Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
I think I've heard of misting water into the carb to loosen carbon deposits in the engine. Not sure I'd necessarily try it though. I KNOW that I wouldn't pour water into the carb.
I use a mister. Like the kind you can spray on your hair. Has the same effect as a blown head gasket. It cleans the cylinder. Use at your own risk. To much water can cause hydrolock which will bend a rod. That's why I use a mister.
i was told it would loosen carbon on an engine thats been sittin for awhile and im like yeah right,the best youll probably get outta that is a spun bearing,why do i have a black dot on the chev emblem of all my posts?
Most people will take a paper cup of water, and rev the engine to about 2k-2500. Pour the water in just fast enough that the rpms drop about 500, and you are fine. Just dont stick the garden hose in the carb.
If you're going to "MIST" your carb... be sure to have the RPMs up around 2K when you do it.
I wouldn't go crazy misting it... a few short blasts w/ a spray bottle of water is PLENTY.
Because carb cleaner burns, its pretty much just toluene.
__________________ LT1 headed LG4 305 beast! Comp Solid lifter XS-262-10S, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 10.2:1, Holley 4160 600cfm, modded Weiand 7502 intake to fit LT1 heads____ Custom cylinder head cooling. Weiand 8208 Short Water Pump____TH-350 3 series 3.73 with 2 series posi and spacer____ Hedman Hedders 1 5/8 headers and Y-pipe 3in Exhaust, Dynomax 3" Bullet muffler ____Moroso Ultra 40 Wires ACCEL HEI Super Coil ____Competition Engineering 3120 Bolt-on SFC's____Homemade: Wonderbar, solid tie rod sleeves, Aluminum LCA and Panhard Rod with spherical rod ends, alternator and PS bracket, Strut tower brace, and Decoupling torque arm with telescoping link.
3000lbs
"The liberty of a democracy is not safe if the people tolerate the growth of private power to a point where it becomes stronger than their democratic State itself. That, in its essence, is Fascism - ownership of government by an individual, by a group or by any controlling private power."
-FDR
"If this were a dictatorship, it'd be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."
-- President George W. Bush
During a photo-op with Congressional leaders on 12/18/2000.
so u're saying to help clean out all the carbon, to spray some water in the engine while it's at 2k rpms and that will be fine???or is this something that is done to a car that's been sitting in some barn for years?
Lightly misting it in wont help much as itll just be water vapor when it gets to the cylinders. The idea is that the liquid water hits the hot deposits and flashes over to steam, blasting apart the crap in the process. Ive done it out of desperation on old motors with detonation problems. Pour enough water in with the motor at a brisk 2500 rpm so it actually makes it in and breaks up the carbon, but not so much that it hydrolocks the motor. The last time I did it didnt help much as instead of detonation, large chunks of carbon that where broken loose made their way back through the EGR and caused all sorts of problems when they blocked the valve open.
seems to me like it would bog it. how did the lines connect? I couldnt see it makeing that much of a performance gain, unless there was some nitrous going in with it.
It's not a very good way to make more power, and it only works for a very short period of time, when you want to take over somebody or something. And it's not good for the engine, given that water expands a lot when it turns to steam, it gives a preformace gain, but it break things in the long term... Oh, and I have no idea how he rigged it up, I have just heard of the thing...
are u serious? in this same post they said putting water in the carb with the rpm at 2500 it would bring it down 500 or so. which means water bogs the engine down. i don't see any way that water in your carb would give any kind of boost. steamed water does not expand faster than exploding gas, no way could that boost power!
In the mid '80s, Eldebrock (or Mallory - I forget who) came out with a water injection kit. I know because I had one on my '70 Challenger 318. The 318 had high compression, and the water injection helped cool the engine under power, allowing higher timing with crappy gas (compared to leaded high octane in the past).
It had a water tank, tubing, mounted to the inside of the air cleaner with squirters pointing into the carb. It had an eletric control module that would kick in the water pump under load (it had dials to set the parameters for your engine).
Guess it wasn't a big hit, because they are no where to be found now.
I wouldn't mess with water. GM makes a Top Engine Cleaner that you pour down the carb slowly and it breaks all the carbon loose( as you watch all your neighbors come out thinking your car is on fire as the tailpipes spit huge clouds of black smoke out).
I know one guy who rigged a windshield wash pump to his carb. It gave him an extra boost when he wanted, though I dont recommed it. But it works!
Its called water injection. Do a search for it on the Power Adders board and Google to find out the performance benefits.
I'm thinking of running a water injection setup on my new 11:1 motor so i can easily run on pump gas.
__________________ LT1 headed LG4 305 beast! Comp Solid lifter XS-262-10S, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 10.2:1, Holley 4160 600cfm, modded Weiand 7502 intake to fit LT1 heads____ Custom cylinder head cooling. Weiand 8208 Short Water Pump____TH-350 3 series 3.73 with 2 series posi and spacer____ Hedman Hedders 1 5/8 headers and Y-pipe 3in Exhaust, Dynomax 3" Bullet muffler ____Moroso Ultra 40 Wires ACCEL HEI Super Coil ____Competition Engineering 3120 Bolt-on SFC's____Homemade: Wonderbar, solid tie rod sleeves, Aluminum LCA and Panhard Rod with spherical rod ends, alternator and PS bracket, Strut tower brace, and Decoupling torque arm with telescoping link.
