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I took my 350 in to have it acid diped, and bored .30 over.
it was already .40 over, ok, no prob, it wasnt realy in need of a bore then.
WITHOUT ASKING ME, they went to .60 over anyway...
now i cant make a 383 stroker motor out of it, and ive been told im gonna have cooling problems.
WTF do i do, i definatly plan to call on monday and see what they have to say for themselves, but what should i expect from them ??? should they replace my block ??
Well .060 over is 388 which you can get pistons for,but what makes you think you'll have a heating propblem ? Try this, tell the machine shop " Hey I didn't ask for .060 over but I'll except it if you will do a sonic testing to make sure the cyl. wall thickness is o.k." at their exspense of course. 350's can be taken .060 but it's a good idea to sonic test cyl. wall thickness.
ive been told by a few friends, and read on the board after searching for this, about .60 over causes heating problems.
Is their any way to prove they really did the sonic testing ???
also, when they had the block, they chiped the cyllinder wall. its in a place that it wont effect the engine, but should they do something about that as well ???
Can't they get you another block and start over? The machine shop chipped my 302 (sorry) block, but they replaced it before they even told me about it.
Assuming you ment .040, and whated .030 off that. That would give you .070 over.
Normal 350's get bored to .030, .040, and .060. Outside of a rocket block, thats the standard. (maybe I misunderstood you, but I'll clear that up anyhow)
At .060 you'll have closer to a 388 !!!
I don't think your going to have to much of problem with heat vs a .040 over.
It's better to have a straight .060 then a bowed out .040 ... It could be .042 in the center and .040 at the top and bottom.
Anyways you would have had a 385 @ .040 ...
I would go with it, hell .060 over pistons are not that hard to find.
Ron
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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe
350 cores are plentiful.don't go in there like a mad man(you catch more flies wth honey than vinegar)just yet.ask them politely to replace the block.did you sign anything,giving them at their own discretion the ability to make these so called judgement calls?if you did you're kinda outta luck.if you didn't tell them to replace it if they decline let them know you wll be calling the better business bureau as well as calling you local news station to help you in the recovery of either your money or a replacement block.usually they'll fold when the have a chance of recieving badd press which will affect their future business.
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87 trans am,gm crate 350(4 bolt mains 10to1),L98 aluminum heads,LT4 hot cam,slp runners,slp 1 5/8 headers,3in.y-pipe,edelbrock base,hi flo cat,air foil,afpr,as&m ported plenum,gutted airbox,t-5 tranny w/centerforce clutch and a 3.27 9bolt(11.9in. brakes),ed wright's fastchip,relocated iat sensor,160 fan switch&t-stat,tb bypass,accel supercoil,cap& rotor,slp 3in. catbcak,a/c delete.
SHE IS GONE BUT I KNOW THE GUY WILL GIVE HER A GOOD HOME.
best e/t:
3653lbs./full tank+ driver.
14.10@96.53mph 2.01 60'
if your block was +.040 there was no way they could of made it +.030 over. if you told them to bore it .030 more you'd have a +.070 block and no way to buy pistons for it. what the shop did was bore it to the next oversize bore, 4.060, that pistons are avaiable for. the way i see it the shop did nothing wrong. .060 is a common oversize and a lot of SBCs are running it. i'd worry more if it were a 400 block. if you want some eztra peace of mind have it UTed or sonic checked.
------------------ ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
There's no reason that you can't make a 383 out of it, except that it will be a 388 instead. Bummer, dude.
Any idea why they bored it? After all, they may have felt it might have actually needed it; and keep in mind, if they didn't bore it and you built the motor and it smoked or something, they know you'd be coming back at them complaining about bad block work. From their point of view, there's a liability exposure in turning out an un-bored block.
IMHO boring a block is not a thing to be taken lightly, and should only be done at need. I despise the way alot of rebuilders do, where every single motor they build is bored to the max, because that way they don't have to check anything. On the other hand, building a motor into a block with bad bores is a total waste of money, guaranteed to produce disappointing results.
There's not real difference in cooling between .040" and .060" overbore; that's only .010" of wall thickness after all, about the thickness of a sheet of good copy paper.
I guess the question comes down to, did it really need a bore job? or were they merely "padding" the ticket? If it's a shop you do business with regularly, with a good reputation and all that, and it really bothers you that it's .060" over, I'd suggest telling them you wanted to be notified before they bored it, and that you're upset that they didn't ask. Be willing to pay for boring, but offer them to trade yours even for some other one with .030" bore. After all, they can build and sell a .060" one as a replacement engine for somebody's truck or something, just the same as they can sell a .030" over one.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..." ICON Motorsports
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by GMTech: Thats not their fault, you brought it in already bored .010" larger than your expectations.
