Jester

The part number is 134-7101. They seem as though they will stick up farter than the stock ones did. I have tall valve covers, so I'm not worried about that, but I am worried about being able to screw the rockers down far enough to get proper valve lash. I have Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers with locknuts.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

AlkyIROC

I think you need 134-7104 if you want to use roller rockers.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley

Vader

Jester,

Unless the studs are fully-threaded and have no hex shoulder to screw them in, you'll most likely have to mill the stud bosses flat. You'll have to go even deeper with the mill if you plan to use guide plates.

If you don't mill the bosses, the valve train geometry could be all wrong. The pushrod length required to provide adequate rocker clearance would place the rocker at a completely incorrect angle to actuate the valves, and could cause stud-binding of the rockers.

If you want to get away without milling the stud bosses, look into Mr. Gasket P/N 1076 studs. They are fully threaded and have no hex shoulder to interfere with rocker seating. They are essentially the same dimensions as stock studs, but are threaded 7/16-14 at the lower end and are a bit longer on the upper end. They thread into the head by using jam nuts to torque down the stud. (LocTite is a good idea here.) These studs cannont be used to hold down push rod guide plates, however.

Oh, yeah. About $26.00 US.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
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Jester

Thanks Vader. I think I'll just get different studs..liek the ones you suggested. I'm not sure who makes the ones I saw..ede pointed them out to me in Jegs. Thats pretty much what I asked for from the guy at PAW in the first place, but I didn't have the PN and he was an idiot. be easier, and cheaper, than milling the heads.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

AlkyIROC

Oh. I didn't realize your heads still had the pressed in studs. Yes. The stud boss needs to be machined down to use the ARP type studs. The cheaper way is to use what is known as replacement studs as Vader suggested. These are just a plain stud, threaded on both ends (different threads). The old press in studs are pulled out. The hole is tapped and the replacement studs are screwed in. Precision alignment may not be perfect with this solution but it will give you a stud that won't pull out from higher spring pressures but won't let you use guide plates.