Quote: Originally Posted by mw66nova if this is the case, then run the hooker 2055's, but get them ceramic coated, along with the y-pipe. they flow FAR better than the edelbrock's. as far as doing it yourself in 8 hours or less...i'd plan a whole weekend honestly. oh, and your dad must not remember how that chevelle really ran, cause it'd put a spankin' on your car. not to be mean, but that's just the way it is. don't worry about what pop's says, just make sure you pay for everything and don't ever ask for help, even with stuff not car related, so make sure you prioritize correctly and don't allow the car stuff to get in the way. then he'll respect you for it. yeah but I dont think they make them for dual cat cars.. My car came with it so I need it for emissions. Its in the VIN and recorded @ the dealerships.

oh yeah, i forgot about that bull crap...hmmm...find some place that can make a good y-pipe with dual cats. does slp still make the dual cat deal?

and it shouldn't be in the VIN, but in the RPO codes...right? is there a way around this? cause if not, get ready to spend some real cash for anything that's gonna perfrom decently.

just had a thought. where in NY are you gonna be? would it be possible for you to get to Mufflex in NJ? they can build you just about anything you need...though your still going to have to pay.

what about getting some longtubes, fabbing up some AIR tubes, then building a dual cat y-pipe? just a thought...willing to fab or learn to fab or pay someone to fab?

The car is in the poconos near stroudsburg and I am in Jamaica Queens.

No SLP no longer makes the dual cat headers if not I would have gotten them.

I want to get some real nice headers and do it piece by piece,(money issues) I just wish dual cat cars weren;t so damn rare so I can just get aftermarket street legal headers.. The Edelbrocks are kinda expensive to suck though, I dont understand why they didn't dyno tune the headers. Is borla worth the money I mean the exhaust is 800 bucks. How much would tuned mufflex headers run me? And would it be worth getting mid length headers.

i wouldn't have them make you a set of headers, but modifying the hooker 2055 y-pipe wouldn't be such a bad idea.

borla's products will last nearly forever because of the stainless steal, though i'd consider something cheaper because the flow is gonna be about the same. maybe try the hooker catback, MUCH cheaper and flows very well.

Has ne1 ever tried 4.56 gears?

I'm sure they have but you would have to have one high revving engine, or a 5 speed and not mind going through the traps in 5th. Maybe for an 8th mile car this would be something worth consideration. My opinion is in most cases 4.56 gearing would be too much gear.

i wouldn't put a 4.56 gear in a 7.5" 10 bolt...the pinion gear is too small to take any kind of real punishment. most people will do just fine with a 3.73 or 4.10 gear.

Long tubes tend to help low and midrange power. Shorties don’t really help anywhere, they’re a “better then nothing” thing but the tuned frequency that they would actually help at is usually at an rpm greater then what the engine will ever turn.

No, you’re mostly right. Its like the tpi intake (tuned for a harmonic peak between 3000 and 3500 rpm) vs an LT1 (the runners are so short that the harmonic that they would tune for is way outside the range of what the engine will ever see). To make it a perfect analogy, the TPI LTR setup would be like a set of long tubes with like 1.25” primaries and the LT1 would be like a shorty with 1-7/8” primaries… (in other words, the LT1 still makes more power because it flows more, not because it’s tuned better)

well you started OK, but this part just went totally in the ****ter…

I have a 305 tbi. 1.6 roller rockers, underdrive pullies, hedman shortys, straight through pipe cat, flowmaster 80 series, tbi spacer and fuel injector spacer, and it was rebuilt and has a higher compression now. What type of cam should I get oh I forgot to say its a 92 rs and I deleted the smog stuff, Just looking for a suggestion and need to know about the chip work I"ll be doing. Thanks, Dave

Yeah because of what other people said I went and double checked.. The second part is a direct quote from an automotive "tech" site....

i use old 60's solid lifter cams in my TBI 305. this 1969 DZ 302 Duntov *30/30* camshaft really woke my engine up it now climbs to 6500 rpms with no problem

Just out of curiousity did you buy or make your LCA's? If bought were they bolt in or weld in? And last but not least where (assuming you bought them of course)?

i boxed my factory lca's, though i bought a set of spohn lca relocation brackets that i then welded onto the rearend.

ive got a 1988 305 TBI with an auto tranny. i was wantin to try and get around 300hp out of it. i dont really like factory v6s having more hp than a v8. so far ive ran a 16.2 at 84.1 with a 60' of 2.36 with the cutout open. ive got a list of mods id like to make and would really appreciate any suggestions. i would also like to convert to TPI but i cant find anyone willing to part with theirs.

