Its a 89 rs 305 tbi. I was thinking about getting rid of my stock air tube and running the dryer duct hose to this air filter (See the pic). the filter would be close to where the air now comes in on the stock set up. Only thing is that i would take out the stock filter leaving the air cleaner open, with the lid on it. Will this help at all? I bought the air filter for $3 at the junk yard.

check my sig. you could do something similar. i still have a k&n stock type filter in the housing.

Google Spectre colt air intakes. Makes like 100X easier.

Very cool. but you have two filters? Guess its not a good idea not to have the stock filter, cause of the few other ports that would be flowing raw unfiltered air? If I need to have two filters to do it that way, then ill just go with this.....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM-239431

If I had the money. I know Spectre is one of the best, but the cost leaves me out. if I wanted to spend money id get this for a lot cheaper.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=SUM-239431

Jump on eBay and search for a filter assy for a mid 90's full size dodge or chevy truck with TBI. I got my hat, bit of tubing and a fake K&N for about $50 delivered! the hat alone was 2-3X that from spectre. Sure, the spectre is 'better' but whatever. This ones pretty solid.

Oh yeah, where you have that filter positioned down by the evap canister as a 'cold' air intake? it's not so cold there. I've been watching my IAT's with MY filter pretty much right there, and the rise is HUGE. If I'm sitting at a light with some sucka beside me wanting to go, it'll hit in the low 100's! So the light changes and I've got diddly for power until you get moving and start to wash the hot air out. Tooooo late!

To test the theory, I built a (temporary) plastic wall to mostly block off that area. It worked! Not as well as I need/want, but it did prove that I was getting huge heat off the headers and rad discharge that was causing a hot air pocket there.

Next plan is to make a plastic box for the filter to sit in, then run some 6" tubing off the box, going through a hole in the edge of the wheel well. Pure outside air then.

The Fieros suck air from just in front of the rear wheel stock - and the IAT's are always the same as ambient air!


edit: I won't be cruel and make you search....
This is the one from the guys I got mine from

Here is my setup I built. Alot of people say its over kill but this car isnt going to be anytihng close to stock i have a set of 3.73 posi rear end i have an electric cut out off the stock sytem i have a stage 2 jet performance chip I just bought a set of Dart cast aluminum 5 angle ground racing heads with monster springs and im going to go shop for a cam to match my heads today and then im gonan have to upgrade my fuel system casue it wont acomidate my cam.

Very cool. I'd like to see when it's done. Let me know.

Pretty cool. How much do you have in that set up? Oh ya by the way. Be sure to pick up two of everything.

When you get those heads/cam in there and that Jet "performance" chip, you won't be able to pull it out of your driveway.

I did something sort of like what you're planning, i think, a while ago.

I removed the old black intake arm or w/e it is because it was cracked and replaced it with a big washing machine/dryer metal ducting (i forgot the size of it, 4 or 5 inches in diameter though) and hose clamped that to the snorkel and ran that up to the inside headlight and fit a ghetto filter i got from home depot, the filter looks like some sort of gardening piece, it's like that air filter you have as your pic striker except it's smaller and doesn't have the mesh filter.

I also removed the driver's side inside headlight (high beam) in hopes to increase airflow, think about it, a big 4-5 inch metal duct tube instead of that little black one.

Honestly, i don't notice a difference at all, whatever though, it was fun making it for the hour that it took and it's better than a cracked stock one.

I'll probably just get an open element.

If you didn't notice anything then ill just get the open element too. Then later on when I upgrade, I can get the K&N filter lid.

Yeah, that probably sounds best, i can speak for myself and honestly say ram air probably wouldn't make a difference on my car for a LONG time, because there's so much else that's inhibiting my motor, restrictive exhaust, restrictive heads, stock cam timing. But i'm sure if someone had a nicely hopped up motor they'd need more air to feed the motor and they would notice a difference.

i just made my own but it was easier with mine I guess. You can buy all the piping you need at autozone and just build one out of what they offer. I dunno what the quality is of that product but I see no harm in it.

Pretty much everyone here can say that I think.

"ram air" is somewhat a misnomer anyhow. Getting cold air is far more important at these levels. I read an article eons ago where they tested just what it takes to have actual ram air become effective. You needed something like a 2sq ft intake, and had to be going in excess of 150MPH or thereabouts to actually see a change (read: pressure increase)!

Ummmm.... I'm pretty sure not many of us are hitting that area on a daily basis.

I have about $300 in that setup and now i might actualy be selling it cause Im getting a 383 built with a shaker intake so keep in touch.

No but i'm sure it doesnt hurt and I like the sound the intake makes when you have a more open filter. I doubt it helps the fuel consumption.

lawl, yeah, that's crazy, 150 mph, no one does that.

But there's definitely a difference in performance when you're getting colder air forced into the cylinder opposed to that same amount of air being forced in, except it being the same warm air from the air outside.

Whatever though, ram air must make some difference if people actually shell out hundreds of dollars for their special "scoops" and ducts.

A couple of comments - the term Ram Air refers to the effect of resonance tuning due to the length and size of the intake, rather than an air scoop taking advantage of the air pressure from driving down the road. So ram air is real, but often misunderstood.

Now on to my own failures. I tried to ad long tubes to help the low end. At first I thought it helped, as I had been running rich, and it smoothed out the bottom end. However now that I have fixed the AFR, I found that I've lost some snap out of the bottom end. Running with the original air cleaner, the wheels just smoke when I punch it, but it dies at ~4800 RPM. With my long small tubes, I can only get a chirp off the line, but in the top end, it pulls hard, all the way up past 5200 RPM. I did one test run with no air cleaner, just open throttle valve. It had the same as the round air cleaner in the bottom, and pulled just as hard as the tubes in the top end. So its hard to say what will happen.

As to how to, I bought PVC pipe and bent it while holding it in front of a turbo heater. I found the best way to bend it, is only heat the side of the tube you want to stretch. This way the back side of the curve does not kink. One could also fill the tubing with sand to help it hold its shape while bending. Below is the end result. Yes this is not a 3rd gen vehicle, but get the idea.

I think to resolve the off the line problem, the tubes just need to be bigger. I assume that it just takes too long to get the air moving when the throttle plate first opens, so there needs to be more reserve air sitting on the throttle plates.

Its a van, but still a very cool lookin setup. Is that 2" pvc? Did you ever try it with the ABS (black) pipe? That stuff bends easier then pvc. Heck, you could take abs, and put it in the sun to bend it. Will take a while, but it would do it, as where the pvc would break. Never done what you did, but I was a pipe fitter at one time. killer idea for a van, but dont think ill try it.

Yes, it is 2" PVC. From what I've read, that size tube will support up to 400 HP. I was a little concerned as I didn't want the tubes to sag. The PVC bends at ~600 degrees F according to my IR gun, so it has not been a problem with heat. The best thing I like about it, is there is no air disturbance. The inside of the tubes are nice and smooth.

very cool. If I find another junk yard filter I might give it a shot. Thanks.

Seem like alot of work and money. Considering the linkage tubing i bought was only $40 from the local speed shop and I have dual 4"

I should make one other comment. I did this to a multiport set up. I'm not sure how well this would work with TBI without some creative thinking on how the air enters around the injectors. I couldn't find any PVC end caps that would fit the round air cleaner mount. I also wonder about a possible fire hazard if the fuel is that close to the PVC with a TBI. Just something to think through when designing a DIY setup.