Hello, My Chilton doesn't really explain what's needed to change my motor mounts. Can anybody give me some tips on what's involved? I would like to do it myself but if it's too much hassel I will just give it to my mechanic. Also, I am thinking about upgrading to the urathane mounts. Anybody try these? PS: 87 IROC 350. (California car)

Hey guys, if this is in the wrong section let me know. But if anybody knows, please reply!

I saw a post not to long ago that read (change your motor mounts hear or best way ) do a search with any combo . When I didem a few years back it took all day , but not hard to do . I remember I had to tape the nut to the wrench to hold it in place . You will see what I mean .

Thanks bud. I think I found just what I feared. Sounds like it will be a big PITA. Here goes nothing lol.

Thanks again.

-Jason

If you go with the Urethane motor mounts prepare for a whole lotta shakin and engine noise as they transmit a great deal. I have gone with the rubber motor mounts and urethane trans mount and it is pretty streetable.

When you put the new mounts back in, it's impossible to get the nuts on from the underside of the upper bolts - but it's not that hard to put the bolts in from the bottom, if you have swivel adapters and extensions. And, it really makes no difference which way they go. Some will argue that if the nut comes loose, the bolt will fall out and leave you with no mount, but I'm sure you'll feel the massive vibrations from a bolt being loose LONG BEFORE anything actually falls out. I had a bad mount, and you'll know long before it "falls out".

thats a good idea , turning the bolts upside down. I did mine recently and while not impossible to get the nuts on it was a pain. I had to get creative with u joints and extensions etc. I went to moroso solid mounts.

There is some information out there (TGO?) about a "compromise" between polyurethane engine mounts and the rubber ones. Import guys have been doing this for some time, and I think there are people on these boards who do the same.

Get ahold of some 3M "Windo Weld." It appears just like silicone caulk in a cartridge, but it's urethane material, in thick liquid form. Use a caulking gun to fill the gaps in a regular old stock replacement rubber biscuit engine mount and get the best of both worlds: enough pliablilty to absorb engine vibrations, but enough stiffness to help "tighten" up the feel of the mounts. Think of the mount as a progressive rate coil spring: it's fairly pliable (streetable) under normal use, but when pushed, it has firmer material surrounding the rubber insert, bolstering it. I saw a write up by a guy with an MR2 and it seems to have been a worthwhile project. It's just my two cents but not everyone knows about this one. Good luck.

same.


It was a biotch to change my mounts for the swap, spent a good 2 hours fishing for nuts and bolts and rigging up custom tools to get in and at the end of the day all I had to say was "Good enough!"

it might be easier for you, you can drop the a-arm and do it that way, i didnt so it was super hard.