Dad got carried away with the porting and cut into a water jacked approx .5" from the seat in the intake runner. The hole is approx 1/4" X 3/8". Can I JB Weld this? The heads are World Products S/R

damn..I guess you did go too far

no JB weld won't hold. I think your only hope is take it to a welding shop, and hope they can fix it.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

I know that JB doesn't have a chance in the exhaust... but this is in the INTAKE port... I think JB should hold...

It won't. as soon as the heads get hot, and expand, it'll crack the JB weld right off. Not to mention the abuse from the coolant on the other side.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

have it welded Man.

You may regret that JB later when you get the Motor All put together, and it gives up at 6 grand 1/8th in.


It shouldnt cost you Too Much.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

JB weld is rated for 700*F. The intake runner shouldn't get that hot.... and it is not affected by water. I have never tried JB on an internal part, but I am going to give it a try.

How much am I looking at for welding?

I think the JB should be solid... I am going to fill the water jacket where the hole is.. it will never come out

i've used steel mig on heads with good results, i'd try that, shouldn't take much to fix. man you must or really got carried away with the grinder to hit water.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

I'm not sure i this is correct or not, but.. It seems like the problem with JB weld wouldn't be it's temperature limit, it would be how quickly it expands. If the JB weld expands too much differently than the heads then it'll just pop off.

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

JB Weld is NOT a 700 degree rated epoxy, it's 300 degrees! In addition, the rate of expansion will probably cause it to fail, resulting in coolant being sucked into the engine, washing out your rings and causing the cylinder to wear out. Remember, there will be vacuum on ne side of the JB Weld, and 15 pounds of pressure on the other side in the coolant, for a net pressure differential of nearly 30PSI. One little leak, and you'll have a squirt-gun spraying straight into the cylinder.

Dont trust the JBWELD for this application. You've spent too much money on your engine to entrust it to a $2.95 bottle of epoxy. Spend the $40 and get it welded up properly. Think of it as tuition money for the lessons you learned.

Absolutley 100% DO NOT use JBweld! JBweld is an excellent product but not for an application like this. It will crack and break off the first time the head comes up to temperature.

Dude the temperature is not what affects the JBweld. It will stick to the metal just fine, only the metal will expand when hot, and literally pop the JBweld off. Also, it will be sucked into your cylinder, well you'll be lucky if it doesnt catch on the valve seat and really f*ck things up. If you go ahead and use JBweld i WILL laugh at you when your motor blows up...

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1983 Firebird
TH700R4 Auto
Small Block 400
LG4 ECM, Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc.
Soon to be non-computer.
Clarion Head Unit 45X4
2 Pioneer 400W 12" Subs
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is half an engine."

Johnny,

I would NOT NOT NOT use jb weld on the intake! I've been told that its much wiser to spend a little money now rather than a lot of money later! Sure, spend the 5 bucks on jb weld and later, your spending money on repairing a valve, dammaged piston, a scored cylinder wall, and possibly a new bottom end! Weld the heads! You will have no doubt of its strength, and you will have saved money in the long run!

Good Luck

Your dad broke it, make hime buy you new heads. =)

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N/A 406, TPIS Miniram, 58mm TB, 30lbs injectors, Custom Ground Elgin Cam, Ported TFS heads, SLP 1-3/4", & DFI computer.
11.70@117mph

It doesn't sound like the JB weld is a popular idea... I guess I will start looking into welding. I think I am just in a hurry to get this thing done. I will try and get a pic up, so you guys can tell me if it can be welded.

It would be a shame to cheap out now when everything else is perfect.

do Not JB weld it.........people say learn from other people's mistakes.....Ok I made that $3000 dollar mistake

The places I have called so far about welding, are reluctant to do it. They are afraid that the wall around the whole is too thin, and it will just make the hole bigger when they try and weld.

Johnny,

Find a place in your area that specializes in boat propeller repairs - they will have better-skilled welders who are more accustomed to controlling temnperature. Suggest that they use a TIG and nickel filler rod (they will probably already know this). A prop shop should have little trouble with the repair, but then again I haven't had benefit of seeing the damage, just the description.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

Can I braze it?

I wouldn't... It may crack. Try the nickel rod like vader suggested. Put the heads in an oven to warm them (Don't kill em though) or use a propane torch to warm the spot, have weld laid down in small amounts and tap it with a pick hammer immediatly. This stress relieves the weld. Then repeat until you have enough metal in. Then slowly let the head cool (No water...)

Then you could touch up with grinding again...

If you have a friend with a small stick welder you're in luck! Follow these directions and the repair will never give you headaches down the road.

JB Weld is good stuff... Maybe for an intake manifold... But not on heads.

they are right,
JB will eventually fail (probably real quick) and cost you more than a replacement head would've cost.

It is relitively inexpensive to weld aluminum now a days. If they were cast iron heads that is very expensive to weld. Hope your using a wimpy engine that you can just throw away after that "JB WELD" junk fails. A good machine shop can weld aluminum for you. And it will hold for life. Cost anywhere from as low as $25.00 to $ 150.00 depending on the time needed and the size of the weld needed.
Too much money? Get an estimate first or throw away your heads.
Tell Dad not to DRINK & GRIND !!!!

The problem is solved.... I am going to world products tomorrow and getting a replacement. Thank-you everyone for your help... I am glad you talked me out of the JB weld. I have too many good parts to risk something like that.

Im glad you made the wise decision.

shoot, I was hoping that you would race me after doing a JB weld on it... THats one that I know I could win...

Mike

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1989 RS.. Newly installed 350,bored out 30 over, Hypereutectic pistons, double roller cam, double roller timing chain, accel wires, blue streak cap and rotor, rapidfire plugs, chevy caprice 350 chip, 200* fan switch, 3 angle valve job.

I should get my dad to destroy things more often... people actually responded to my post!