Anyone ever try that internal tire balancing stuff? Basically some steel shot coated so it doesn't wear anything inside the tire. But its a dynamic balance instead of a static one. Dude in the virago forum did it to his bike and is raving about how awesome his bike rides now. Smooth as glass. website he got his from, though there are many many many versions. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html I have also seen some that bolt behind the tire. Just a giant rubber donut filled with oil and steel shot.

Interesting stuff. I have had a shake in my 2000 Excursion since I changed out the factory tires. I just ordered some todat. Will be interesting to see if it works.

Thanks for posting and I will update once I have tried it.

Sweet, can't wait to hear how it works for you too.

They have a powder like stuff that I get intsalled in my semi truck tires called EQUALL and it works real good. The tires stay ballanced for the life of the tire and I don't have to worry about the lead weights flying off the rims. I haven't used it in auto tires though but I'm thinking about it because I don't like the weights on my fac. alloy's and the stick ons they use on the inside of the rims suck!

use it all the time on my 39.5" tires on the suburban, no idea how it'd work on passenger car tires, but sure helps when you chunk a tread off road or air down and spin the tire on the rim slightly, saves on balancing.

I don't know of anyone who would only static balance a tire. Using either stick-on weights or hammer-on weights is also a dynamic balance.

Not 100% so, they may call it dynamic but its not. Soon as the tire touch the road that balance is now static as it doesn't change as the tires wear or situation change.

A true dynamic balance fully adjust to every situation on the fly.

No stick on or clamp on weight can do that.
Thus for it is static once the car is driven.

Never drive it and it might be "dynamic" still, untill the tires flat spot.

That's why you can road force them. A dynamic balance is balancing over 2 axes. That's it. Up and down, and side to side. Static is only up and down and would only be effective if the wheel assembly was 2 dimensional. The dynamic also compensates for the depth of the wheel. If there are irregularities in the tire or the rim has excessive runout, checking road force will let you know if force matching is necessary or if the tire or rim need to be discarded or, in the case of the rim, repaired.

A lot of 4x4 guys use airsoft pellets.

read all the posts and i feel like a retard for not understanding what the hell this product IS. Can someone explain. ?? to me

Click the link in the very first post and read. They got a FAQs like all sites.

I read the site and still don't get it. Do you put these beads in the tire and as it rolls the beads gravitate to the imbalanced area of the tire on an active basis?

Am I even close?

I was under the impression that it's like re-paving an old road (rough on the bottom and smooth on top). As the tire spins, the powder, beads, pellets, or whatever, spreads evenly inside the tire to an equal amount all the way around the inside of the tire by centrifical force causing the tire to balance from the inside out.
I may be wrong, but no one at the tire store could give me an explanation exactly how it works and all I know for sure is, that it does.
One thing I do know is that it won't work if it's installed and the tire aired up with a bunch of water in the air lines. I had it installed in two front semi tires (new) and after 1200 mi. on the first trip they wouldn't balance out. I took it back to get them checked out and one tire had water in it. I guess they forgot to drain the air compresser the night before. After they dried the tire out and re-installed a new pack of EQUAL all was good.

My 2000 Excursion does the same thing, let me know how they work because I'm sick of getting them balanced every time I take a road trip.

I was not that impressed with how with how it worked out. I put it in the tires and followed the directions. They said to remove all of the wheel weights and just add in the correct amout for whick I did. The truck had a different shake then it had before. I called the guy and he said that "sometimes you have to add some wheel weights back on" so I ended up placing weights on and off in different spots for a while. I spoke with one of my friends who has a tire shop and he said to get rid of the Guudyears E range tires and get a set of Pirelli Scorpions (still a load rang E tire). So my tires had about 30% tread left and I was tired of the shake. I put them on my Excursion and smooth as glass with no shake at all. If I would of known how smooth the Pirelli were i would have changed them out long ago.

I've got Uniroyals and the tires cup really bat, but they've got a lot of tread left on them so I bought the "lifetime balanc/rotation". They were on the truck when I bought it, so I guess I'm going Perelli's!

I don't see where their making this product for our cars. The 245/50/16 isn't even listed. Am I wrong dude?

Now what kind of a loaded question is that???

If there ever was a 3rd gen that came with that tire size stock, its not common.

Your running over sized rims and tires so up size like a 16" truck to 4oz per tire.

Obviously spoken by someone whose only experience is 6-cylinder cars....

Once you get yourself out of the grocery-cart/image cars and into the performance ones, you'll find that that was the stock size for the better IROCs, Z28s, GTAs, Formulas, etc. starting in 85.

