is it Drop Base or Flat Base? Did you remove the gold spacer ring off your TB? And how is the clearence between your air cleaner base, and the throttle linkage?

Drop base, i originally got the 1 inch drop but it didnt clear the throttle linkage, so i got the 3/4 inch drop, and it fit fine.

I also have a high output coil, 53,000 volts.. and platinum spark plugs and decent wires that withstand over 1,000F.

I'm going to try to re-locate the wires and apply more electrical tape, but like i said the wires withstand 1,000F.

Not that it makes any exuses, thanks for the input adam.

So what brand was the air cleaner?

Also, it isnt how much heat the wires can withstand. I was saying if there is grounded metal (your aircleaner for instance) too close to the wires, the electricity will jump out and burn through the wires. The heat resistance would be like if you had the wires near a header tube.

Which coil did you get, and wires? I need to replace these soon becuase I have a new dizzy, but facotry 1989 wires and coil. They are still in good shape, but if an aftermarket one will give me more power I will buy it a little later down the road. Did they make a difference in power?

i got the Edelbrock Open-Element.. 14x3.

I acutally got Hypertech kit, coil/cap/rotor.. Part # HYP-4054

Wires i believe are Part # ACC-9033 on summit.

I also have a 160 hypertech stat and hypertech fan switch.. 177 on

Only downside is the idle is messed up a bit.. lights dim when at a complete stop, alternator levels are down, till u hit the gas.

Personally i think i just need a better amp'd Alternator, since im also running 2 12's and a 1000 watt amp, i'm thinking of a 140amp Powermaster for $150.

i reakon your alternators knackered, and prob causing the shocks aswell as not charging properly. change it.

just so you know regular copper plugs such as autolite and a/c delco plugs are better than platinums for our cars. itll run better, keep the more expensive plugs for the crap they belong in.

thanks the the info.. well the platinums only costed me $20 so i didnt mind.. even if the coppers are better, do you think im fine with platinums? i mean my car runs amazing for a 305 tbi, so i don't think i need to go back to coppers.

Edit: yeah zs&tas.. funny thing is its only 6 months old, and my warranty is up already.. i guess i got a faulty one from the get go.

I saw a Powermaster 140 Amp Alternator for $150 on summit, seems good for my setup, same size as my other one it seems aswell.

youre fine just leave them in there plus too much hassle. been there done that.

I used rapidfires, which are platinums and they work great.

ac delco rapid fires all the way!!!! Trash any boush spark plug thats in your car, boushs are for throwing at slowstangs and rices you pass


BTW look for even little cracks in the plug wires

SLOW_90 im running a MSD coil and accel plug wires, blue streak cap and rotor, with rapid fires...worth the extra few $$ to go with that instead of OE replacement.......before this tune up i was running a MSD cap and rotor and Moroso plug wires, they aslo were good

yeah im running NGK platinum's.. and the higher voltage coil and stuff.. it is worth it to go aftermarket.. in the future i'll get the MSD Blaster Coil and cap/rotor all msd... i have ACCEL wires as i stated above.

I'll check tomorrow if theres any cracks but i doubt it.

Nvm, posted a thread.

Fumes and heat can break down the insulation in short order, depending on how the car is run, state of repair, etc. Doesn't happen often, but wires *can* go bad in a week. Typically about a year, sometimes two.
The quick and dirty ( but fairly reliable ) method, is to idle the engine in a dark garage, or at night ( the darker the better ) and simply look for the blue fire.
DON'T get too close to moving parts !!

Typical spark voltage ( actual, not advertised ) will be around 8-11 thousand volts, possibly as high as 15 at WOT. Electrical tape is good for 600 volts, maybe, so if you're gonna wrap stuff, you'll need about *30* layers of tape to be sure !! You'd actually be better off slipping the foam tubes used to insulate air conditioner lines over the wires. The distance ( bulk ) of the tubes will give you a much more cost effective, and certain, insulation for as long as it lasts. It only takes 30 or 40 thousand volts to arc an inch in air, depending on humidity and such.
Yeah, I know, they advertise 40 or 80 thousand coil volts, but the coil will arc internally and destroy itself long before the voltage ever gets that high.

I'm good, it's not even touching anywhere i just wrapped it to be sure.

Also, the shock i was feeling.. well.. im dumb.. just a static shock.. someone told me from cloth seats or power windows and cold outside u tend to get a shock.