-World Products S/R Torquer 305 heads (58cc chambers, 170cc intake runners, 1.94 x 1.50 valves, 1.250" single spring, 100# @ seat, .560" max lift)
-Comp Xtreme Energy Camshaft
-either 264/270 (adv duration), .487/.495" lift, 1200-5200rpm range
-or 270/276, .495/.502" lift, 1600-5400rpm range
-Comp Magnum Rocker Arms (1.6, 3/8", self aligning)
-or Comp Pro Magnum Rocker Arms (1.6, 7/16" or 1.6, 3/8)
-Edelbrock Hi-Flo TPI Baseplate
-Edelbrock Hi-Flo TPI Runners
-BBK Aluminum Underdrive Pulleys
-TCI Breakaway Torque Converter (11" non lockup)
-JET TPI Air Foil
-BBK Aluminum Throttle Body (twin 52mm)
-Inland Empire Driveshaft
-Hooker Competition Shorties or Hedman Longtubes
-Hooker Cat-Back
-MSD ProBillet Distributor w/ Small Cap
-MSD 6A Ignition

i know ill need a new fuel pump and a better cooling system. ive got some spohn suspension upgrades planned and also a set of 3.73 posi gears that will go in this spring or early summer probably. i know pretty much nothing about putting an engine together so like i said, any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

seems like a bunch of people have been asking about fast 305's lately. i'm bumping this up so some folks will get another good look at it. my last 305 combo bested at 12.31@108mph on a 1.67 60'. if you want the spedifics of that combo, i'll post up later.

Matt,, have you scaled the car lately? Have you had a chance to drive it with the 416 heads?

Um, yea, like anyone reading this thread is not going to want specifics...

This is an interesting thread, now im curious as to if my car is possibly capable of 13's or faster. Right now im running 187's, got a set of 416's with a 3 angle job and half way ported.

305 bored .060" 316"
416 ported heads coming soon, 3 angle job, huge amounts of port work done,
heads milled down to 55cc
deck at .021"
150 hp shot sniper kit
flowtech shorties (the smaller tubed ones)
no cats
204°/214° .413"/.442"
2° advanced cam timing
Edelbrock EPS manifold
275/60/r15s on back

Next are coming a cage, subframes, and a new convertor, and limited slip. Possibly 1.6 roller rockers, probably just 1.5s, discarding the muffler.

lol, alright here goes
-113 casting aluminum vette heads with mild bowl blending. backcut stockvalves
-comp pro-magnum roller rockers
-10.2:1 c/r
-280H cam. 230* @ .050", .480" lift, 110lsa
-holley street dominator intake p/n 300-36
-holley 650 double pumper tuned by me
-hedman longtubes with dual 2.5" pipes with h-pipe.
-rest of the drivetrain remained the same from the previous setup, though i found that the converter was actually flashing to 4000rpm, not 2400.

new combo is the same basic deal, with a little more compression and the 416's. i killed the transmission a few months ago and have just ordered a new one. i've ditched the 700r4 and am going with a Red-Neck Performance th350. it's got a full manual reverse valve body, a 9.5" 4000 stall converter with anti-ballooning plates, 36 element intermediate sprag, and a transbrake. it's not been on the scales as of late. lots of things have changed and i'm interested to see how much it weighs once the th350 is in her. i did add a little weight over the 12.31 pass, which was 2910lbs w/o me. i put on a steal hood and the iron heads. but i lost a little by loosing the front bumper support and going to an even lighter wheel. so, i'm not sure what she's gonna weigh honestly.

i'm also ditching the exhaust and putting a single 3.5" pipe on with a dynomax bullet muffler. should have some pics of that tomorrow. it'll dump right before the rearend.

Are you still driving on the street w/o a front bumper support?

no. i bought a 1991 d250 dodge pickup with a 12v cummins turbo diesel. it does far better on fuel than the camaro did towards the end of it's daily driver status

With the current setup (2910lbs+180lbs driver @108MPH) you're making an honest 360 to 375hp @ the flywheel.
Nicely done too. I'm curious how your ported 416's stack up to your mildly tweeked ZZ4/L98 heads. I also have a 3.5" 2 into single exhaust system tucked away for when my custom 2.5" dual system rusts out. Have a big *** 4" flowmaster delta force race muffler to try with this one. (not sure how I'm going to like it) Right now with my modified dual turbo mufflers I have no interior resonance and a relatively quiet but athoritative idle.
I think you'll like the th-350 trans better overall. It's even a few lbs lighter than a th700r4.

