Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Hey guys,
My car won't start for the millionth time in the past 6 months, its these ignition modules, I keep blowing them, or the wire connection from the pickup to the module is bad. Either way, its in the distributor, and AAA diagnostic said the pickup wires were bad. Im going to fix it right this time, and I am wondering, should I just replace the pickup and the ICM and be on my way, or should I buy an entire rebuilt distributor from a local parts shop? Will I see any benefits from having a brand new distributor in there (other than the pickup and ICM?) Also, if I do just replace my pickup and ICM, do I need to remove the entire distributor assembly, or just take off the cat and pry off the "clip" that holds the pickup in place? If I do have to remove the distributor, will the oil pump shaft come out with it? My car is a 3.1 V6. Any help is greatly appreciated.
To replace the p/u you have to remove and disassemble the distributor...the p/u will run around $20..the module $25- $50...I would just rebuild what you have...my .02
__________________ 1989 RS previous 2.8,
406 sbc.RHS built..Fully ported Dart/World Sportsman II . Crane roller cam.Comp 1.5 roller rockers,TRW forged pistons 9:1 compression. 800cfi Holley.Ported Holley contender intake..Moroso 7 qrt pan..Hooker Super Comps, Ministarter, Summit Racing Seat, 5 point harness, Spohn Torque arm. Spohn 8 point roll cage, Sphon Sub frame connecters. Sphon line lock. B&M mega Shifter, Manual steering box. Race built 700r4 stage 111 shift kit, 4"cowel hood by Harwood, 28x10" Hoosiers on 10" Welds rear.. 28x4 1/2 Hoosiers on 3 1/2 welds up front .Oh Yes Getting serious now!
SOLD
1994 Z28 LT1/T56 Bone Stock! SOLD
" Damned Horse's "
Take a good look at the bushings and shaft. If everything is in good condition, just rebuild it.
One thing I've noticed with many stock distributors is the poor treatment of the oil passage area near the bottom. There is often a lot of excess cating flash and material there. While it probably doesn't really impede oil flow, if you're somewhat "anal" like some of us you might want to clean up the excess with a file or die grinder to make sure the passage is full size all the way around the shaft. Just another one of those details, and as long as the distributor is out...
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."