TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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I ditched the 200K + LO3 several months ago in favor of a low mileage 355 that I got from one of my local club members. I drove the car about 200 miles before I started stripping it down for paint. I just started driving the car again about a week or so ago when I finished making it shiny.
I have no idea what kind HP/TQ #'s I'm putting down with this combo and who knows when I'll get a chance to get it on a dyno. All I know is my car is WAY quicker now than it was with the 305.
Here's what I have in it now:
350 block from '96 Chevy truck
Bored .030 over
9.8:1 compression.
Hypereutectic pistons.
HD rods.
LO3 heads ported and polished, 3 angle valve job, machined surface, cut pockets.
Competition Cam, 211/221 @ .050 with .442/.465 lift 110 LSA.
Port and gasket matched intake/heads
Stock TBI with 350 injectors.
180* stat.
Accel coil.
Accel plugs
8mm Accel wires
Edelbrock shorties with custom Y-pipe
Mail order chip
I've done all of the Ultimate TBI mods and run an open element.
I swapped in a T-5 and my ratios are:
Ratio........1st.............2nd.........3rd.........4th............Rev.......5th
T5U..........2.95...........1.94.......1.34........1.1............2.76........63
I have a 3.27 9 bolt from an 89 GTA.
The car pulls extremely hard up to 5K RPM...I don't really push it much past that driving around.
Does anybody know what this combo should realistically put down?
For the record, after swapping this in I have killed two different 4th gen LS1 cars from stoplights up to 100 MPH. (Not in the city...we have a stoplight out in the middle of a 4 lane highway for some strange reason.)
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
I would say it is not possible to give a reasonable hp estimate without knowing flow date for the heads. However, with the cam you are running it would take a heck of a port job on LO3 heads with stock valve size to get into stock LS1 territory.
Ouch!!! I think he'd do a little better than that even without porting the heads.
nah ... he doesn't mention TBI mods or different intake manifold and the heads in themselves even ported are boat anchors. The headers help I suppose but I will give the benefit of the doubt
nah ... he doesn't mention TBI mods or different intake manifold and the heads in themselves even ported are boat anchors. The headers help I suppose but I will give the benefit of the doubt
216hp
Ha, Ha!!!!
It's a 350 now, not a 305.
I was wondering when I would get the "LO3 heads are boat anchors" .
As I mentioned in my first post I have done all of the Ultimate TBI mods in the sticky. (grinding down the TB, bumping FP, injector spacer, etc....)
I have an LO5 intake.
__________________ 1988 Drop Top RS... LT-1/700R4/3.23 1LE brakes all around behind polished Y2K's, 36/24mm sway bars, wonder bar, koni yellows, and a few other "goodies"
....still sporting trailer park 5 color paint for now. 88 RS vert build thread
I would say it is not possible to give a reasonable hp estimate without knowing flow date for the heads. However, with the cam you are running it would take a heck of a port job on LO3 heads with stock valve size to get into stock LS1 territory.
A stock valved and unported LO3 head will flow around 165cfm which is good for a theoretical power limit just north of 300. Porting will expand that range but I am not sure if you are near 400hp. I would suspect your car could be a lot faster with some DIY chip tuning. That mail order tune is leaving a lot of power. My geuss is that you are making around 300hp with the capability of making near 340 or so with a better tune and possibly larger TBI unit.
IMHO in a street race allot of things can happen, around here ls1 cars run and dyno pretty strong.
For horsepower I always go more by trap speeds at the strip than dyno's. They seem to be more even track to track compared to dyno to dyno. You may be surprised how some cars ET pretty strong with supposed small rwhp numbers.
I always gotta know my "numbers" but it sounds strong. A third with some power is a fun car to drive!
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