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Old 02-10-2005, 05:59 PM   #1
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Engine whining noise

my engine has a whiny sound to it. I have replaced the alternator because it was bad not cause of the noise. The belt is maybe two years old. I haven't seen any cracking in it. I was thinking about removing the hood insulation to help the engine breathe a little cooler but with this whiny noise i am reluctant to remove it. Any ideas or suggestions? thanks in advance
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:20 PM   #2
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Maybe you could buy one of these mechanic's stethoscopes and poke it around on your engine/accesories to see where it is coming from.
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:28 PM   #3
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A length of heater hose can serve the same function. I have a 2' length of 5/8" hose for just this purpose. Probe around, try to pinpoint the origin.

Other than that, for lack of details, any guessing right now is a shot in the dark at best. It could be a bad water pump, could be lots of things. When does the noise happen, does it (the pitch) change with engine RPM at all? Vehicle speed? Anything?
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:03 PM   #4
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It gets higher pitched with higher rpm's. A kid thought that i had a supercharger on my car. I had to pop the hood in order to convince him otherwise. I geuss thats kinda cool but i'm sick of the noise. When i rev the engine i wanna be able to hear the exhaust, not that whining. I'll try probing around and see what i find out.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:06 PM   #5
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My guess would be the power steering pump.

It could also be the tensioner idler pulley bearings going...

The hose idea should narrow it down.

My bet is the PS.
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:23 PM   #6
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thanks for the help, i'll be sure to look there. That does make sense cause it is coming from that side of the car. What needs to be replaced? the whole pump?
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Old 02-11-2005, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by trueburton
thanks for the help, i'll be sure to look there. That does make sense cause it is coming from that side of the car. What needs to be replaced? the whole pump?
First make sure that it is not low on fluid.

If it is not, then yes the pump needs to be replaced.

You would need a power steering puller (you can rent them for free from autozone) and there are three torx bolts that hold it to the bracket.

You can replace just the pump if you want, however for $14 more you can get the whole thing including the resivour that surronds it.

here is a pic of just the pump part
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:33 AM   #8
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do the bleeding procedure before replacing the pump, just because it whines dosen't mean it's bad, it most probably just has air in the system that needs to be blead out, in all the time I've been working on cars I've never seen the bump go funtanally bad, just leak
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Old 02-11-2005, 05:31 PM   #9
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How do i bleed the pump?
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Old 02-11-2005, 06:11 PM   #10
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take the belt completely off all the accessories and run the engine (not too long, it will overheat without the water pump spinning. 30 seconds max). If the noise is gone then its one of the accessories. give them all a spin by hand to see if they sound funny. its normal for the ps pump to make "clicking" noises when you turn it by hand and change directions so keep that in mind. dont forget to check out the idler and tensioner too.
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Old 02-11-2005, 08:34 PM   #11
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to bleed the pump U have to jack the front of the car upand run the steering back and forth lock to lock, than start the car while it's jacked up and run it back and forth again, keep checking the fluid while your doing this and keep repeting it until it dosen't suck any more fluid down
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84 Z-28 in the prosess of re-build:
383, steel crank, forged pistons 4 bolt block .040 over
comp cams nitrous XP 288HR
Adv dur 288/315
Dur@.050 236/248
LSA 113
valve lift .520/.540
"quiet" gear drive
polished and ported trick flow 23* heads
comp P/N 26918-16 beehive valve springs
steel full roller rockers
edelbrock pro-flow 1000 CFM EFI port mached to heads
Venom 36 lb injectors
edelbrock nitrous sys, 150 shot
hooker 2210 1 3/4 pri headers
powermaster starter
powermaster alternator, 160 amp
'97 T-56 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 shifter
richmond 3.73 gears
eaton posi
spohn K-member
spohn "wonderbar"
spohn torque arm/crossmember
spohn lower control arms
spohn A-arms
spohn panhard bar
spohn subframe connectors
dual exauast, 3" up to cut outs
nordskog digital dashbord
trippel gauge pilar mount
digital fuel press.
digital nitrous pressure gauge
digital oil temp gauge

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Old 02-12-2005, 01:13 PM   #12
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Are you sure it's not the alternator? They will make a supercharger type noise if a diode goes bad (very common) and it will still work but not as well, unhook the plug in connection on the back of the alternator and start it back up and see if the noise goes away.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:40 PM   #13
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in the origanal post he said he R2'd the alternator, and that it wasen't the prob
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84 Z-28 in the prosess of re-build:
383, steel crank, forged pistons 4 bolt block .040 over
comp cams nitrous XP 288HR
Adv dur 288/315
Dur@.050 236/248
LSA 113
valve lift .520/.540
"quiet" gear drive
polished and ported trick flow 23* heads
comp P/N 26918-16 beehive valve springs
steel full roller rockers
edelbrock pro-flow 1000 CFM EFI port mached to heads
Venom 36 lb injectors
edelbrock nitrous sys, 150 shot
hooker 2210 1 3/4 pri headers
powermaster starter
powermaster alternator, 160 amp
'97 T-56 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 shifter
richmond 3.73 gears
eaton posi
spohn K-member
spohn "wonderbar"
spohn torque arm/crossmember
spohn lower control arms
spohn A-arms
spohn panhard bar
spohn subframe connectors
dual exauast, 3" up to cut outs
nordskog digital dashbord
trippel gauge pilar mount
digital fuel press.
digital nitrous pressure gauge
digital oil temp gauge

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Old 02-12-2005, 07:40 PM
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