Apart from that, the principle works, regardless of tire size. Basically, the loose material attempts to oppose the motion caused by the imbalance, thereby balancing the rotating mass. Self-balancing washing machines, for example, work on the same principle; they have a ring filled with fluid, such that the fluid goes to the light side and automatically compensates for unbalanced loads.

SFD

I answered a loaded question with a loaded answer and you just stepped into the line of fire. I was just gauging info on those who have used it. But that the answer ya get with loaded questions like that.

Don't assume anything about me I know what 9sec runs feel like.
On less CC then my puny V6 and not some cheater 220mph ricerocket.

These light cars do need tires with no weight or traction.
Wanna see a pic of a stock radial tire size car getting front tires off the ground? Its my fav one of all. Car did tow duty for 7 years till it was raced just for fun at event in 04-05. Don't need monster tires if you drive a 4000+lb tanks with Buick torque.


I was just gauging info on those who used it. We have a wealth of knowledge on this board. But lots of biters n haters like yourself who don't post but to flame and assume.

Though my loaded answer was flame bait. Biter


But here is the unloaded answer for ya EZ

If ya got nice bigger rims and good tires with a good balance and ya still can't find or fix the vib it could be used. But id make sure all else is well.
On my V8 car I have all that, brand new tires n balance, all is well but odd vib in the rear I can't fix by buying parts. So I wanted to see what other folks have experienced with it or similar products. Best to save stuff like that for last resort. And for only $5 a tire its no big loss. I got my own manual tire machine and can dump em back out easy. Bag em back up n dump em on Ebay if they are crap. Just wanted to see what other thought. [Well not everyone obviously.]


Heard There is another called PJ1 tire sealer and balancer???

A wolf in sheeps clothing! Don't be fooled my man, else you be left behind!

And a Buick has torque different from anything else..... how??

Gasoline molecules wake up and take a stretch and look around themselves and think, "Hey, I'm inside of a 1934 Hupmobile engine, and this engine's owner is highly partial to this brand of cast iron, so I'm going to release more energy than I would if I was inside of a 1942 flathead F*rd!!"

Yeah right. I don't think so. A Buick, Pontiac, Olds, Chevy, Ford, or Chrysler 400, or 350 or 455, either big or small block, will ALL produce about the same amount of torque from a given CID, within a couple of percent, all else being equal; that is, compression, cylinder fill, and so on. Those "all else being equal" things determine cylinder pressure. Torque (ft-lbs) is equal to cylinder pressure (lbs per sq in), times piston area (sq in, or sq ft), times ½ the stroke (in, or ft); PERIOD. Note that piston area times stroke = CID. It's just numbers. The brand name cast onto the parts doesn't influence any of that.

Now that car might have 455 CID of torque; that's a WHOLE DIFFERENT MATTER. Clearly that's more than 350 CID of torque, or 400 CID of torque. "Buick" is irrelevant.

But regardless, that's no excuse for being unaware that 245/50-16 is the STOCK SIZE TIRE for about a million of these cars.

Consider yourself bitten.

Again, none of which really matters to the issue at hand.

The principle of the balancing stuff is pretty simple. As I said, it's commonly used in other applications, for balancing things (like washing machines) where the balance changes more or less continuously by the nature of the application.

On the other hand, the vast majority of tire vibes ARE NOT caused by balance, anyway; they're caused by tread separation or other forms of out-of-round (like 1-piece carcass construction). No amount of balancing, either done the right way or by some ghetto way, will make a triangular or square tire run smooth. Might be worthwhile to figure out what the REAL cause of the vibe is, before wasting money on something that might or might not have any effect on the problem. Could even be a bent wheel, bent axle, etc.; the tires themselves might be perfect.

You obviously don't know SFD and Id perfer to keep it that way. Keeps me ahead of the game. While you think your SB chebby is the be all end all of engines, in the same boat as them furd guys. Who couldn't get off the line with wheels in the air without a credit card and a summit catalog to buy speed. [Some come with all you need factory.] In the same way that my old 72 Kaw will eat anything you can find mass produced today on 2 wheels. Your gonna need a whole catalog of fancy parts to even try to keep up light to light.

You just don't know and lets keep it that way. hate hate hate

FYI. Be sure to change out the shocks too if you get the new tires. I change the shocks in my Excursion about every 40k. In doing so I do not get any cupping in my tires.

PM me if you have any questions.

Now that convinced me, for sure.

