TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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1989 Convertible 305 or 350 (Long story too lazy to check) T-5 TBI
My battery died so I jumped it (Roll down hill, pop clutch). Started just fine put it back on my hill and parked it. Finished cleaning the garage and then went to jump it again, no go. Jumped it with jumper cables no go but it WAS cranking over just no starting. Put gas in the engine and it started right up. I thought, Great no fuel to the carb. Disconnected both lines into the carb and one poured out gas but other did not. Checked to see if it was squirting gas into the barrels and it wasn't.
Now, I have a funny feeling my CPU went "poof" (Knocks on wood). So how do I check to see if the prongs at the TBI is getting any current of what ever is transferred through the wires (Ohms, resistance or voltage)? What should I expect it to be in good working order?
Check the fuel pressure. Hook up a gauge, have the lines all intact, hot wire the pump. Fuel pressure is 9psi minimum. While watching the gauge wack the throttle. ANY DROP means that there isn't enough fuel delivery.
Usually there is a red wire with a fast-on terminal protruding from the area of the relays. This can be tied to battery + to hot wire the pump.
Check the fuel pressure. Hook up a gauge, have the lines all intact, hot wire the pump. Fuel pressure is 9psi minimum. While watching the gauge wack the throttle. ANY DROP means that there isn't enough fuel delivery.
Usually there is a red wire with a fast-on terminal protruding from the area of the relays. This can be tied to battery + to hot wire the pump.
RBob.
OK but don't you think it would still squirt gas out of the injectors? I will check this tomorrow.
If the injectors are not working it's probably not getting reference pulse from the distributor, have the ignition module tested it's probably gone bad. Also check the main 12v feed for the ecm, it's a red wire off the battery cable it has a 20 amp inline fuse on it the fuse maybe blown.
__________________ 89 Formula, Maui Blue,355 TPI(used to be TBI) Auto, B&M shift kit, afpr, 3.42 Richmond gears, auburn posi. 3" Flowmaster cat back system.
86 Camaro Z28 LB9 T-tops pretty much stock
current ride 2004 Cadillac Deville.
If the injectors are not working it's probably not getting reference pulse from the distributor, have the ignition module tested it's probably gone bad. Also check the main 12v feed for the ecm, it's a red wire off the battery cable it has a 20 amp inline fuse on it the fuse maybe blown.
Is there a way to check the reference pulses besides the ignition module being tested? Maybe with a voltmeter? The car doesn't run so if I can take the ignition module out then good but other than that I need to get it towed so I would rather buy a new one. Where can I find the ignition module? I'm sort of new to all this...
Ignition module is located under the distributor cap. It's the black plastic part that has 2 plugs on the backside. you need to remove the dist cap and rotor to get at it.
there is also 2 fuses in the fuse box marked inj1 and inj2 check those as well.
__________________ 89 Formula, Maui Blue,355 TPI(used to be TBI) Auto, B&M shift kit, afpr, 3.42 Richmond gears, auburn posi. 3" Flowmaster cat back system.
86 Camaro Z28 LB9 T-tops pretty much stock
current ride 2004 Cadillac Deville.
Ignition module is located under the distributor cap. It's the black plastic part that has 2 plugs on the backside. you need to remove the dist cap and rotor to get at it.
there is also 2 fuses in the fuse box marked inj1 and inj2 check those as well.
Alright, I'll check the fuses tomorrow and order a new ignition module. Is there any other symptoms of a bad ignition module?
Also what size thread is on the fuel line connectors? I kind of stripped it and I am ordering aftermarket ones.
