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My T-Tops are leaking, and I want to replace the seals. Classic Industries sells a kit for the '82-92 Camaro for $149.95 that is 8 pieces and is supposedly all genuine GM parts. Problem is, they are out of stock right now and they said it could be up to a month before they have them again. I am painting my car in 2 weeks or less, and I want to remove my old seals and put new ones in after I'm done painting. Does anyone know someplace else that sells the T-Top seals at a reasonable price like that? Any help is appreciated, thanks
The problem with nextgen is that they don't sell all the pieces I need. The Classic Industries set has ALL the seals and the little rubber shields on the ends of the t-tops. Plus if you add up the price of all the pieces from the other sources, it's astronomical, and the local dealer isn't even sure if she can get all the seals anymore.
could always do what i do. mine is leaking up front right on my seat so i took it off and shoved a paper towel under it to get me by until i can afford to fix it
Frobozz,
What do you mean by ajusting the seat on the t-tops?Mine leak to and the seals look good (no cracks)figured leaked from stress from racing.
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86 IROC mods:T.E.S.,Flowmaster muffler
T.P.I.S. airfoil,ported plenum,March
pulleys,Accel 8.8wires,supercoil,ign.mod.
RAM AIR induction,gutted MAF,
B&M shift kit,3.73 rear gears,Accel afpr,Hypertech stage 2 chip,Random Tech.cat.,Lakewood lower control arms,Lakewood adj.panhard rod
"The more I learn about women,the more
time & money I spend on my IROC"
He's talking about removing the A pillar plastic moulding and the B pillar plastic moulding and loosening the phillips screws that hold the guide hole plates (can't remember the proper nomenclature name) and moving them down a tad, maybe an 1/8 of an inch, if that. Retighten the screws, and see how much it helps. Just don't move them down too much, a friend of mine caused his driver's side T-Top to crack while turning into his driveway after adjusting his down too far. Hope this helps.
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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Cyclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil
Veiw my car at:http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/TransAm.html
Kevin is right, DO NOT lower more than an 1/8 th in. if you have the glass tops. If you have the plexi glass you can get away with a bit more but not to much, the plexi glass will give a bit more, and if anything, SFC, and strut tower brace will help.
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86 IROC mods:T.E.S.,Flowmaster muffler
T.P.I.S. airfoil,ported plenum,March
pulleys,Accel 8.8wires,supercoil,ign.mod.
RAM AIR induction,gutted MAF,
B&M shift kit,3.73 rear gears,Accel afpr,Hypertech stage 2 chip,Random Tech.cat.,Lakewood lower control arms,Lakewood adj.panhard rod
"The more I learn about women,the more
time & money I spend on my IROC"
I've adjusted the a and b pillar adjusters, but what's wrong is the seals where the windows roll up are shot, and GM changed the outer flap thingy from rubber to hard plastic on the new seal kits. Is Classic Industries the only place that sells it as a KIT at a lower price than buying separate pieces?
I'm also in need of new weatherstripping. I also checked classics and heard the same story. I ended up buying them from GM. They were twice what classics wanted, but they had all the pieces.
try this link
have found these guys to be very helpfull and ***** has also http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/
they have most if not all that you need to fix (or at least get new rubbers)
I would try SOFTSEAL as well......I think the website is www.sofseal.com not sure though.
Another thing about the seals for the window and T-top area is that if you use something like a silcone rub like BlackMagic about once every two weeks, you should never have a problem again with them leaking, I've had my 92 RS w/ T-tops and have had it for awhile now and I have yet to have a single problem them leaking...