3000lbs
"The liberty of a democracy is not safe if the people tolerate the growth of private power to a point where it becomes stronger than their democratic State itself. That, in its essence, is Fascism - ownership of government by an individual, by a group or by any controlling private power."
-FDR
"If this were a dictatorship, it'd be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."
-- President George W. Bush
During a photo-op with Congressional leaders on 12/18/2000.
Originally posted by ME Leigh Its called water injection. Do a search for it on the Power Adders board and Google to find out the performance benefits.
I'm thinking of running a water injection setup on my new 11:1 motor so i can easily run on pump gas.
just look up WILLIE...hes got 3 big *** injectors mounted on his TB for his blown LB9
Originally posted by dmp7777777 id still be leary,after all arent we all concerned with keeping h2o out of the gas????
Quote:
Originally posted by MrDude_1
H20 (aka water) is a normal by product of combustion. its already there, and as long as you dont add so much that you hydrolock the cyl, you're fine.
so theres already water there.
ok, so lets think of WHY we dont want water in the gas.
short version:
you need the same amount of fuel.. water cant REPLACE the fuel, but it can be there in addition to the fuel.
Originally posted by MrDude_1 so theres already water there.
ok, so lets think of WHY we dont want water in the gas.
short version:
you need the same amount of fuel.. water cant REPLACE the fuel, but it can be there in addition to the fuel.
Gasoline and water cannot mix, so the motor isnt running off the water obviously..the water is heavier so when its introduced into the cylinder, it lays on the top of the piston...the fuel ignites and the pressure/heat cause the water to steam clean...Too much water or not enough heat will cause a hydrolock..you can hydrolock a motor with fuel aswell becasue its a liquid and it cannot be compressed...
pouring water into someones tank is for more efficient then sugar
Originally posted by f-crazy Gasoline and water cannot mix, so the motor isnt running off the water obviously..the water is heavier so when its introduced into the cylinder, it lays on the top of the piston...the fuel ignites and the pressure/heat cause the water to steam clean...Too much water or not enough heat will cause a hydrolock..you can hydrolock a motor with fuel aswell becasue its a liquid and it cannot be compressed...
pouring water into someones tank is for more efficient then sugar
i should be leaving for lunch, but i HAD to reply.
correct. it doesnt mix.
nothing in a cylinder will be laying ANYWHERE. its just mist in the cyl, or even liquid, but its not laying anywhere.
true, you can (and i have) hydroloc a motor with gasoline.
and yea, the heat from combustion makes the water turn to steam. the steam both cleans and expands.
random thought about it: its taking some of the wasted heat energy and using it to turn the water into steam.. that in turn expands and adds more pressure.
in anycase, the reason water stops a motor from running is because it doesnt mix. its heavier.. aka it sinks to the bottom of the tank.
the pickup is at the bottom. so water goes to the carb.
it sits on the bottom of the bowl, and the jets only get water.. and the car doesnt run on just water.
in EFI, its spraying the water. so you get less or no fuel, and that keeps it from running right.
im aware of this... after all.. thats WHY im doing it.. its also what that black stuff coming out of the tail pipe is.
where do you thinjk these "chunks" of carbon are?
am aware of this myselfbut breaking loose carbon on an engine with lets say 170,000 miles might night be to your advantage when you break loose those large deposites on your valves and drop them down onto your pistons
__________________ •"I work on my chevy because I want to ..I work on your ford because you pay me too"------THEGENERAL
•"If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?"-------George Carlin
•There's a place for all of gods creatures .....right next to the Potatoes & Gravy!
•R.I.P. Johnny Carson, 1925 - 2005 You will be missed.......
•"Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience".....METALICAMARORS
ok i only have 69k on my engine and sorta wanta try this. like how much water r we talking about??? like a cup of water over a 60 sec period of time. like if i could get a correct procedure then i might try it. of course i'm still baffled about water in the carb being a GOOD idea...of course it is a controlled amount...
yeah it wont hurt anything all it will do is steam out all the carbon build up and blow it out the exhaust just dont go over board with the water and use it in spurts not a continious stream
__________________ •"I work on my chevy because I want to ..I work on your ford because you pay me too"------THEGENERAL
•"If it's true that we are here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?"-------George Carlin
•There's a place for all of gods creatures .....right next to the Potatoes & Gravy!
•R.I.P. Johnny Carson, 1925 - 2005 You will be missed.......
•"Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience".....METALICAMARORS
Originally posted by thegeneral am aware of this myselfbut breaking loose carbon on an engine with lets say 170,000 miles might night be to your advantage when you break loose those large deposites on your valves and drop them down onto your pistons
i dont understand your post at all.
just FYI, the only "worry" you might have is the carbon being on the valve seat when it goes to close.
but keep in mind, if you have enough carbon in the chamber to "chunk" or anything like that, then the engine would be running like crap anyway.. lol.
know what happens when it gets on the valve seat? almost nothing... minimal valve wear at best.
you arnt going to distroy your motor with carbon chunks, if thats what you're trying to imply.
