I have a 383 shortblock waiting to go in my car. If I get 64cc chamber heads, that will give me 10.75 compression(which is what I want). I also want 2.02/1.6 valve size What I don't know is what intake or exhaust port sizes to get..... I want to run the car on the track about 3 times a year and put on about 4000km(2500 miles) a summer. I will have the tpi on for 1 year and then get another intake(LT1, mini ram or stealth ram) I will get 1 3/4 headers too Any opinions on port sizes for me??

AFR 195! Dart Iron Eagle 200.

I have Dart 230s (2.08" Intake/1.60" exhaust/72 CC fast burn chamber) for my 396 SBC.

210s

I did a bit more research on the afr195
The rpm range is 2000-6500. I think this will fit my combo better than the 210(3000-7500)



Do you like these heads? What is your liking for them?

My likeing with them is that they flow more than the 195s, you'll give up a little velocity with the bigger ports so youll lose a lil down low but I think you have the cubes to make up for it and more than make up for it up top

donno what ur tryin 2 do with it tho, track only? street strip? street? what size cam you gettin? I dont think the 210s have a 64cc chamber think its 72 or 76 dont remember off the top of my head.

I wouldn't go over 200cc's if it was me. Its not worth it on the street to run larger than that, its over kill for your app.

I would like the street-strip application the best.

Not sure on what cam I am getting until I figure out what heads I am getting.

I think that 10.75-11.0 compression is as big as I want to go.(64cc=10.75 to 1)

If you're going with an automatic transmission then your shift recovery is going to be lower in the RPM range.
You'd definately be better off with the longer runner HSR and a head with ports in the 180-200cc range.

Also keep in mind that port volume is just that. It is not a true indicator of cross-section area at any given point in the port, nor does it tell you any taper in the port.

I am going to keep my 700r4

My shifting now is at 5000 then dropping down to 3500.

If I get the mini ram or LT1 then I will shift at 6500, would that drop it down to 4500-5000?

With a 700R it's the first to second shift that kills you.
The recoveries go like this assuming no converter slip.

1st gear at 5000 = 2nd gear recovery of 2650

1st gear at 6500 = 2nd gear recovery of 3450


The rear gear or tire size doesn't matter since the transmission gears stay the same, so the spreads do not change unless you change to a different transmission.
With the 700R-4 consider a minimum of 3000 RPM stall converter neccessary. A 383 should produce enough torque to increase the shift extension to closer to 4000 RPM (increased slip).

This is the reason that the shorter runner LT1 and miniram should only be used with an automatic with a very high stall, or a manual trans. Those intakes shift the horsepower curve up higher in the RPM range. The low shift recovery of a 700R would kill your acceleration.

Since you're keeping the 700R, that's why I suggested the HSR, and even then the stall I mention above would help greatly with the 700R trans.
With the HSR and stall, you then have more room to choose for you heads intake port volume. You can better use a larger volume like the 200cc to 215cc at that point.

Going the other way with a miniram, stock converter, AND the larger intake port, you would most likely have very poor performance unless you extended your working RPM range to 7500+ RPM and/or swapped to a close geared manual trans with increased rear-gear ratio.

I hope this information helps you in putting together a better working combination.

Not trying to argue, but, I just checked my G-Tech runs and here are my shifts and recovery points.

Run #1
1st gear - 5700, 2nd gear - 3600
2nd gear - 5700, 3rd gear - 3800

Run #2
1st gear- 5400, 2nd gear - 3400
2nd gear - 5500, 3rd gear - 3600

Here is my buddies '92GTA run
1st gear 4850- 2nd gear recovery=3100rpm
All these runs are on stock 26 inch tires, stock 700r4?

Maybe my g-tech is out

Anyone have any knowledge of these??
WORLD heads, 200cc intake, 2.02 x 1.6, 64cc
part#021150-2, btw these are aluminum.

Feel free to do the math yourself; it's quite simple. I did state in my post about slip. When unlocked, converters have a certain amount of slip. Stock converters do not have a lot of slip. Tire and transmission slip can also be a factor during a shift.

My first thought is that you don't have tire or transmission slip, but probably the normal amount of converter slip that's in the neighborhood of about 500 RPM at the shift.

The main factor in your case is how the RPM was recorded. Going by the factory tach during a scan, or by the way g-tec reads engine speed, you're definately going to have some error. G-tec has it's own forum to address problems with their g-meters, and the reading of RPM is one of the big ones.

Your rear gear or tire size doesn't change the calculated recovery speeds. That is determined by the gear spread in the transmission.

Thanks for the reply!
I did not realize the convertor would slip that much!

Not trying to jack your thread but I see a few different heads have been mentioned. I know these heads have been mentioned before but has anyone ever bought a set out of curiosity?

http://www.shaverengines.com/EQLIGHTNING.html

anyone else notice that this thread has 24,000 views???? That's gotta be an error, WTF???


even though it's mostly a street car, for the amount of miles you put on the car yearly, if it's not as streetable it's not that much of a concern eh?

