I wanted to replace the NPT fitings on my engine and replace them with russell fittings and hoses. Yes I know they are expensive. My engine bay has some custom hose routing and the russell stuff might solve some issues. Question: How do you clamp a russell steel braided hose to the copper heater core inlet/outlet? Mark.

Why wouldn't you simply upgrade to silicone hoses? Exposed metal reinforcement braid is so old-school. You NEVER see it in a true high-performance or high-stress application, since it doesn't survive as well as internally reinforced hose - even if some people think it looks cool. Ask to see one of their 15,000 PSI hose assemblies. Then look at internally reinforced hoses. Parker, Gates, Imperial/Eastman, etc. make the GOOD stuff.

I am not looking for a particular "look", rather I need to clear some rather difficult paths for my hoses, and the russell fittings might do the trick ... granted at a high price.

I replace at least one heater hose per year due to my routing. Basically my TPI follows a street rod theme. I don't want to see wires or hoses, hence they are all routed down and under.

I disagree regarding point of high performance or high stress applications. Rather in these cases, you DON'T see hose clamps! You see AN fittings everywhere.

I don't want the braided hoses, or the look, just the pre-fab'd ends. The down side if the high priced, inflexible and difficult t clean briaded lines.

Agreed that Parker, Gates, etc. all make good stuff. But it is the AN fittings I am after, not the hoses.

Thanks for the honest reply. Always appreciated.

Mark

The Russle lines are attached by a rubber hose but the cover hides the connection. Some of the $high end$ connections actualy have a clamp built into the slip fitting instead of the cheap cover.

I understand how the russell lines and fitting work. I can make up the end that thread together, but I am confused how to "clamp" a very stiff braided line to a soft copper heater core pipe.

It makes me think you need to change to the russel rubber hoses for that connection.

I can't see how a hose clamp could compress the braided steel lines.

I don't think you can peel back the steel braid either ... and plus it would look like crap.

Mark.

If you're going under the engine, along frame members, etc., you may actually want to use pipe instead of hose, and only short pieces of silicone hose at the vibration points.