Originally posted by chio987 ok i only have 69k on my engine and sorta wanta try this. like how much water r we talking about??? like a cup of water over a 60 sec period of time. like if i could get a correct procedure then i might try it. of course i'm still baffled about water in the carb being a GOOD idea...of course it is a controlled amount...
take a cup of water, and pour it in.
the engine will bog a lil bit, just give it more gas... obviously dont pour enough in to make the engine run rough, just enough so theres a lil bog.
you can keep pouring it in slowly, in a continious stream.. as if you're pouring slowly.. just pretend you're filling a cup to the max and you're going slow because its almost full.. somthing like that.
i would actually reccomend agienst pouring and stoping and pouring and stopping.. on the chance that you splash too much in there and it stalls.
think about the volume of the cyl at TDC... multiply that by 8. then divide that by two if you have a dual plane since you only access one side of the motor at a time.. then take that number and divide by 2 since a 4 stroke motor only does a intake stroke every other time.
now think about this... at 1200 RPM (and im usually higher then that when i do this) you have 20 revs a second. of thoes, half are intake... so 10 revs a second.
take that displacement you had above, and multiply it by 10.
then look at how little you pour in one second.
unless you're a idiot who is SQUEEZING a gallon jug, forcing a bunch of water in while at really low RPM, theres no way in hell you're going to lock that motor.
obviously, that much water is not needed... actually, if you're doing it over time, like water injection, a small amount will do.
while "cleaning" the motor, a larger amount is needed because you dont want to be there all day. but for a factor of saftey, just pour it in slowly, and you'll be fine.
Originally posted by ljnowell Most people will take a paper cup of water, and rev the engine to about 2k-2500. Pour the water in just fast enough that the rpms drop about 500, and you are fine. Just dont stick the garden hose in the carb.
ok, so the only other thing not covered is..should the car be hot or cold. and i'm guessing that i don't want the water to go in the secondaries, right? or won't it matter
Originally posted by chio987 ok, so the only other thing not covered is..should the car be hot or cold. and i'm guessing that i don't want the water to go in the secondaries, right? or won't it matter
since you're cracking the throttle open with no load, the secondarys wont be open... i usually pour it down the primarys.
some on one side, some on the other.....
i suppose you could push on the rear linkage and make the secondarys open and pour it down there too....
Water injection has been around for a very long time. It was used on the old piston radial aircraft engines so they could use more supercharger boost at takeoff and develop more power w/o detonation, which is instant death on those engines. They used a mix of water and alcohol in their ADI systems. Small amounts of water/alky injected/misted into the intake system during high power operation helps cool the engine and raises the effective octane of the gas, which reduces the tendency to detonate. With water injection they were able to get over 3000 hp out of an R-2800, as an experiment. In actual aircraft use they limited the power to lower levels for reliability reasons. I think water injection was used on some R-3350s as well.
You can also inject more water, which will clean the crap out of the chambers. If you put in too much water too fast, you will hydrolock the engine which breaks rods.
I heard of a guy who had a stationary engine used to run some machine, and they built a water injector for it using an old can, a funnel and some copper tubing. The tube was crimped to limit the water flow to a slow dribble, which was dropped directly into the carb's throat.
A little water into the engine's throat is a good thing, a lot of water is death.
well i just tried it...and nothing....the engine was warm and i had maybe a lil more than a 1/4 cup and i had it at 2k and slowly started to pour the water in (not quite a solid strem and not full drips) it did bog down a lil here and there but no black crap came out the tail pipes.....
Originally posted by chio987 well i just tried it...and nothing....the engine was warm and i had maybe a lil more than a 1/4 cup and i had it at 2k and slowly started to pour the water in (not quite a solid strem and not full drips) it did bog down a lil here and there but no black crap came out the tail pipes.....
you didnt use enough. try a couple of cups. just do it slowly.
Quote:
Originally posted by thegeneral nope never did imply that
but thanks for asking
what were you trying to imply? it looks like you're disagreeing with him for no reason.
edit: This is MrDude_1s brother. I thought I was under my name.
Originally posted by thegeneral what i am trying to IMPLY is simply its not to your advantage to do this to a very high mileage engine that is all ...
you guys need to relax and quit thinking everyone is trying to flame you or something
why?
the only engines that need this are high mileage engines.... or any other engine that has excessive carbon build up... either from burning alot of oil, or from slow buildup over time.
i dont look at anything anyone says here as a flame... i am looking at it as mis-info though... answer this then:
WHY are you implying its not to your advantage to do this to a high mile motor?
i don't know about anyone else but i'd like to know more about this....maybe even some how-to type info like how much water most people use, i've seen pour and spray in the carb and some taking 10-30 mins... Red Devil i read those threads u posted, if i missed something let me know, but they seemed just like this thread where no one gives real instructions and are mostly people saying that it will/won't work....i'd like to try it atleast, but don't want to hydro-lock my engine