Stalling and very rough idle
07-19-2009, 09:01 PM
#51
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Location: New Jersey
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Car: 1988 Camaro Base model
Engine: 305 LO3 5.0L V8 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10Bolt Rear, Not sure the gearing
Re: Stalling and very rough idle
How much does it cost to replace all those sensors and oil pressure switches? My car has surges and im only 16 taking up auto shop, Its summer now and i realy, realy, don't feel like messing things up. Im sure my fuel pump is bad and you just said that its a pain in the A$$ so I aint gunna bother, for the most part my car seems to run rich (lots of soot in the exhaust, it was so bad it destroyed/clogged my catalytic converter!) Any ideas? sorry to distract anyone from ratedrookies post, I just thought id throw it out there since we are all talking bout fuel, and with ratedrookies problem just replace the fuel pump since you checked everything out, in my school (autoshop) we had a 86 firebird in there with all sorts of trouble, and it ended up not getting fuel. Man i need a iroc with TPI! haha
10-13-2009, 07:17 AM
#53
Junior Member
Re: Stalling and very rough idle
wow what a read, I have a similar situation but exact opposite, My 91 formula 305tbi runs GREAT, but hard to start, I can run it all day long dog the crap out of it, it idles fine, unless you put it in gear, then it conks out, if you powerbrake a little bit to keep the revs up around 650-700rpm its fine, thought egr, all the IAC, CTS, MAP, Fuel filter, pump, etc,
looking though all the advice above, I dont need the fuel pump as I just changed it about 1000 miles ago, (Ac delco, not that chinese crap for 40bux at autozone) new sock sleeve, plastic case thing was all one unit, brand new, I have 6.2 lbs fuel pressure, wonder what mine is... clogged cat converter?
looking though all the advice above, I dont need the fuel pump as I just changed it about 1000 miles ago, (Ac delco, not that chinese crap for 40bux at autozone) new sock sleeve, plastic case thing was all one unit, brand new, I have 6.2 lbs fuel pressure, wonder what mine is... clogged cat converter?
Holy crap I figured it out, it was not fuel pressure, the inside of my distributer was rusted and turned into a spark fest. I took it out to check and clean it up, noticed some rust dust, so started cleaning it and the entire thing with the copper wires on it turned into slag dust, replaced the distributer with a new one for 75 bux ant autozone, installed and good as new, runs like a new car again, and my Fuel pressure is 6-10 lbs, when I rev the engine up it goes higher. so my fuel is fine.
thanks!
04-12-2010, 03:26 PM
#54
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Re: Stalling and very rough idle
I still have not corrected this problem and I am running out of time to get this done.
Aside from the cap, rotor, and ign module, I also finished replacing the fuel filter, some vacuum lines, the TB gasket, and installed a new IAC valve. I did the IAC re-learn procedure and the car is still not right.
On a cold start it's barely able to hold idle, but it seems like it's slightly better once the car is warm.
It starts up fine, but then the engine will surge from around 100-200 rpm to about 1000 rpm. Once I put the car into gear, it will want to die. I'm not really sure how to check the fuel injectors, but they are spraying a cone pattern that hits the side walls of the throttle body, which I believe is what they should be doing. Also, when the engine surges, you can see the fuel pressure increase and the injectors will spray more fuel to keep the engine running.
Aside from the cap, rotor, and ign module, I also finished replacing the fuel filter, some vacuum lines, the TB gasket, and installed a new IAC valve. I did the IAC re-learn procedure and the car is still not right.
On a cold start it's barely able to hold idle, but it seems like it's slightly better once the car is warm.
It starts up fine, but then the engine will surge from around 100-200 rpm to about 1000 rpm. Once I put the car into gear, it will want to die. I'm not really sure how to check the fuel injectors, but they are spraying a cone pattern that hits the side walls of the throttle body, which I believe is what they should be doing. Also, when the engine surges, you can see the fuel pressure increase and the injectors will spray more fuel to keep the engine running.
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