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I'm currently running the comp cams Xe274 cam (flat tappet), and i'm considering swapping to roller this winter. I'm eying up the XR 282 right now. It's specs seem to be pretty close to the xe274, only its roller.
How does the XR 282 compare to the xe274? Any problems with power brakes? choppy idle? What all do i need to convert from flat tappet to roller? I know i'll be needing new springs (any thoughts on which?)
I run trick flow heads with a performer rpm intake and a demon 750 carb, its got a t-56 and 3.89 gears backing it up. Only bottleneck i can still see right now is the edelcrap headers...
give me your thoughts opinions and experiences on this cam.
I made that exact cam swap in my 400 once. Went from the XE274 to the XR282.
The XR282 is a whole lot more cam. The specs don't really tell the whole story; the valves open much faster, so they're much farther open for the entire time that they're open.
It definitely lowered the vacuum and resulted in a rougher idle.
I had no problems with vacuum, or power brakes; but that was in a 400. Might be a bit different in a 350.
Use Comp 986 springs, and the retainers and all to go with them.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Originally posted by RB83L69 Use Comp 986 springs, and the retainers and all to go with them.
If you want to spin it 5800 or over, get the 987 springs. I had valve float with the 986 & a XR276HR cam. Went to 987's on Comp's reccomendation & the float went away.
what lifters are you running? I was looking in summit, and it looks like a have a few options...between vertical bars, and horizontal bars with spings. which ones are better?
I was planning on spinning this thing to around 6200rpm, so i guess i'll be going with the 987's.
RB:, you don't by chance remember how much this whole swap ended up costing you with all the nickel and dime stuff do ya?
Eric
EDIT: i'm kinda lookin for a drastic change, so i'm thinking this should work well. The xe274 has a tame idle by my standards, and as long as the power brakes are still gonna work, then it sounds like i'm in business. I"m also thinking about porting the heads while it's off. Never done it before, so i'm gonna be taling to trick flow, and other people who've ported heads to see what i need to do to these things to get some flow... (feel free to give your thoughts on that as well)
__________________ Delaware, Maryland and Virginia people come check out First State Fbodythis actually works now
Can't really say how much that one cost; I didn't pay for most of it, and it was part of a larger project besides.
I did, however, buy all the roller stuff to go in another engine fairly recently, as part of a complete rebuild; it ran about $575-600 IIRC, as opposed to the usual $200 or so for a complete flat tappet setup.
The vertical bar kind are fine for the street. The horizontal bar kind with the lift springs is for people who might need to do a quick cam swap, and aren't running a rev kit, and want to avoid spending the extra time disturbing the intake.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
I have that cam in my 406 and my friend has it in his pontiac 455. Its a neat cam, the power band is really good, it sounds like a prostreet car at idle. Vacuum is about 10 inchs and thats it. Definatly do with the better spring, rollers need it.
ok, i'm adding this all up right now...and i'm up to 630 bucks, not including lifters!??
Parts list so far:
Cam..................$240
Springs..............$85.........(pn 987)
Locks.................$26.........(pn 613)
Retainers..........$134.95...(pn 730)
Seals.................$25..........(pn 503)
Fuel pump rod...$14
Pushrods...........$102.69...(pn 7609)
this doesn't include the 300 or so dollars the lifters are gonna cost. Does this sound right, or am i missing a loop hole? This is gonna cost almost $1000 by the time i'm done with it.
heck, i just realized I have the 288xtreme roller cam The 282 would be good in a 350 with a good set of heads.
Yes it is expensive. The lifters are the worst part. For the pushrods, use trck flow 's instead of comp cams, trick flows are 85 bucks thats what I went with, actually, i have a set of 7.3in pushrods for sale, I never sent them back to summit so if you need them let me know. What reatiners are you using, that sounds awful high. Comp cams is really proud of there stuff, shop around to see if you can find better prices.
goto summitracing.com and search this part # CCA-K12-432-8
For $875 you get all thats pictured.
I bought a k-kit for my mechanical roller, its nice to get it all at once, matched. Anytime you are retrofitting to a roller cam assume it will cost $1000, and youll be safe.
Last edited by SweetS10v8; 11-16-2003 at 08:07 PM.
i looked at it, but it didn't really give any info on what comes with the kit...looking at that pic, those lifters won't work, meaning i still have to spend the 300 dollars on lifters...
It comes with the lifters, it comes with everything even the timing chain....everything!(-pushrods)
that is not the "exact kit" you see in the pic. Everything you get is the correct part #'s for the cam you order. The picture is just a representation, lol
i understand thats not the actual picture, all i'm saying is that i see no specification as to whether that kit comes with regular roller lifters or retro rollers...nor does it say which springs it comes with
Only problem i see with that, is the kit comes with the 986 springs, which as mentioned above have trouble with high rpms, which i where this thing is gonna live. i need the 987 springs....wonder if comp makes a kit with the 987's instead of the 986's...
Of course, I was running fairly lightweight valves, and careful and correct spring setup. Other situations might be different.
From my days of doing contract engineering work for Comp when I lived in Memphis, I can't feature that they would package a kit that simply doesn't work. They have dyno cells (2 of them) where they run engines with their products installed, to verify that they work according to spec.
Incidentally, the 986s have higher seat pressure at nominal installed height than 987s do; which would tend to control valve float better where it most often ocurs, namely at the seat (valves bounce off the seat). "Valve toss", or float at max lift, is much less common.
__________________ "So many Mustangs, so little time..."
I have the cam that your thinking about buying in my 350 with all the goodies, heads,airgap,750DP, etc.etc. No valve float, heads beyond 6200rpms with no issue's,I keep it around 64000 at shift points, nice IDLE, vacuum is a non issue.
I'm thinking about going with a mech. roller set up pretty soon and will sell you this came for a good price, it has maybe 2,000 street miles on it.. I have the cam card somewhere, and I'll find it for you.
The 282 would be good in a 350 with a good set of heads. 
