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Old 12-19-2005, 02:25 PM   #1
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bolt broken in water pump hole.....tried to drill....help!

Ok so there is a loooooooooooong story behind this, but to make it short I had a bolt break in the block on the PS of the pump. I took the pump off and there was a tinny bit of the bolt showing. I tried to weld a bar to it, but couldn't get good penetration.. Then I grinded down the top, to make it flat and drilled a little hole then a bigger hole, then back to a little hole in the big one, so it was stepped. I tapped in a screw extractor, and it started to spin out like it was working.......then that snapped. I chipped out someof the bits, but it is in there pretty good. Now there is a very hard slanted edge in the hole....this makes the bit just want to go into the block. I tried to place the waterpump on and use it as a guide so the drill will go sraight. This worked for a tinny bit, but the drill would rather eat the body of the pump and block than the bolt and exctractor.


What do I do now? just dril the hole big enough for a tap and tap whatever I can, add some extra silicone and forget it for now? This time I am using ARP chromoly bolts.

Or just put that one bolt on and forget it?


I will post pics later. Maybe you guys will be able to help more when you see the mess.
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Old 12-19-2005, 02:52 PM   #2
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Go to www.mcmaster.com and buy yourself a carbide 25/64" drill bit.

Put the water pump on with the other 3 bolts. Using the WP bolt hole as a "drill bushing", drill out the EZ-Out out with the carbide bit. Go slowly. Oil the bit every few seconds.

Now you see why I didn't suggest one of those. I have NEVER, not even ONCE, successfully extracted a bolt with one of those things. After about the 3rd time or so of being exactly where you are right now, I decided they aren't worth having around.

That drill size is the correct bit for the 3/8"-16 Heli-Coil, which you can then install once you've got the remains of all that other crap out of there.
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Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate.
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Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:

The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:32 PM   #3
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Damn. Thanks a ton sofakingdom. You are a great help. I went to the site. selected: -metal working, -25/64ths, (at the bottom) -solid carbide, -Plain, -3"

Am I on the right track? Just wanna make sure since it takes forever for these things to ship apparently. (says could be 2 weeks)

2956A72
Solid-Carbide Twist Drill Bit 25/64" Drill Size, 3" L O'all, 1-1/4" Flute Length
In stock at $32.48 Each



Or do you think I should maybe try to find this size in a reverse bit to maybe help pull whatever is in there out?

Again thanks for all the help. This is really a headache. I just wanna get this figured out before X-mass so I am not thinking of it all the time.

Later

-Dennis
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:37 PM   #4
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At this point a reverse bit probably won't help, the broken extractor is already reverse threaded.
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:48 PM   #5
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true. I just thought if there is not differece. It might not hurt, if the price for each is the same....just so that is dosn't push whatever is left in there against the block. Then it will also know when I am supposed to stop. The reverse might pull whatever is in there a little bit away from the block and help tell when to stop.


Not too sure if what i am thinking would even make sence. Just a thought.
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Old 12-19-2005, 11:50 PM   #6
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I use mcmaster a fair bit, and that price seemed high...
checked, never mind, guess that's right.

It shows in stock, i'd guess you could have it in 1 day if you picked overnight air. We do that and it's 2 business days to canada, with customs so...
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Old 12-20-2005, 07:52 AM   #7
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Hey sonix, I assume you have read the other posts above...Can you tell me if that bit that I poseted above is what I should order?

I just want a second opinion, as their site is not as too clear to me. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2005, 09:20 AM   #8
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That one should work. Just remember to use plenty of oil, and be gentle. No sense in getting in a hurry and burning it up. As long as metal chips are being produced, then you're making progress; the broken bolt won't grow back faster than you can drill it.

I don't think, with the bolt broke off like that, that reverse twist will make much difference. Sometimes it's real helpful, like when the bolt broke for some other reason than being tightened; but this time I doubt it will matter.
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Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:

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Old 12-20-2005, 10:13 AM   #9
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allright. Thank you vey much. I will order the bit today and see what I can do. I can't wait to be over this annoying hurdle.

