Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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This could go in either the brake board or chassis board so I split the difference.
Just looking for real world experience, not hear say or rumors.
If you don’t have one or installed one your no help to me here.
They say it’s cleaner and smaller then a vacuum brake booster but you also have to run extra lines off your power steering system.
#1 how easy was it to install?
#2 how much did ya spend?
#3 did your current or stock pump still run fine with the added load?
#4 is it really a cleaner install once ya run lines n junk?
#4 any shortcuts or ways to cut cost that you saw when doing yours?
Also did anyone add in an extra cooler? Know how the stockers has that loop of steel line for a cooler, anyone add more cooling for the extra load?
I've never installed one, so I'm pretty useless in that regard; however, you can find prices, kit components, specs, answers to your questions, etc. right here.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.
I’m looking for real world experience here not someone trying to sell me something.
It’s why I asked it here and not some place like there……..
I don't need links or tech guides, prices or review by some fancy mags that only makes money from running adds for companies. I want real world experience, which is always different.
Well, i'm of no help either, but you're talking about hydro-boost - power steering assist for your power brakes.
I do know that Fast355 has installed a few, and i'm pretty sure has one on his van. I don't know of any F-body guys with it, but i'm sure his advice would be general enough to help you out. Maybe PM him, or wait and see if he finds this thread. I'm pretty sure it was stock on certain later years of trucks/vans, so I think he just used stock parts to put it in. (Rather than pricey aftermarket stuff).
Ones I have used in trucks are LOUD... like locking your steering wheel every time you mash the brake... that loud wine. But they work very well. And it is the same install as normal, just a little box behind the master cylinder, rather than the big *** booster, with all the lines and the extra remote power steering fluid reservoir, I would not recommend it for looks, or cleanliness of install, the only advantage is like 3-5x line pressure. And seemed like more power loss too. Got to run the pump, rather than just a little vacuum.
Hydroboost can be found on most late model c and k trucks.. gm of course... Scribbles sounds like you're describing a bad pump.. when they start to go on a hydroboost system it seems they are a lot louder when applying the brakes as apposed to turning the wheel, most likely do to the workload on the pump.. just did a pump on one yesterday..
I've never done a swap on a f-body. But I can tell you it ain't going to be a cakewalk. If you got a good selection of wrecking yards in your area and they don't try to reem you on prices, you could probably do it under $100. Otherwise , I'd say $250-300.
If you're serious I could give you some pointers. If you're going to redo your P/S, you'd better make up your mind before you start.
I installed hydro-boost on my 78 Blazer when I put the cummins in. I'll never go back to vacuum boost again in a truck. My 6000 lb truck stops quicker than my firebird. ALthough I have 4 wheel disc on the truck, drum on the firebird.
It bolted directly in place of the vac boost. You need to run a pressure line from the pump to the boost, then a pressure line from the boost to the steering. The will be a return line from the boost and one from the steering box. If you don't get a pump with two return lines, you'll need to Tee in to the single.
As far as I know, that is the only diff in the pumps - two returns.
A hydroboost from a 1985 6.2 diesel Chevy Blazer (Big Blazer - not the s-10) may be the closest you'll find. It should bolt up just fine, but you'll have to rig up the rod to pedal. Get the master cyl also. Your brake Lines should screw into the master ok.
Just be ready to STOP. 1/2 inch pedal press can lock up solid 4-36" military hummer tires. It would stop my truck pulling 5000 lbs without noticing the extra weight. Couldn't even begin to stop that much with vac. Saved someones life once as they pulled out in front of me and had saucer sized eyes staring at my bumper and me locking up going 50mph.
ANy questions just ask. All I ask is that you let me know how it comes out.
Disclaimer: This is stupid way overkill for a light car not towing anything.
Should also mention that my truck is antilock as well.
There are good reasons going hydraboost. If you have a lumpy low-vacuum cam, or supercharged, and especially if you drag race and stall up the converter on the line, this system takes care of all of the problems you have with a vacuum booster.
Check out these guys. http://www.hydratechbraking.com/. They don't list a 3rd gen kit, but you should be able to fit up a universal kit.
The only thing I haven't confirmed is if this system works without power steering. I understand you need a PS pump, but I don't know why you would have to have the power steering gear in the system.
(I prefer "hydraboost" to "hydroboost", because "hydra" is short for "hydraulic".)
The hydratech universal kit would be a bad choice to start with. They all use flat brackets. The 3rd gen f-body kicks the booster and m/c upward ( i don't have an f-body to look at rightnow,but I'd say that the flat bracket would cause the m/c to interfere with the inner fender well.) The hydroboost needs to hve the pedal rod come in at a very straight angle, it would have to follow the stock angle closely. Espesially as its depressd.
I believe the truck application mentioned above would have the same problem and the truck m/c would definately not bolt right up to he existing lines as they exit on opposite sides. If I recall correctly.
Thanks to a big cam and the "new" addition of AC, after a 15 year hiatus, I now have about 4" of vacuum at idle. I need to do something and I'm leaning toward something like this.
__________________ If it breaks, make it stronger.
If it doesn't, try harder.
First (Official) Antique 3rd-Gen. 29 years and counting!
i was wondering the same thing, i picked up a new unit at the goodguys show for 250 bucks (less than half of regular price!) but havent tried installing it yet. can't believe nobody has tried this yet.
i am planning on installing it this week, guess i'll find out if everything lines up or not. i'll take pics as i go. i am planning on using braided power steering lines, but not going to buy all that until i make sure everything lines up!
We'll see!
Eric B
__________________ 86 camaro, 1984 383, pro topline vortecs with all comp.components,stainless valves, scat crank,wiseco forged pistons,9.5:1,6"scat I beam 7/16" capscrew rods,comp xs282s, performer rpm, 750 proform vac sec, msd in cap coil/module, no computer,hooker coated 2460's w 6767 y pipe,AJE K-member & a arms, coil over kyb agx,700r4,pioneer shift kit,corvette servo,2600 stall,'92 disk 10 bolt,
3.42 posi, poly suspension , hotchkiss lca's,275-60/15 mt et street radials on 8" weld pro stars