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Old 06-19-2005, 09:53 PM   #1
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Eden, NY
Posts: 342
Car: 89 Trans am,87 GTA
Engine: TBI 350 HO Vortec heads,5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4's
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3.23, 9 Bolt 3.27

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Break in period?

anyone wanna gimme a break in plan? im finishing up my engine, its brand new, never started, never ran, all new.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:31 PM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Springfield,Mo
Posts: 688
Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
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Drive it reasonably,but don't baby it.IMO,it's silly to baby a fresh engine to 1000,1200,or whatever the "magic" number is.If it's gonna come apart,it's flaws will show at 1200 miles or 200.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:40 PM   #3
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There was a website about beating your engine so everything sealed properly. I believe it was a honda engine but it should be the same principle. Maybe search around, it's not to scientific but maybe someone can validate the info.
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:09 PM   #4
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 383 Fuel Injected
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This is directly from GM's website, it is for the ZZ572, but applies to all of their crate engines, and most all engines for that matter:

I would set your timing at whatever the car is supposed to be set at, also remember to use petroleum based oil for the break in period.


1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 20w50 racing motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.

2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Do this by using an engine oil priming tool. If you do not have one, one can be obtained through GM, part number 12368084. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. See short block instructions, GM part number 86962927, for further information.

3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.

4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to 20° before top dead center (BTDC) and the engine idle to 950 RPM (ZZ572/620) or 1200 RPM (ZZ572/720R) with a timing light and the vacuum disconnected and plugged. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.

5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.

6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing to 36°F at 4000 RPM.

7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.

8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 5000 RPM and 55MPH (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 RPM and 55 MPH (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20w50 racing motor oil (not synthetic) and a PF35L AC Delco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.

12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter
for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.

13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would only be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation.


ZZ572620 and ZZ572/720R Component Information Ignition System

The high energy ignition (HEI GM part number 8896l867, included with the ZZ572/620 is a self-contained ignition system that includes a magnetic pick up, a module, coil, rotor, and cap.
The HEI’s large diameter cap minimizes arcing and cross-firing between adjacent spark plug terminals. The cap’s male terminals provide a reliable, positive connection for the spark plug leads. However, the HEI’s large diameter cap may interfere with other under hood components in vehicles not originally equipped with HEI systems. Check for adequate clearance before installation. The HEI distributor incorporates a hardened (melanized) drive gear that is compatible with a cast iron cam gear. Use of a non-hardened distributor gear will result in excessive wear.
The HEI system requires a 12-volt power supply for proper operation. The HEI system should be connected directly to the battery with a 10 or 12 gauge wire through a high quality ignition switch. If you are installing an HEI in an early-model vehicle originally equipped with a point-type ignition, be sure to remove or bypass the resistor in the wiring harness to ensure the HEI receives 12-volts continuously. Use distributor connector package, GM part number 12167658, which includes connectors and wires for the HEI’s tachometer and 12-volt terminals.
The multiple spark discharge distributor, GM part number 10093387, included with the ZZ572/720R does not include a coil or ignition control module. Both must be purchased separately. This distributor requires the use of GM’s heavy duty ignition control, GM part number 10037378, and heavy duty ignition coil, GM part number 10037380, to function properly. Follow the installation instructions included with the ignition control and coil components.[b]

Last edited by pellmanm; 06-19-2005 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:42 AM   #5
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For a break in of an engine, I think Vader and Red Devil used to post up the same chart or PDF or something. As for break in time on the street, it would depend on how it was built in terms of tolerances, parts, tune, etc. Generally (< fu RD), you just take it easy rpm and load wise for the first ~500-1K miles while concurrently paying attention to what comes out of the oil pan.

edit: html owns me.
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Last edited by Black Bomber; 06-20-2005 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 07-07-2005, 11:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by firebirdjosh
There was a website about beating your engine so everything sealed properly. I believe it was a honda engine but it should be the same principle. Maybe search around, it's not to scientific but maybe someone can validate the info.
Maybe this is the website you are thinking about:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 07-07-2005, 11:22 PM
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