Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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I just finished a search on this topic and somebody had a similar question and another person answered saying that if the rockers were overtightened it wouldnt run below 1500 rpms or it would backfire. My question is what if it is only overtightened a little? How would you be able to know? Are the rockers supposed to be a little loose or should they not move at all? It just took me 3 days to take everything apart and im praying that it isnt overtighened.
Another thing, everybody says to tighten it untill it doesnt move, then do another half turn. So if you follow that then check it 10 minutes later and its loose again...is this normal..or not?
I would be very grateful to any information on this, and I thank anyone in advance for any help.
Thank you
__________________ Ordinarily he was insane, but he had lucid moments when he was merely stupid.
Heinrich Heine (1797 - 1856)
if there over tightned the car will run really bad in genral, there are 2 ways to ajust the valves dynamicly and staticly, staticly is uasally done on a new engine prior to startup, it is done by putting the engine on the compression stroke of each cylinder, and then tighting the intake valve for that cylender while jiggiling the pushrod up and downwhen there's nore more play NOT WHEN IT IS TIGHT, put between 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn on it (the amount depends on who U talk to and what the lifter card says), then repete it on the exauast valve, then go to the next cylender in the fireing order and repete the procedure, and coutune doing it for the rest of the cylenders.
to ajust the valves dynamicly, start the car up, back off the nut until the lifters click, then tighten them up until they stop clicking then put the same 1/4 to 3/4 turn on them, and just repete it on all the other valves...be advised it can get allitle messy....or allot messy if sombody revs the engine on U
Thanks for guidance. I have the little kit thing used to adjust the rocker arms while the car is running and to stop oil from attacking me. Reason I didn't use it was because I wasn't sure of the AIR pump stuff. The tubes and what not go right above the valve cover on the passenger side. I didn't want to try to adjust the rockers with the AIR pump's hoses disconnected. But I guess I have no other alternative. So, will it matter any to have the hoses disconnected?
I tore down everything to replace the valve stem seals and the drivers side headgasket... put it all back together and it didnt want to run!!! I didnt have compression on that drivers side!!
After I paniced and caught control of myself to think, lol... it turned out that when I set the valve lash staticaly... I did in fact overtighten (luckily not enough to bend any pushrods) causing the valves to be open just barely cracked open...
At that point I set the lash dynamically with the engine running and all has been well for the last 2,000 miles now
I doesnt matter not having the AIR hooked up while you work... I actually ripped it all out and got a different belt, cuz man it's a pain in the a$$ to work with all that stuff in there...
there is a specific sequence to tighten them....you tighten each rocker while its opposite one is at full lift....basically when the intake rocker for your #1 cylinder is at full lift, you can tighten the #6 cylinder intake valve...if you have someone helping, you can have them slowly crank the engine with a breaker bar and socket and push on the rocker while it is coming up, you should be able to tell when it is at full lift....then you go to the opposite valve tighten until there is no lash and then between an 1/8 and 1/2 turn depending on what you use your car for....there is a very descriptive article i found when i did mine but i cant find it now...ill keep looking....good luck
the do certain valves at #1 TDC and than rest at #6 TDC only works if you have a really small cam, and I'm not sure what cam he has, plus it can be confusing, so I figured the most accuarate and least confusing way of doing it staticly is each cylender at a time. as for the AIR sys., it might make some intristing blowing and hissing noises W/ the tubes disconnected, and it might through some codes, but it won't hurt anything to have it disconnected
__________________ 84 Z-28 in the prosess of re-build:
383, steel crank, forged pistons 4 bolt block .040 over
comp cams nitrous XP 288HR
Adv dur 288/315
Dur@.050 236/248
LSA 113
valve lift .520/.540
"quiet" gear drive
polished and ported trick flow 23* heads
comp P/N 26918-16 beehive valve springs
steel full roller rockers
edelbrock pro-flow 1000 CFM EFI port mached to heads
Venom 36 lb injectors
edelbrock nitrous sys, 150 shot
hooker 2210 1 3/4 pri headers
powermaster starter
powermaster alternator, 160 amp
'97 T-56 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 shifter
richmond 3.73 gears
eaton posi
spohn K-member
spohn "wonderbar"
spohn torque arm/crossmember
spohn lower control arms
spohn A-arms
spohn panhard bar
spohn subframe connectors
dual exauast, 3" up to cut outs
nordskog digital dashbord
trippel gauge pilar mount
digital fuel press.
digital nitrous pressure gauge
digital oil temp gauge
Thank you all much for the help. I'm gonna be doing it dynamically, hopefully today. I wish I could remove that damned air pump, everything related to is in the way of everything on the motor, can't even do a quick tune up without laying on my back.. but I'm stuck here in california for another few weeks then off to north caroilina~