bobdole369

This car has sat for quite a while (more than a year). Before it sat, it had a pinhole in the radiator (fixed), and managed to strip the gears on the timing chain (fixed). I just put new plugs, replaced dist cap/rotor/coil/pickup coil/ign module. And of course while doing the plugs and the cap, I managed to get 8, 6, and 3 all mixed up somehow, and a few days of no-start, and replacing batteries, and a starter (warrantied luckily ) I figured that out hi hi.. Currently the car starts right up, but doesn't want to rev above around 3000, (pops, backfires in the exhaust, and bogs down.) Timing seems OK, get a nice bright blue-white spark on number 2 but there seemed to be more carbon fouling than usual for a spark plug thats only run for 10 minutes or so. The car will idle, but it seems like it really wants to stall all the time. Poor throttle response, it takes a few seconds to "catch up" after I press the throttle. Any insight? I'm going to pull the plugs one by one and replace if fouled. NOTE: At one point this car caught fire after somebody plugged a hole with "QuikSteel" "that didn't look like it should be there" on the large pipe that come up from around the exhaust manifold (I'm thinking it had something to do with the emissions.) The owner drove right after and the quiksteel ignited, all the oil and gunk around the exhaust and plugs and the TB's caught and well......... fire dept..... etc. The owner took it to a shop that got it running again but it hasn't been the same since.

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TheMysticWizard

I'd say double and triple check your plug wires, make sure they are in the right order and all correctly seated down.

Check around for vaccum leaks, make sure all vaccum lines are not cracked and indeed hooked up.

When you had timing chain issues, are you sure that none of the valves were bent/broken? Could a rocker arm stud have busted off?

__________________



Mods: TB Bypass, Jeg's RedHot Coil and Ignition Module, K&N Air Filter, Ported Plenum, 3" cat back with Flowmaster Muffler dual 2-1/2" Out the back with Chrome Y tips, 180* thermostat, Manual fan switch, Accel 8mm Super Stock Plug Wires.

Soon: Project 383 TPI nearing compleation... Forged Pistons and Rods, AFR 195 cc Heads, TPIS BigMouth Majorly ported and matched, Edelbrock Runners, Edelbrock Headers, TPIS zz9 Copy Cam, LS1 Injectors, Custom Prom, 2400 Stall Converter, TransGO Shift Kit, and new almost everything with the engine. Lets hope I push 300+rwhp and 400+rwtq.

Best 1/4: 15.923@84.59 w/ 2.298 60ft.

bobdole369

Quite possible. The car just wouldn't start while out at the mall, and had it towed home. I tried starting it for quite a long time before I got some good tips here that pointed to it. When I replaced it about 1/2 of the teeth on the gears were stripped off.

As for vacuum lines, I replaced the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid, but the EGR solenoid looks like its literally going to fall to pieces. Just touching it is risky. I don't think it works at all, the top half of it is just sitting there. (looking for a part now...) I also put the line from the primary TB to the air cleaner/cold start diverter, even tho I believe that whole system is rusted shut. Better to plug these lines to preserve vacuum for now? I do plan to get the solenoid. I know EGR would make it idle funny.

Confuzed1

I'd agree with that. I'd guess your EGR is non-functional by what you're saying anyway. I'd unplug the wire connector too and tape it up just to get those out of the picture. Maybe even block off the EGR, in case it's stuck open. Never caused a Check Engine light on my car.

Triple check the firing order if you hav'nt already....

Did you put a stock timing chain on, or aftermarket?? Check your cap and rotor too for any arcing....