In the meantime I have a dual 3" exhaust to fab. FUN......sorta.
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Old 12-20-2005, 10:41 AM   #10
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yea, that bit is great, you'll probably find other uses for it to justify buying a $30 drill bit...
I was going to suggest the $16 carbide tipped HSS bit, but they say not to be used on steel...?
if you don't have any cutting fluid, you can pick up a small bottle of rapid tap or something locally.
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:42 AM   #11
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I went through the same thing just a month ago. I had to use a carbide burr in a dremel and ground out around the broken extractor. Then I was able to knock it out and grind the rest of the bolt out to where I could peal the remaining out of the treads. This kept me from having to retap.

Those extractor are really hard so expect this to be slow going. Took me a week to remove the bolt
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Old 12-22-2005, 10:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by sofakingdom
Go to www.mcmaster.com and buy yourself a carbide 25/64" drill bit.

Put the water pump on with the other 3 bolts. Using the WP bolt hole as a "drill bushing", drill out the EZ-Out out with the carbide bit. Go slowly. Oil the bit every few seconds.

Now you see why I didn't suggest one of those. I have NEVER, not even ONCE, successfully extracted a bolt with one of those things. After about the 3rd time or so of being exactly where you are right now, I decided they aren't worth having around.

That drill size is the correct bit for the 3/8"-16 Heli-Coil, which you can then install once you've got the remains of all that other crap out of there.
i know its simple, but that was probly the best bolt extraction advice given on this entire board... lol
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:53 PM   #13
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Dennis, if you have no luck you can hold a 3/8 nut over the hole and weld through the hole to the broken bolt. If you do it right, you can use a 9/16 wrench to spin the bolt out. As an old muffler guy I can tell you that I have removed many a broken maniflod stud out of an exhaust manifold this way. The carbide should work for you, though.
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Old 12-22-2005, 12:58 PM   #14
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yeah i tried the welding idea. But I am just too scared to weld for a long time that close to the motor. I hear it is ok, but something in my head says it is wrong. So i am gonna resort to drilling.

Something about welding on a $6400 motor before it has been turned on just gives me the shivers. hehe.
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:42 AM   #15
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How did things turn out? Did you get it?
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:55 PM   #16
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excallent advise sofakingdom. i build downhole drilling motors for oil rigs and an ez out has saved my *** on more occasions than i can count. certain environments tend to mushroom and eat metal retaining screws while still installed. I will attest they tend snap and strip the hole and yadda yadda yadda but put on a little heat, tap it in not so much to expand it, and a sharp quality ez out will really come into it's own.
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:06 PM   #17
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still waiting for my special drill bit in the mail. UGH

like 30 bucks
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Old 01-05-2006, 08:36 PM   #18
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I got my bit and i drilled a little, or as far as i could cuz the bit got destoyed...and i went really slow too.....

anyways, then i helicoiled it and that seemed to be fine. It turned out to be a hair to shallow of a hole, so I put an old ARP washer on the bolt and it tuned out fine. All fixed
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Old 01-06-2006, 10:30 AM   #19
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30 dollars well spent
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Old 01-06-2006, 11:00 AM   #20
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So duz, you got a better suggestion for how he "should have" handled it instead??

It's pretty easy to snipe at somebody else that you don't happen to agree with, after the fact. Anybody can manage that. We call people like that things like "Monday morning quarterbacks".

It's a little tougher to actually be helpful, and offer useful advice.

So what do you do to remove broken-off bolts with broken-off easy-outs in them? I'd like to hear your solution. Who knows, I might even use it someday... on an easy-out that SOMEBODY ELSE broke off that I have to get out for some reason, because I SURE AS HELL won't be using any of them myself.
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— William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi

Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:

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Old 01-09-2006, 02:07 PM   #21
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as stated in my first post, an excelent tutorial on removing sheared bolt heads. cudos on a good suggestion and instruction. i would have done exactly as you suggested if that had happened to me, but in order to prevent being in that situation i would have heated before twisting the ez out. you stated that you have "NEVER, not even ONCE, successfully extracted a bolt with one of those things" . I have. A lot. If you think I'm suggesting he wasted 30 dollars; no. All MY drill bits that I use are carbide. The fact that his broke is just a fact of life. I was just saying that an ez out has its place in a toolbox. We call people that jump at the chance to take offence "insecure"
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:21 PM   #22
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Actually the reason his carbide broke is because carbide needs to be spun at high rpm. Chances are good that Dennis was just using an electric/air dill without much RPM. The carbide pobably caught the edge of the broken eze out and broke the drill. Nothing to get bent about guys. Sometimes there are more than one solution AND SOMETIMES what works for some doesn't work for others!
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:21 PM
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