I finally have all the parts, including a used lt1 cam out of a 94 camaro and am hoping to get working on rebuilding my engine this weekend. My question is that since I have the engine down to the long block and on an engine stand, can I install the cam without removing the lifters? I noticed that when I had the engine upside down, the lifters all looked like they were hanging down and being held in by the retainers? I was thinking that this would save me the trouble of removing them all and keeping them in order. But if not, no biggie.

well as far as i'm informed, if you are using a hydraulic roller valvetrain (which you should for the lt1 cam ), the lifters dont need be in order.

I've not tired it, but I think with the lifters in place, it would be difficult or impossible to install the cam. My advise would be to remove the lifters, mark them, and put them back into the same lifter bore you removed them from. If you have the motor out and on the stand, then this will take just a few minutes (assuming you have the intake manifold off). It will also give you a chance to inspect them and check for anything wrong.

So since it took me 45 mins to get out one lifter, I decided to just flip the engine over and try the method I suggested earlier. Flipping the engine over, the lifters fall down enough that removing the old cam and installing the new one was no problem at all.

If it took 45 minutes to get to the first lifter out, it should have taken 45 seconds to get the remaining 7 out . You already had to take the intake off so you might as well remove them all. Novel approach though rotating the engine over on a stand. Get ready to tune your ECM with this new cam. You won't be able to take short cuts there.

Well it was a classic case of not having the right tool for the job. Went to the parts store and got the only lifter removal tool they had, it was like 10 bucks and wasn't the slide hammer type. So since the lifters have never been out, and the tool wasn't staying locked on the lifter, it wasn't working out so great.

I'm actually looking forward to tuning my ECM, I'm actualy a SW Engineer by day, so the idea of "programming" my car is pretty awesome.

Can anybody chime in on my thread about installing the valve seals?

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...lve-seals.html (help installing valve seals)

Are you confusing this with a valve spring removal tool? Once the intake manifold is off all you need to do is unbolt the rocker arms, slide out of the pushrods, remove the lifter spider bracket (3 bolts) and slide out the lifters with your hands. Changing valve springs takes longer than this, and can be cumbersome if you do not have a good quality tool. A quick search on valve seals should help you. You can use the "cap" type on both intake and exhaust. Just use a long socket to help push them on evenly. No real tricks. Just go easy so you don't damage them.

No, I'm not confusing a lifter removal tool with a valve spring removal tool. I'm pretty sure that I read that other people could not get the lifters out of their engine with their bare hands. Summit has a lifter tool that is a slide hammer type that probably would have helped.

I have the heads off the engine and am using the valve spring tool that I rented from advanced auto, so getting the old springs off wasn't a problem at all. As far as the intake seals go, I'm just trying to verify what pieces go where (as per the other thread).

After enough miles varnish builds up on the lower end of the lifter. This prevents them from being easily pulled through the lifter bore. One trick is to use carb cleaner such as Gum-Out. Apply a little around the area between the lifter and bore. Let it run down and soak a bit.

This cuts through the varnish and makes it easier to pull the lifter out. If it still stubborn add some more and rotate the lifter as it is pulled out.

The same trick works when trying to get a distributor apart. The shaft will also get a build up of varnish. Once the gear and washers are off and the shaft is part way out, spray some gum-out into the shaft bore of the distributor. Work the shaft around to allow it to cut the varnish while pulling the shaft out.

RBob.

{edit: the other carb cleaner I was trying to think of is Berkebile 2+2. This stuff also works well in cutting varnish.}

there's some good practical info in here
i'd also appreciate any hints on changing the valve seals (also, which ones?) and i'll be following your thread.