I think 200cc is about as large as you'd want to go though.

I feel that on a 383 for the street a 200cc inlet is plenty. The SportsmanII heads are great units at a reasonable price. I am using them on my 406 and have no complaints about the way it runs. Lots of idle to upper rpm torque. Let me say again lots of torque...very important on the street. 2.02/1.60 valves are plenty, but consider using a multi-angle valve cut with a 30 degree type of job. This will give the opening valve more flow at low lifts where it spends more time than full open (did I put that clearly?) Also consider a 1.6 rocker ratio to allow the engine to think a larger cam is installed without the effects of long duration. Make sense??
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Wow this is from last year...I should pay more attention.

I closed up the ports on my AFR 195's. The velocity and swirl that I picked up worked better with the shorter rods. Peak power is around 5500rpm (430hp) and peak tq was around 4000 (470tq).

You didn't mention the cam specs. That has a lot to do with head slection. It doesn't do much goo to put a big port head on top of a cam with short duration and not much lift.
In general, if you're interested in running nitrous at the track then a larger port head is a good thing. However, it will be a bit "sloppy" on the street.

If you want the best responsiveness on the street and only occasionally go to the track and use a small shot of nitrous, I'd go with the AFR195's or even the AFR180's. The 180's will give you plenty of bottom end where you need it with the 700R4.
A good converter always helps. Again, the stall rpm will depend on cam. But I agree. Use something in the 3000-3500 range.
Put the spray on it and let it eat!!!

Hey, i just red the whole thread, and this information is very relative to what im doing, 383, 700r4.

what do you people think of trickflow heads? im considering using the 64cc ones.

as for the transmission, at least a 3000 stall tq converter?

and what about a shift kit? im unsure of what brand would be good, can anyone recommend?

Heads are like women. Everybody's got their favorite type.
Again, need to know what you want to do for cam and motor performance in order to make a head and converter selection.
Having said that IMO the best heads for a hot S/S motor are AFR's. The new Elminators are supposed to be hot but I've only got experience with the older models. I have a 422 stroker with a Hyd.Roller (.525/.540, 242/252 @ .05) and AFR210's making 475rwhp. In a automatic car that's making 550-570 FWHP. So I'm believer in AFR's.
However, TFS195's are a good low cost head. If I were running a shot of spray I might use TFS215's. Also, Canfields are a good cost effective head.
Check out Popular Hot Rodding August 2004. Vizard built a 383, Hyd.FT motor w/Canfield's making 475hp. Sprayed it with a 175 shot and made 650HP.
The little 383 in my 83 TA has TFS G1's(Stock) and a little 229/234 hyd roller. It weighs 3650lbs and runs 12.40-12.50's/107-108mph on motor. That's about 360RWHP.
Then there's Brodix, Edelbrock, Dart, World.........

From my recent experience I would go with something around 210cc for your 383. We just finished the primary tune on my 355 build up with Dart Pro One 200cc heads and the Comp Cams XFI 268 cam. I'm also running 10.75:1 compression with .035" quench.

The driveability is excellant with very sharp throttle response. Idles very smoothly at 750rpm. No low end power drop at all. Now maybe the 3600rpm stall helps. I don't know but I'm very please at how well the car runs. The drivability is the best it has been in years.

Your TPI intake is going to like a different cam selection then your miniram or stealth. Also your head selection for the two style COULD be different. I wouldn't go more than 180 on a TPI motor but 195 with the miniram/stealth. You REALLY need to sit down and figure out ONE (TPI or mini/stealth)combination, then build it. Your going to eat up alot of money.

I have a converted LT1 intake, so that is the intake I will use.

I will shoot for 10.5-11 for compression.

I am going to use a 3000-3200 stall.

The cam will be will a lift of atleast .5 lift with a 1.5 roller rocker(.533 with 1.6rr)
It will have a duration of atleast 224
It will have a LSA of 110-112
I will use a 150 shot of nitrous and work my way up to a 200shot.

Has anyone tried this combo?

AFR 195... If you plot the air flow at each 0.5" increment of valve lift (up to 0.55" lift), and look at the area under the curve, you will see that the AFR 195s outflow everything else out there.

Right now, I am getting good performance on my 395 cu.in. stroker with AFR 190s. I recently ran a 12.12 with my MAFed '87 IROCZ. I'd like to upgrade to AFR 195s.

i realize this thread is over a year old, but i am putting together a very similar combo. I going to be converting my 350 to a 383 (eagle rotator kit) and i got dart pro 1 platinum heads (200cc), and a comp XE cam 224/230 dur, 543/550 lift with 1.6 roller rockers.

my question is about the correct stall i should get. i already ordered a B&M holeshot 2400, but im wondering if i should get a higher stall. the reason i went with a lower stall is because i am plannig on taking it to the strip every once in a while, but i still want it to be good on the street. should i go higher??

Definitly higher than that. Atleast a 3000 stall.