TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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This is my first post and I wanted to say that this fourm is great. I've learned a lot from it. Anways, just wanted to get your guys thoughts on how these cam specs will perform. The picture thats attach has the specs.
It's going in my 305 tbi in my Camaro. Maybe I'll just have to wait and see how it performs after I get it all put back together. Hopefully It will be ready to run over Labor Day weekend where I have a 4 day weekend.
Anways, just wanted to get your guys thoughts on how these cam specs will perform. The picture thats attach has the specs.
Im no cam expert, by comparing with the LT1 cam specs and reading the "general information...", though the difference is not big I would pick a LT1 cam. It has more lift, less duration and more lobe separation. And has proven to work wery well in lo3's after a nice tune.
Im no cam expert, by comparing with the LT1 cam specs and reading the "general information...", though the difference is not big I would pick a LT1 cam.
Would have probably went with an LT1 cam but LT1's are hard to come by in my area. So I just took my old LO3 cam out and sent it up to the place where I send all of my cams and had them take it as far as the base circle would let them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saabster
That's a lot of cam for an otherwise stock LO3...
The rest of car is not all stock. I'll list all the mods.
Flowmaster 3 inch catback
Hooker headers
Hypertech thermomaster chip (may buy the stuff to burn my own to better suit the mods, depends on how the hypertech one works with the mods)
160 degree hypertech thermostat
K&N air filter
The rest of car is not all stock. I'll list all the mods.
Flowmaster 3 inch catback
Hooker headers
Hypertech thermomaster chip (may buy the stuff to burn my own to better suit the mods, depends on how the hypertech one works with the mods)
160 degree hypertech thermostat
K&N air filter
When I said "in what?" I meant what mods do you have.
Again, I think that's too much cam for a street driven, stock converter LO3. It's gonna have on hell of a lumpy idle, if you can get it to idle at all that is.
I mean almost any cam you can get will "work," but one with that much duration is gonna suck low in the rev range. I'd suggest valve springs as you're gonna be winding that engine up as much as you can to use it's power.
Also, why in the hell are you running a 160 degree thermostat? That's just gonna to make your car run poorly and increase engine wear. Is that even hot enough for the computer to register as operating temperature? Get a 195 degree t-stat.
Also, why in the hell are you running a 160 degree thermostat? That's just gonna to make your car run poorly and increase engine wear. Is that even hot enough for the computer to register as operating temperature? Get a 195 degree t-stat.
That's what hypertech recomended with their chip, it seems everybody on TGO runs 180 degree t-stats. It sure seemed to give it a lot more power when i put that in the chip in.
Well as long as it has computer tuning to match it's ok.
I think it's less than ideal, but I'm new around here. My opinion on engine temp is hotter is better. I'll probably try the 205 degree thermostat once I get my tranny fixed and some aluminum heads.
Yeah, its all how you look at it I guess. The way I see it is the cooler you can keep your combustion chamber the less chance of pinging. Thats just how I look at it, though. Thanks for the input Saabster.
So I ran this in Desktop Dyno for shits and giggles. Pretty like I thought, you're gonna lose about 20% of your low end torque for top end power. The biggest limitation is the stock rod bolts that aren't going to like more than 5500 rpms and your wide ratio automatic.
You are going to need to tune your own chips to make this combo run. The hypertech chip is a gimic and won't dial in your combo. I would take the time to learn now before you swap cams and then can't drive you car out of the driveway.
You are going to need to tune your own chips to make this combo run. The hypertech chip is a gimic and won't dial in your combo. I would take the time to learn now before you swap cams and then can't drive you car out of the driveway.
Theres also a dyno about 200 miles away that does test and tune. So ive thought about that as being an option as well.
You are going to need to tune your own chips to make this combo run. The hypertech chip is a gimic and won't dial in your combo. I would take the time to learn now before you swap cams and then can't drive you car out of the driveway.
Listen to shifty! I put on World Heads & Comp Cam last summer w/o any tuning and haven't driven it since because it's running like crap. Learn to tune first then cam!!
What does your car run in the 1/4 mile was just wondering because the mods you have is what i am wanting to put in my car
I couldnt tell you what it ran in the 1/4 JR, never has been taken to a track, nor have I really got to drive it. Here I'll try and make a long story a short one. I just bought it from my brother this summer after he decided to take the cam out to try and give it more power. This summer I also started to look for a Camaro. I ended up buying a 1994 Camaro turned into a POS that needed a lot work. So my brother traded me for the POS Camaro for his, which I now own (always wanted that car anyways). He never really drove it that much so, he said I might as well get some use out of it. But anyways, I can tell you that after my brother put all that stuff on it made one hell of a difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakermaker05
Listen to shifty! I put on World Heads & Comp Cam last summer w/o any tuning and haven't driven it since because it's running like crap. Learn to tune first then cam!!
As you can see its to late, already have the cam cut and put in. I just degreed the cam Tuesday night and will try to get it all put together this weekend. If it runs like crap its getting loaded up on the trailer and getting taken to the dyno and getting tuned.
Dyno shop cant do very much, they could only make it run, but you can do that too by upgrading to EBL, loading the stock bin and doing 1-2 VE learns. You need to take care of the fueling first, get EBL and install a WB02, only then you can effectively tune it on the dyno.
As saabster already pointed out, the 180° thermostat is already on the cool side for the wet flow intake, though you need to avoid feeding it hot underhood air, a 160 or 195° thermostat will not affect that issue effectively.