badbird88

I just finished changing my stock intake out for the Holley Projection Intake..biggest pain in the rear but I can tell someone how to do it quickly now and all extra parts needed for the swap...but that can come later.

I went to turn my car over for the first time last night after the intake swap and now I can't get my timing set right! I got the distributer off where it was suppose to go back in the motor at so we (my dad and I) had one person put there finger just inside the #1 spark plug hole and then bump the engine over until the piston was at top dead center (blows air out the hole) and the timing mark was at 0 also. Then we pulled the distributer up and rotated it to where the rotor button was pointing at the #1 cylinder. I think it's still off or I screwed the distributer up when I accidently dropped it 2 days ago. The car will idle but very rough and no matter which way we turn it and how far, it still won't correct it.

YES I know about the EST plug, had lots of experience with it when I first swapped motors 4 years ago. I checked all vacumn lines and still can't figure out why it's acting up. Only code being set is 42 which is due to the EST plug being dissconnected.

I have the brake booster vacumn line connected to the vacumn port at the back of the manifold and I am using a new EGR valve from a 1978 350 Chevy PU. I didn't change anything during the swap, just unplugged and unbolted parts. I took pictures before to make so I could make sure I plug vacumn lines back up correctly. All the spark plug wires are on the cap in their correct locations and no adjustments were made to the TB.

Could the distributor still be off a notch? I'm going to change the control module out for an ACCEL module that I've had sitting around since I replaced my distributor 3-4 years ago and never put the ACCEL unit back in.

Any ideas??

------------------
1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.

1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip

2000 Kawasaki KX 125

merf23

i would set the timing with a timing light. At least youll be able to rule that out as the problem. Also connect a vacuum gauge to check for leaks. Sorry but i dont know much about the electronics aspect of the computer controls so i cnat make any suggestions there. From the way you describe your procedure, it sounds like something simple(?)

badbird88

I'm using a timing light, you have to have the distributor in the engine correctly first though so you can get the timing close and the nuse the timing light to fine tune it.

By the way I have it sitting around 8 degrees now in case anyone was wondering.

come on guys this should be something simple.

[This message has been edited by badbird88 (edited October 20, 2000).]

badbird88

anyone?

CamaroZ_85

maybe you want to try dropping the dist in again, its possible to be off a tooth. when you first drop it in, the rotor should point a little before #1 wire position (clouter-clockwise). the rotor should face #1 when the distributor base has contacted the intake. its tricky at first but you get the hang of it after you do it a few times. also make sure the rotor didnt get cracked or anything when you dropped it

------------------
350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

Engineboy

If you have it timed at 8 degrees (check it with a light to be sure) than its in right. It doesn't matter where you start #1 from or what angle/direction the dist is pionted, ALL that matters is that #1 is right with the rotor and TDC when you drop it. You can't be a tooth off and have the timing set at 8 degrees.


I would look into the fact that you dropped it on the floor first. Check it out real good.

------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited October 21, 2000).]

Kevin S

Here's a guess...check the TB gasket.
When I replaced all the gaskets in my rs(the first time)I didn't get the TB gasket positioned right.I had a huge gap between the plenum and TB that was sucking massive amounts of air.The only way I could keep it running was by pumping the gas pedel.Alot of times that didn't work either.I thought I really screwed it up!
A friend noticed the gasket had droped out of one side.Replaced it and it run smoothly. I impressed the hell out of myself that night!
Check for maybe a small crack in the gasket or even loose bolts.
Either way I'm sticking with a vacumm leak on this one.

------------------

http://www.camaroforum.com/
http://v6fbody.com/
http://nethirdgen.org/
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/tristatecamaro

[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited October 21, 2000).]

badbird88

well I found the problem. I started plugging vacumn lines one by one until I got the idle to clear up and it turned out to be the brand new EGR valve! It's acting like a reverse flow EGR. The solenoid was keeping it open at idle with the stock hose routing. I swapped the hoses around on the solenoid and it cleared it up! still unsure if it is opening at the right times or if this is allowing the EGR to operate correctly at all, but I don't get any code 32 while driving down the road so I'm happy!

Thanks for the reply, I had a feeling it was a vacumn leak b/c it would crank up and idle fine for 5 seconds then the solenoid would kick in and it would sound like crap.