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Could you please recommend a good cam for me.... I am looking ot get the most performance possible... and I do like the rough idle...
I have a 1988 Iroc Z28 Engine Size: 350 Bore: 4"
Stroke: 3.48" Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 Connecting Rods: Stock
Rocker Arm Ratio: Stock(1.5 I think) Intake: Stock TPI Computer Controlled: YES Meet Emissions Standards: NO
Cylinder Heads: Stock, but will be ported eventually
Valve Size: Stock intake, Stock exhaust Pistons: Stock
Transmission: B&M 700r4 Street Auto
Converter: B&M 2100 Hole shot converter
Rear End Ratio: Currently 2.77, but will be 3.45 eventually
Rear Tire Size: 245/50/16
Fuel Used: 91 octane pump gas, sometimes 93 octane
Exhaust: Single 3" Flowmaster 40 series, no cat.
Headers: Flowteck ceramic coated 1.5" primary's and 2.5" collecters Curb Weight: 3400 lbs RPM Range: 1000-5500
Car Use: daily driver, fun at the track, street racing
Computer has: JET stage II performance chip
Current Cam: Stock GM 10066049 int.415 exh.430 int207 exh213 lobesep 117
this is what they recommended....
PART NUMBER 08-502-8
ENGINE CHEVY SM BLK 305-350
GRIND # CS XR269HR-12
DESCRIPTION HYD ROLLER CAM
INT EXH
VALVE ADJUSTMENT HYD HYD0
GROSS VALVE LIFT .495 .503
DURATION AT
.006 TAPPET LIFT 269 276
VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
AT .006 INT 26 62
EXH 74 22
THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM INSTALLED
AT 108 INT C/L
INT EXH
DUR AT .050 218 224
LOBE LIFT .3300 .3350
LOBE SEPARATION 112.0 INT MASTER ID 331
ADVANCE 4 EXH MASTER ID 331
RECOMMENDED CC VALVE SPRINGS 986-16
my question is..... Is this a good recommendation.... or should i go with something else... I know there are a million opinions on the right cam... also this car is gonna be mainly street driven, but taking to the track some... please give me some help, is hte lift enough/too much... is the duration tooshort/toolong???
thanks guys
__________________ 1988 Iroc-Z
350 bored .040 over, 9.72 Forged Pistons Ceremic coated/Moly coated, Comp Cams 280HR Cam, 1.6 Pro-Magnum RR's, Pro Action Iron Lighting 200cc Heads, Manley 2.02 /1.60 valves, Comp Cams 3/8" hardened push rods with guideplates, Melling Hi volume oil pump, WalBro GS340 Fuel Pump, Holley Stealth Ram Intake, ARP head-intake-rocker studs-header bolts, Flowtech Ceremic Coated Headers, Custom Off-road y-pipe, 3" into a 40 Series Flowmaster, MSD 8.5MM Super Conductor plug wires, MSD blaster 2 GM coil, Ed Wright Custom Chip, 30lb SVO injectors, B&M 2100 Stall, B&M S/S 700R4, and the never over looked K&N
its a good recommendation, but you can do better. that cam will not "idle rough" in a mild motor, but will be nice on the street, and in a near stock motor it will probably idle a bit rough. its also TPI computer compatible, by the looks of it.
The reason I say you can do better, is because the .050-.050 VS advertised is almost the same as a Flat tappet XE262 cam. 218/224 but LESS advertised on the XE262.
that means your extra "advertised" duration is going to waste on a perfectly good roller cam. of course, they probably recommended it because they figured you didnt want to upgrade your valve spings.
but if you want to get the best value, upgrade springs / rockers / pushrods and get a cam with about the same .050-.050 but alot less advertised and a little more lift.
thats MY recommendation, and other people may have DIFFERENT recommendations.
All of their XR roller series have specs that compare to the XE flat series like that. I can tell you, having changed the otherwise identical motor from a XE274H (230°/236°) to a XR282 which has the same .050" spec, the difference in the "advertised" duration is negligible, and the roller cam runs a whole lot stronger than the flat did.
Their recommendation is actually pretty aggressive for them; they usually tend a little toward the conservative. It looks like a good choice to me for your engine after the mods you talk about, but will probably slow the car down and merely make it drink more gas if you put that much cam in it as it now sits.
Believe the valve spring recommendation. Note that they are the 986 spring, which is a 1.45" outer diameter dual spring with damper as opposed to the stock 1.25" diameter single spring with damper; this will require machine work to the heads. You can't put any more lift in without having to do this, if you want long-term reliability. You really should upgrade the rocker arms at the same time too, get rid of the lame rubbery stock ones and put something in with a consistent ratio.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
the only other mods i am planning on doing is port and polish the heads, change the rear end from 2.77 to 3.4x and upgrade the ignition.... so i should do all that before i get a cam?