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Installed new brake pads, now they screech, what gives???
I just replaced my original brake pads with Raybestos Brutestops. They are quality brakes (semi-metallic) but I didn't think they would screech like they are. I was told that because they are quality pads, they will screech a little. Is this a temporary thing? Will they "break-in", then stop screeching? It only happens sometimes when I apply a little pressure, then when the pedal is fully pressed it stops. It's embarrassing though because it sounds like they need to be changed.
Thanks.
__________________ -1989 Trans Am GTA- 5.7 L/350/Auto. Black, T-tops, black cross-lace wheels, tint all around, 43k miles, SLP Exhaust, SLP Airfoil, Cold Air, Granatelli MAF, Aluminum Driveshaft, MINT!!!.
-1992 Firebird - (daily driver), 3.1 L V6/Auto/. Green, hardtop, 120k miles, no mods, just K&N.
If you have all the air bled out properly..you shouldnt have the sponge effect..they will not work themselves out....unless you have a leaky system...wich would not be good...I would try bleeding them again...dont let the resevoir get empty oe low while you are doing this...If your problem persist..take a look at the master cylinder....Anytime someone tells me.."it will work itself out" I bust out the flag......Wish my car could fix itself, save me some fishing time...
__________________ 1989 RS previous 2.8,
406 sbc.RHS built..Fully ported Dart/World Sportsman II . Crane roller cam.Comp 1.5 roller rockers,TRW forged pistons 9:1 compression. 800cfi Holley.Ported Holley contender intake..Moroso 7 qrt pan..Hooker Super Comps, Ministarter, Summit Racing Seat, 5 point harness, Spohn Torque arm. Spohn 8 point roll cage, Sphon Sub frame connecters. Sphon line lock. B&M mega Shifter, Manual steering box. Race built 700r4 stage 111 shift kit, 4"cowel hood by Harwood, 28x10" Hoosiers on 10" Welds rear.. 28x4 1/2 Hoosiers on 3 1/2 welds up front .Oh Yes Getting serious now!
SOLD
1994 Z28 LT1/T56 Bone Stock! SOLD
" Damned Horse's "
Are semi-metallic the best brakes to buy? Aren't most brakes semi-metallic? Are the GM brakes semi-metallic? The squeal is horrible. Someone told me to hit the brakes hard a few times so the brakes will mate better with the rotors. True??
After you intalled them, did you go out and really give them hell to make sure that everything was cool like a lot of people do? Cause if you heat up new pads too much, they will glaze (harden), and they won't shut up for the life of the pad.
you can buy non metalic...thats what I did for my wifes Olds...after the switch,,,no more screech....they just dont last as long..but they are also cheaper...metalic brakes will screech, sometimes...fact...you could always try some brake cleaner.
I didn't have the rotors turned. The car only has 38k miles on it. I didn't think it was necessary. What I'm looking to find out is if the screeching will stop with time. Since the pad change-out, I've put about 100-125 miles on the car.
Might get worse with time....and dust and brake dust..try the brake cleaner..
weather or not they need turned depends on how bad you let the first set get...ive seen a rotor melted on a car with 20,000 before...
When the brakes started squeeking on my astro, and the pads and rotors still looked good, my brothers auto shop teacher said to put a couple lines of valve grinding compound on the rotors.
Stopped the squeek, and the pads aren't wearing out any quicker than they should. Now whenever I do brakes, I always use a little, even on new rotors, and I haven't had any problems since with glazing or squeeling.
Put about 3 or 4 stripes across each side of the rotor, I'm hitting 100% using this method so far.
__________________ `85 Iroc- 355 TPI/auto
Black w/ 2 1/2" Harwood cowl hood
Best E.T.= 12.58 @109
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front engine dragster in the works
Carbon-metallics don't squeal readily, but they certainly do produce dusting.
Ceramics may tend to squeal just a bit more than carbo-mets, but don't dust nearly as badly.
With any pad replacement, its always a good idea to at least break the glaze on the rotors to help bed in the shoes and inhibit glazing/noise. The lapping compound trick is a good one. I might have to try that.
If you have a soft pedal with 4-wheel discs, it's either due to air in the lines, a caliper that is sticking on the bracket or cracked, or brake hoses that are swelling under pressure. If you're positive all the air is out and the calipers are in good condition, you might need to switch to better than stock brake hoses. OEMs sometimes use steel rings crimped around the hose to minimize the balooning effect, and those can rust away. Stainless braid-covered lines prevent this, but tend to have their own particular problems in exchange. Nylon composite (layered) hoses tend to eliminate both sets of problems, but they aren't as "pretty" as the stainless braids. Personally, I'd rather have better brakes than pretty hoses.
If you have rear drums, you could also have brake hardwar sticking or a cracked drum, allowing it to flex and expand.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
Sucks when you replace your brake pads and they sound worse than the ones you replaced them with. Which didn't make any noise, they were just wearing too thin. Guess I should have resurfaced those rotors after all....