__________________
GSMC, USN-RET. 1998 - '83 Camaro Z28HO -400 SBC (+.040), Edelbrock E-Force MP122 Supercharger, Pro Systems 750 carb, Dart 200cc Iron Eagles, Scat forged crank, Comp NX276HR cam, SRP forged pistons, G Force T-5 w/Pro-5.0 shifter, Moser 9" w/Detroit True-trac posi, UMI TQ arm, Lakewood LCA's, Edelbrock TES headers, Hooker SuperComp Catback, Griffin aluminum rad,
Also: '04 Vibe 1.8 Ecotec, 2000 S10 4.3L 4WD, 1990 Cav. Z24 3.1L., 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T Hemi

bobdole369

Several plugs fouled beyond recognition

I replaced them all, and checked every plug for spark. Same good blue white bright spark on all 8. However, same results, I had a few other problems (alternator adjust bolt stripped fixed with a straight thru bolt, washer, and nut on the other side.)
I rechecked all the plugs and found severe fouling and no spark on several, (but if I put a good one in, it sparks right up) . I'm guessing compression test is next right? Looking like a head job and maybe tear it down all the way to replace all the rings if its not the valves doing it.
Seems like 3 cylinders it fires on, but doesn't ignite, then it gets fouled till theres no spark.

onebinky

When waas the last time you did a complete tuneup? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs?

Did it ever run right after you did the timing chain? Valve timing could be off.

Are the plugs oil fouled, or fuel fouled?

If you pull the vacuum line going to the pressure regulator, does any fuel come out or it? If the diaphram is ruptured, it will leak fuel right into the manifold.

__________________

1987 IROC-Z 305/5 speed
------------
-305 block .040" (312 cid), Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, stock rods; shot peened/polished with arp rod bolts
-Hedman shorties and Y pipe
-Hooker 3" Catback minus cat
-Edelbrock Vic Jr converted to MPFI; gasket matched, mild port and polish
-Holley 750cfm throttle body (modified)
-26lb/hr delphi fuel injectors
-Comp Cams Hyd. Roller cam 262hr-12
-Holley Annihilator CD ignition
-Holley LaserShot Pro coil
-Summit 8mm spiral pro wires
-Fluidamper 7" balancer
-Cast aluminum timing cover
-March Billet underdrive pulleys
-7730 ECM conversion and DIY PROM burning using TunerProRT and PPII
-World Products SR Torquer heads, full port and polish, Manley stainless 1.94/1.50 valves, high flow valve job
-GM 3.23 gears
-T5 swap
-Centerforce dual friction clutch
-VDO and autogage instruments in custom acrylic gauge panel
-Minor weight reduction including: A/C removed, smog removed, front sway bar removed, undercoating removed, stereo removed, most carpet padding removed, and wonder bar removed.
-255gph walbro in-tank fuel pump
-edelbrock fuel rails



PARTING OUT, CHECK OUT MY THREADS ON THE CLASSIFIEDS BOARD

bobdole369

Complete tune up was done right around the same time the timing chain was done. (didn't time it tho)

Car ran OK before it sat for a year. After that is around the time the timing chain went, and it ran well enough to drive (but still not well enough as it did before.)

Plugs are fuel and carbon fouled.

There is also an exhaust manifold leak on the driver side. Smoke comes from there and comes out the hood as well as the tailpipe, (mostly black from the tailpipe, whitish blue from the hood)

I'll check the vacuum line in a bit

bobdole369

Ran like absolute crap after replacing the plugs. Ran so bad that it won't go anywhere in gear, it just stalls...

Unfortunately now it got to sit for another few months.

I discovered 3 plug wires which were mixed up, and now I can get it to start everytime, but I have to lay on the gas. Unfortunately now those plugs are fouled and not working again... Oh the joy of taking them out again

BRobinson

Is it carbureted or Tbi/Tpi? And does it have an O2 sensor? If it does, the O2 sensor would try to compensate for the exhaust leak, and run it real rich, fouling the plugs, and in turn fouling itself pretty quick

bobdole369

Well, it's Crossfire, so I'm not positive which one that falls into, and yes, it does have an O2 sensor, and <smacks forehead> for not thinking of that.... LOL

BRobinson

just make sure you disconnect the ECM for 30 seconds to clear out any trouble codes that may linger around