I would on the other hand ask why they went the extra .020", but my no means would I be mad because I had a 388 between my fenders.
</font>
i realize that, but also you see my point about goin the extra .20
he's right, you brought them a block to be bored .030 over that was already .040 over. if they bored it to .060 i'd assume that's what it took to clean it up. maybe they should have called, but they worked with what they had. and what's wrong with a 388??? aside from a different number, it's fine. at .060 over your not going to have any problems unless the block was junk to start with. there are many .060 over 350 blocks done without problems.
Either way you will need a good (NEW) radiator
and water pump. Use the factory HD clutch fan
and pulleys. More power more heat, deal with it. Install a separate trans cooler. My .060"
350 has been in two cars now, no problems.
I bracket race it, sometimes back to back runs in the middle of the summer with no problems. Don't blame your engine builder.
Was it Vegas Machine that did it ?? My block is 60 over too. It runs juuuuust fine and makes plenthy of power. It was 40 over when I brought it in and they said it needs to go 60 over because the surface rust on the block coudlnt be taken off with just a honing job. I'd say quit making a big deal out of and stop listening to all your lvfbody friends 60 over is fine. More cubes never hurt anybody.
Im not blaming anyone, im not bitching, and im havent even asked my LVFbody friends yet. ALL the information i have gotten here has come from other posts on thirdgen.org.....
im simply asking what i should do, what should i expect, and what will i need to do that i whouldnt have had to do before.
They make sleeves that they can press down into the engine block and then bore that out to what you want. One of my uncles works in a machine shop and thats what they do when they rebuild their engines. Just a suggestion.
<- Knows a guy with a 388 LT1. It runs fine and has no heating problems.... except after a lot of consecutive hot laps on a road course - the oil temp gets high. But he doesn't have an oil cooler and it got hot before when it was a stock LT1 too...
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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam My GTA
.060 over 350 should be fine.Shouldn't have a heating problem if you didn't before (unless you're making a bunch more power)..060 is largest recommended standard overbore, lots of pistons available for that size.I wouldn't sweat it.There's a lot of .060 over small blocks out there!
-Rich-
Apparently you all misunderstood what he was saying. It seems as if he didn't know that the block was already .040" over bored. He thought he had a standard bore block. He was just saying what he had originally intended to do, have it bored .030" over.
Thirdgenfbody.com,
Everyone else on here is right about them boring it out anyway. You told them when you dropped it off that you wanted it bored .030" over, right? Well since it was .040" over, then they just went to the next size bore. You were gonna pay the same price either way.
And, as ronterry said, they may of had to bore it because of warpage. Most shops won't bore an engine unless they have to. Well since you told them that you wanted it bored .030" over, they assumed that you wanted it bored out. So they bored it out to the next standard size.
You have to understand that the reason to overbore an engine is not to increase the size, it's to re-surface and true up the cylinders. Increasing the CID is just a perk!!!
I think what all your freinds were talking about with the 'overheating' thing is that when an engine has been bored out, you are (of course) reducing the thickness of the cylinder walls. (The 350 block is infamous for having thin walls anyway.)IF the engine overheats, then it increases the chance of the cylinder wall warping, and the chance of thermal breakdown of the piston rings. It takes "less heat" to bend "less metal",right? That's all.
Go with that block. Just know that it shouldn't be bored again. It'll last fine as long as you don't do much Road Racing. But a 388 would be a bad choice for that anyway.
I would definately complain that you were not contacted prior to the boring. If you asked for .030 over, and they checked it finding 4.040 +/- any out of round. All the machine shops I've ever worked with/for, would have automatically called to let the customer know that the block is .040 over already, and going .030 over that would be impossible, then ask if they would like to have the block bored to 4.060 and have the walls sonic tested.
I would ask them to either replace the block, or document that the walls are of an acceptable thickness, have them write out a warranty or something. Don't be an *** about it, remember they have your block, you have nothing.
Anthony
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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Actually running sleeves would strengthen the cylinders. Alot of big trucks and tractors put sleeves in the block just for that reason. The only downside of doing that is that they are extremely expensive. About $100-$120 per cylinder.
60 over is fine. More cubes never hurt anybody.
That's all.
