Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Mechanic put 10W-30 in my engine instead of recommended 5W-30
Hey guys,
I noticed today that the mechanic put 10W-30 in my car last week when it went for an oil change. This is written on a little sticker on my rad support that they put everytime its serviced. My problem is, the cap says 5W-30. Guess he didn't read the cap, oh well.
__________________ Ian Moore
1985 Camaro Sport Coupe - TPI
Five Liter TBI Eater -=ICON MOTORSPORTS=- - Motorsports for ignorant people. Need a Custom PROM?
I dont think there is that much of a difference in weights. I dont think it would cause it not to leak. I always used 10w-30 in my 305 but with the brand new 350 I think I used 5w-30 valvoline synthetic and a k&n filter. Its getting synthetic only for now on since its brand new.
I wouldn't worry about it. The temp ranges for 5W-30 and 10W-30 have a large overlap. I run 10W-30 in CA in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter in CO. If the mechanic used conventional oil you shouldn't have to worry about leaks (sometimes a conventional to synthetic which can bring on leaks).
Although a 5W will be slightly thinner than a 10W (and there is some overlap, as mentioned above), the biggest difference is that 5W oils must have a pour point of no higher than -20 degrees F, whereas there is no such requirement for 10W oils. As long as you don't try to start the car when it is cold-soaked below -20 F, you shouldn't have a problem.
Most synthetic 10W oils have a pour point below -20 F, anyway, but I wouldn't guarentee all of them do (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, yes).
Before I knew about the distributor o-ring leak (o-ring dries up and you get an oil leak down the back of the engine block), I had a small/slow oil drip. My dad suggested I run 10w30 to minimize the oil leak while the car sat overnight... seemed to have worked. Since then, I've always used 10w30 instead of 5w30. Doesn't get quite that cold in NJ, anyway... cold, yeah, but not enough to require 5w30 (in my opinion)...
The mechanic might just have a big drum of 10w30 oil with one of those sweet automatic pumps; every car you bring in might get 10w30. That setup's on my Christmas list but I doubt I'll get it
__________________ -Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
Originally posted by TomP Before I knew about the distributor o-ring leak (o-ring dries up and you get an oil leak down the back of the engine block), I had a small/slow oil drip. My dad suggested I run 10w30 to minimize the oil leak while the car sat overnight... seemed to have worked. Since then, I've always used 10w30 instead of 5w30. Doesn't get quite that cold in NJ, anyway... cold, yeah, but not enough to require 5w30 (in my opinion)...
The mechanic might just have a big drum of 10w30 oil with one of those sweet automatic pumps; every car you bring in might get 10w30. That setup's on my Christmas list but I doubt I'll get it
Have that at my work, but it's got 5w30. That's what we put in everything unless otherwise specified (on the cap, or by customer). And most things seem to want 5w30 anyway, so...that's what they get...
25 years ago before i was born my dad had a jeep that had an oil leak...so he put in some 50weight...that winter he tried to crank it and it broke the timing chain
I actually don't use 5w30 on anything. I much prefer 10w30... the less viscosity modifiers in the oil, the better, I always say. That and my LS1 has a nasty tendency to burn 5w30 synthetic....
If you think about it, the cap is the same age as the car. Therefore 5w30 would be ideal when the car was new, but after 15-20 years of wear and tear a thicker oil like 10w30 would in fact be better.
Am I the only one that runs 10-40 here? I have 10-30 in my S-10 right now and it really doesn't like it (I really don't like TBI 2.8's anyway). In the Camaro, I always run 10-40, primarily due to age and mileage, and the oil pressure stays right at about 30 (have to consider the accuracy of a stock gauge). As for the Intrepid, I'm being very careful, they have enough troubles with the bottom end on the 2.7 to scare me!
For an loder vehicle such as a thirdgen, I wouldn't be overly concerned, but some of the newer engines, primarily Imports (Ford 4 cyl is a MAzda, and therefore is Import) the wrong oil can be detrimental, and kill the engine. Not so much the weight of the oil, but more on the API ratings.
__________________ http://www.jpteck.com/efi
------------------------------
ASE Certified Master Tech