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Hey y'all,
While at Lowe's yesterday, I was looking at angle grinders. I have heard them mentioned in many posts on here, but off the top of my head can't remember what exactly they were used for. So, I have a pretty nice assortment of tools, but an angle grinder is not among it--it could be a nice Christmas present.
What do you use angle grinders for? What is a good size, rpm capability and amperage to get?
I've had mine since 1975. It is 4", kind of an odd size arbor, but I got it while stationed on Okinawa. It runs somewhere in the neighborhood of 12k RPMs. I don't know the amp draw, but I've never popped a breaker when using it.
I used it last month to open up the collector ball flange opening on my headers. The die grinder wouldn't touch it, but the angle grinder made quick work of it. I also used it to grind off the perimeter valve cover bolt bosses on the heads for the same reason. I probably use it several times a year.
My dad went out and got one to sharpen the lawn mower blade because he could do it without removing the blade first (he had mine for a few months while I was going to school after leaving Okinawa - got spoiled). I don't know if he ever used it for anything else. He got a 4.5", thought it was "better". If I had that size, I wouldn't have been able to fit it up to the collector for that exhaust modification.
I would think a 4" model would do you fine for most jobs. Harbor Freight has a 3/4 horse Chicago Electric on sale right now for $17.99. Has a side handle that mine doesn't have.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Thanks, I am actually putting dual exhaust on my car as in the time that I am not studying--the exhaust is going very slowly. Anyway, I'm "making" the pipes from sections of mandrel U-bends. I was going to use a chop saw to cut the pipe. An angle grinder sure would have helped me cut my stock muffler off, though, now that I think about it. I used a hacksaw, a dremel with cutting wheel, a sabresaw, and I twisted it back and forth for for about 10 minutes after I couldn't get anything else in there to cut. I finally twisted it enough times to break it off. Amazingly, the muffler inlet isn't all hacked up--I must have incredible skills
I think an angle grinder could help me out--I'll look into one.
I got a good deal on an angle grinder.. they're usefuly for a lot of stuff but my favorite use is cutting up parts cars when you're done with them! bodies/frames are much easier to dispose of when they're in bite-size pieces.
theres a tool for cutting exhaust (got mine at harbor freight for 20$) its like a pipe cutter with extra blades , makes nice cuts clean and even, little bit of work but well worth it and easy to use, but i have an angle grinder too, you can do alot with it, grind bolts that are too corroded to wrench, clearance things that wont fit etc, mine is like 5" so its kinda tight for some jobs though, gonna try to do what 5.7 did and open up the balls on my 2055r y pipe(hope it works )
My Craftsman one was instrumental in cutting away sheetmetal to make room for my 11" rear wheels & 315s!
I just had to take the arbor nut up to my local CNC shop to have it trimmed down, to fit in a thin, 1/8" wheel. The stock one was too thick to hold such a thin wheel securely. It kept spinning once I started cuttin
Personally i think the angle grinder is my favorite most useful tool i own. Not only for cutting or grinding rust or welds down you can also put other attachments on it. For example wire brushes to remove paint and light rust/oxidation. Or flap disks for some real aggressive sanding. Theres even blades that you can install for doing masonry work. Its a fantastic tool. As far as recommendations I would recomend getting a grinder that takes atleast 4 1/2 disk thats most common. Although i wont talk on brands as i don't have enough experience in that area to be objective on that matter don't cheap out on it if you actually intend to use if from time to time. Lastly although they have battery powered grinders out there dont buy them even the good brands don't perform well enough to do any real work. I have a Dewalt that i really like. It was somewhat expensive but it is a monster! It also has features like electronic overload protection (things like that will protect the tool from damage and are not included on less expensive models).
My Craftsman one was instrumental in cutting away sheetmetal to make room for my 11" rear wheels & 315s!
stephen id like to see pics of what you removed cause i was thinking of doing the same thing, the 4th gen wheels rub the inner wheel wells with my stock drum brake rear, (the rear will be gone in spring in favor of a 4th gen disc brake rear) but if i get a small break in the weather before then i can clearance those wheel wells and go get a baseline at the track before the rear change, document the difference between stock 2.73 peg legger and 3.23 posi (was gonna buy spacers but i cant see spending the money if im not gonna need them when the new rear goes in)
stephen id like to see pics of what you removed cause i was thinking of doing the same thing, the 4th gen wheels rub the inner wheel wells with my stock drum brake rear, (the rear will be gone in spring in favor of a 4th gen disc brake rear) but if i get a small break in the weather before then i can clearance those wheel wells and go get a baseline at the track before the rear change, document the difference between stock 2.73 peg legger and 3.23 posi (was gonna buy spacers but i cant see spending the money if im not gonna need them when the new rear goes in)
Here is my Photobucket of some of the pics. I never took any more, so thats all I have. I had to do some more cutting in the front of the wheel well as well, because the tires rubbed there. Almost nothing was need to clear the bck of the tires.
Below that "bulge" is where the stock bumpstop is. I had already cut it out, before seeing that that wasn't going to be enough room.
) its like a pipe cutter with extra blades , makes nice cuts clean and even, little bit of work but well worth it and easy to use, but i have an angle grinder too, you can do alot with it, grind bolts that are too corroded to wrench, clearance things that wont fit etc, mine is like 5" so its kinda tight for some jobs though, gonna try to do what 5.7 did and open up the balls on my 2055r y pipe(hope it works 
) 
(was gonna buy spacers but i cant see spending the money if im not gonna need them when the new rear goes in)