You can check your tires by just feeling around them with your hand, feel for lumps in the tread, usually out near the edge of the tread. A typical separated tread will be maybe 45° - 90° around the circumference, maybe 1/4 - 1/3 of the way across.

Another thing to do would be to lift that corner of the car and rotate the wheel slowly, maybe 1 rev per second or something; and watch for lumps. Although, an absence of visible lumps, doesn't "prove" that the tire is round, under load; which is why a "load test" is popular.

You can also check to see if it's a "balance" problem by putting the tire in question on a rear (I'm assuming, perhaps unjustifiably?, that this is a RWD vehicle) and putting the frame up on jack stands SECURELY, and running the motor with the rear just hanging; generally, if the tire is sufficiently out of balance to vibe, it'll flop the rear pretty good under those circumstances.

If the tire has ANY OTHER PROBLEM than "balance", then all that the stuff in the can will do, is to make your bike an 8 sec bike, by way of weight reduction centered on the driver's wallet.

And of course, just being "new", is no guarantee that it's not defective. My little brother who used to work in a tire store that was right directly in front of a name-brand tire mfrs' test track can attest to that, as witnessed by all the employees of that name-brand plant who would come into his store to buy some other brand of tire.

Thanx, mines got 80k now and shocks are cheap

I get about 60k out of a set of tires. I am on my third set of shocks. Hoping to ket 500K out of my rig (it is a 7.3 TD with about 160k). I tow quite a bit with it and sure that that wears down the shocks premature. Shocks are cheap!

Is yours gas or D?

Gas V10 and get 15mpg doing 79mph!

hey hey,
I don't get a chance to get on here everyday, but it looks like ya'll have been busy b.s.

Gumby (u should & do know that a 245/50/16 is stock)
u must take me for a bone head. The reason I asked about the tire size is if u look at their size chart there are NO low profile tires listed.

I'm thinking that the extra width of the tire causes problems with the "beads" not aligning in the center of the tire.

A semi tire is tall & slim, so is a 75 series car tire.

I guess I was just wondering why classify the bead weight by the tire size? Why not by rim size?

Speaking of loaded question, I just purchased a double barreled shot gun, been shoot clay's lots of fun!!

I was wondering the same, then found something on their site about the wider tires. They need to be dynamically balanced first. Which handles the side to side differences. And naturally handles the static balance. In the end the beads won't do much for a low(er) profile tire.

RBob.

don't they have harmonic dampers that work somewhat along those lines?

when did radials tires have wrinkle walls? adding weight by itself can cause issues with traction as to get that object moving it requires more energy to push it forward at which point the forward pushing energy can overcome the grip of the tires.

and whats with buick torque? doesn't more torque cause even more problems with grip? is buick torque different somehow?

SFD you started the hating BS crap when you fired your launch just cause I have a V6 3rd gen like you knew me. Had a V8 camaro, wasn't no where as fun. You will never find a V8 in my 3rd gen. Mostly as I like riding on rails, I like to stop, turn and get good MPG no matter how you drive. Its a nice daily driver.And its a tin can.

I like Buick tanks for going fast that need very few mods as they come jamed pack from the factory stock.
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ezliving4ume What car and year came with them size tires stock / factory???

News to me.

I have 225/60/15 but it was my only option for the tire I wanted, not stock.

uhm, probably every one of them with a 16" wheel from the factory ;0
which is what sofakingdom was trying to point out to you, while you continued to make yourself the little guy on the right

I don't like to argue on the internet, but this is quite amusing.
My car is a V6 and in 1990 came from the factory with 215/65 R15's BSW touring tires. I know this because I still have the window invoice
.
Did the Formula's have the 16" "snowflake" rims like mine?

why I asked what car, I dunno. How you learn things, asking questions.


Why when him saying they ain't got them for ours cars is a loaded question.
Cause I know that most 3rd gen owners would have no problem getting them for their car and stock size tires n 15" rims.

I dunno what car he is talking about. I know for darn sure many more 3rd gen from 82-92 came with 15" rims over 16" Thus saying our cars like all of them in general from 82-92 ain't listed on that sites is a loaded BS questions.
More came with 15" over 16", so they do have what we need for "our cars" on that site.

not if your one of those with the 16" rims now.

See below,
got this info off of the main page of tgo. Not tring to argue, just trying to learn!

5.7 TPI motor (B2L) or 5.0 TPI motor (LB9) with 5 speed (MM5) manual. 16 inch wheels (N96) P245/50ZR-16 Goodyear Gatorback tires (QLC) Limited slip differential (G80) Rear disc brakes (J65)