I guess I will link people to my 312 combo. The post lived on the TBI board for about a day.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tb...ack-times.html (312 TBI Track times (11.8 @ 119.1))

I am still trying to figure out how that car got down to 2,790 lbs on the truck scale. I think it was actually around 2,900-3,000 lbs. Just doesn't seem right.

hahaha, 180lbs driver, hahaha...yeah, i weigh 260lbs.

fast355, that's one bad motor you guys got there. looks like i'm no longer the fastest n/a street driven 305 here on tgo.

You are still the fastest Carbed NA 305 on TGO. Get you a nice roller cam to bump up the low-mid range torque, find some 463 casting ZZ4 heads and clean them up, then you can re-take your title. The PCM running the engine and the transmission are really the reason our combo runs so well. It grunts effortlessly up to speed. Nudge the pedal down and in 10 seconds you are going fast enough to be thrown in jail around here.

i'm not really sure what i want to do anymore. i got posts like these that make me wanna keep the little engine that could, then i got other posts that make me wanna go ls1. staying with the 305 till it blows up is probably the most cost effective thing to do. and seeing how it's got a set of forged rods and a nice eagle crank, i don't think it'll be gonig anywhere for a while.

pics of new exhaust as promised:










and video, sorry about the pic quality on the video. the sound turned out ok though

look good matt

Looks like you went with a few changes there… at least since the last time I was really paying attention.

Why the single exhaust?

I like the MT’s, what size/offset did you end up using in the back? Looks like you swapped to shorter tires, probably 275/50’s? What are you running for front runners? We used to run up to pep boys and grab a set of cornel metric 165/15’s and be done with it, but I’ve recently found that they don’t exist anymore.

I don’t know why really, but I’ve suddenly decided that my project car is going to stay a 305 for a while (probably mostly because I don’t have the room/time to pull the 350 that I was going to use, and have always wanted to waste my time proving otherwise for the “you can’t go fast with a 305 guys.” Current mind set is push the 305 till I wear it out/blow it up and in the mean time build up that 350 with better parts…).

My biggest debate now is that I don’t have any heads that I want to use on the 305. The stock TPI heads are junk, and the Canfield aluminum heads that I was going to use on the 350 are a bit big (I don’t even know if it’s possible to clearance the tops of the cylinder walls enough for the valves to clear but if I thought I could get it done with the engine in the car I’d do it). I’ve got some 416s off of my ’83, but they’re higher mile than I really want to run, and machine shops in the area are insane (I can get a set of performance rebuilt heads mailorder with any size valves, basic clean up, new guides, decent usable springs, guide plates… for less than half what the local shops want to just go through a set and do the most basic of clean ups). I’d like to stay with stock or slightly larger than stock chamber sizes to drop compression a little bit.

I ended up grabbing a set of Draglites for it, ordered in some oddball 15x9 with 5.5” BS (1/2” offset) for the rear so I can tuck them in like I always bitch about, and then cut out the bump stops and anything with some shape in the inner wheel wells to make room (which I had to anyway for my 295/35/18 street tires).

Past that it’s mostly a question of how long that little 305 is going to stay NA, which is probably a good thing since the “good parts” that I have for the rest of the drivetrain are _way_ overkill for a mild 305 (9” moser rear, 4L80e tranny… )

honestly, the sound of that big single sounds totally gnarly in comparison to my old dual exhaust sound and the clearance is MUCH better.

the new wheels are 15x8 out back with a 4.5" backspacing. they currently have a 235/60/15 mickey thompson et street radial. i'm gonna get a set of 275/60/15's again soon though.

I love the exhaust, better clearance than me too!

Well, there's your problem. j/k

I will assume that person in the picture isn't you as he looks more like 160lbs not 260lbs.

haha, yeah, that's my 16 y/o little bro. he's like 140lbs. i'm the big guy in the driver's seat in the video.

15x8’s are lighter then 10’s anyway, and there isn’t a tire that you’ll get in the stock wheel well that won’t be OK on 8’s, that was kind of my thinking with the 15x9’s. So what front runners are those? They look taller then the typical 165-15’s?

they are. i splurged and got a set of 26x7.5 mickey thomspon sportsman front runners. i too was thinking of the lighter wheel theory