The car is a 1991 Camaro RS with the 305. A problem I am having is that my camaro Idles up and down sometimes and when I come to a stop sometimes it seems like it wants to cut off and sometimes actually does it, It has cut off twice on me in the past two weeks. Everytime I let off the gas and touch the brake I tremble in fear because of this problem I wonder is it going to cut off now or the next stop. Also when it rains outside really hard and I try to start it sometimes nothing happens. I'll just turn the key and nothing will happen. fifteen or twenty minutes later it will then fire up like nothing was ever wrong. I'm mentioning these two problems because I believe they are in correlation with something being wrong and I can't put my finger on it. Can somebody please tell me what could be wrong?

Sounds electrical, only because you said it really affects the car when its damp or rainy out

Does it turn over or just not do anything?

It does not do anything.

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Originally Posted by 85irocz355tpi Does it turn over or just not do anything?

When it does the no start does the security light stay on? And as for the way it is running I would start with a tune up. plugs wires cap and rotor.

Quick thought and I maybe wrong but it won’t cost you anything if it doesn’t need replacing. Checking the Distributor cap my guess because you said that when it’s raining. When it is that the moisture is get under it the engine well not start and the key well just turn with no effect.

Im not sure about the Security light I think it does I'm not sure but the SES light stays on.

Well your car has the Pass Key II theft deterrent system and they tend to malfunction with age. If your system is not working right it will shut down the starter so it won't start. It will then reset itself in a few minutes and then you can try to start it again. There is a way to disable the system and the procedure is on this site. You might want to check it out.

SES light is on you said? All the time? Sometimes? When does it go on only at stoplights? Have that checked before you start throwing parts at it.

Also check your distributor cap, a lot of times when they are replaced only 1 screw is holding the cap because people cant reach the rear one so its not completely sealed. Condensation, moisture could be a colpret. Take it out and inspect for corrosion.

My gf's old RS 305TBI had the same problem it would stall sometimes in the rain. It was so random though that i could never find out what it was.

Well the SES light comes on when I switch the key to power/accesory and when I fire the car up it goes away. It comes back on it seems when Im driving between 45-60 for a short period of time but thats it.

Under the driver side dash there is a plug, it's called the OBD, or ALDL plug, depending on who you ask. Either way, put a jumper between pins A and B.

Ignore the writing around that pic. It's not related to this.

It can be a paper clip, or a short piece of wire, whatever. Put it in with the key in the off position, and then turn the key on. Now, watch your service engine light. It's going to blink out sequences of numbers. To start off, it's going to blink 1 time, then twice. this is a "12". It's going to do this 3 times for each code stored in the computer. Code 12, is always there, it's to let you know you are now in "diagnostic" mode. After the code 12 flashes out 3 times, get ready to start counting. Write down what the sequences are that it flashes out. I got 5 bucks says you're going to get a code 32, which will be 3 blinks, followed by 2 blinks. Thats not what's causing your starting issues, but it is whats making the SES light come on after you've hit cruising speed.
After you get all the codes, turn off the key and remove the jumper from the OBD plug. Then compare them to this chart, and see what you got. Post back and lets us know what you found.

This was real helpful i found i had a 22, and a 24

Does anybody think that it could be the injectors themselves not injecting the fuel right or at a consistent rate?
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I had to get those two things replaced too.

sounds like the good old code 32.

really a no brainer, but check the batt terminals. i was having some wacky issues in my Blazer a few years back. give the positive cable a hairy eyeball, and it would shut down. a wire brush and about 45sec solved the problem. -Jim

I doubt it's VATS. That's usually only at start up.

...which sounds to me like a vaccum leak big enough to f-up the MAP readings at an idle. thus rpm surge as O2mv goes nuts chasing its tail.

So how do I find a vaccuum leak? because my car only does this after I drive a distance. This happened this weekend when me and this mechanic tried to look at my car. I had it off and when I started it up it did not act up and therefore he was clueless I even tried to drive it around the block and get it up to speed and it still did nothing. Later that night though when I got home from work the rough idleing started again.

I've had a very similar issue happen with my Caprice. For me it would die out at seemingly random times at any speed regardless of how long it had been running. It typically started back up instantly. Long story short, I had a bad ignition wire. When the wire experienced moisture it would arc and the vehicle would die out. I replaced it for $5 and haven't had the issue since. Others have said to check the distributor cap for condensation and I second this.

It's not the distributor cap that's causing my car to not start up in the rain. It's the Security System that came on some of the Third gens.

I'm still clueless as why my car still stalls on me. Me and my friend looked at the vacuum lines and they all looked fine.