Hey guys, I finally got the 406 out of my camaro. I wanted to find out exactly what kind of rotating assembly I have. So i took the oil pan off and found out that I have a Callies Stealth crank. I/m assuming it's a forged crank. Now as for the rods I am confused. Their defenetly not stock GM rods, but there are no other stampings in the rods except for B1 and USA, thats it. The rod bolts say ARP Lunati.... Think these rods are from Lunati?? And as for the piston there is just a part number 6051A3 on the top and thats it. And how do i tell if the pistons are forged or not? Thanks for any Help!!!!!

Well, I can't help you with the rods or pistons, other than to say that if someone coughed up the coin for a Callies crank , then it's a fairly good bet that they had the sense to go with decent rods & pistons too. (But that comes dangerously close to ASSuming...)

As far as the crank goes, if it's forged, the "parting line" should be rather indistinct, you could even call it blurred. Cast cranks have a sharp, distinct parting line. I've also been told that forged cranks will make a somewhat "bell-like" sound when struck, but haven't seen/heard that for myself.

Hope that helps a little bit...

Don't know about the rods, but that's a Wiseco part number on the slugs.

Yeah i gave Wiseco a call today about the pistons......forged with a 10CC dome.....$673.53 for a set.....so if someone spent that much on pistons and a crank, i'm sure these have to be pretty decent rods.....Now with forged pistons, dont i need a gapless ring? If not how wide of a gap should I run??

Sounds to me like (a) somebody that knew what they were doing spent ALOT of money to get that motor built; and (b) you don't know what you're doing, and therefore probably won't be able to do as good a job.

You've got about a $4000+ short block sitting there. It's not some junkyard 305 out of an old work truck or something. Most likely, anything you do to it, won't be as good as what's already there.

Why are you tearing it apart? Is there anything wrong with it? If not, you're likely better off to leave it alone, and just run it. Especially if it's been run before, and doesn't have anything obviously wrong, like the presence of oil in the cylinders or that sort of thing.

Yeah i know what i'm doing, I've just never delt with high dollar parts like these. And i know it's no junkyard 305, it's infact an aftermarket block. And the reason for tearing it apart is because i had a cracked ring on number 8 cylinder, so i figured if i'm going to replace those, i might as well do them all

Rods are Pro Mods.

How do you know for sure they are pro mods??

you just hit the jackpot my friend.. usually, you are lucky to find a forged rotating assembly.. but you hit the mother load.. callies crank?! Wiseco pistons?! promod rods?! jeez.. throw some 72cc afr heads on there and boost the chit out of it..

Funny you say that cuz there were a set of 210CC AFR heads on it. How exactly do I tell if these are pro mod rods or not??

Also with a Victor JR intake and 750 dp with proform carb body. Accell H.E.I but i'm going to switch it over to MSD. I know the AFR's are designed with a solid roller in mind, This motor has a solid flat tappet. And i cant figure out as to why they stuck with a flat tappet instead. I got the specs on the pistons

1.120 Compression Height
10CC dome
well thats really all i have. The heads are a little older, they just have AFR in small letters stamped into them. It doesnt say anywhere else on them what CC the combustion chamber is but it is fairly large so my guess it is their 74CC head. Do you think they stuck with the flat tappet instead because the valves would hit the pistons with a roller??

I have a set of promod with identical markings, arp/lunati bolts, BUT mine have lunati engraved on the side. I have heard of lunati having rods with no name markings on them before.

Probably used a sold flat tappet since it's cheaper. You can have one with large duration and it'll still run really nice. You don't need as much spring to control the light solid flat tappets vs solid rollers.

Sofa's right, that's a high buck engine you've got on your hands. Why are you tearing it down?

solid flat cams are really cheap compared to solid rollers.. $300 for cam and lifters or less than $450 for a K-kit(cam, lifter, springs, retainers, locks, seals and timing set)..

that guy went high buck on everything else, he wouldnt have skimped on roller setups either.. that would include $500+ roller lifters, $299 cam, pushrods and either stud girdle w/ high quality rockers($400) OR shaft rockers($700+).. you are basically looking at minimum $1200 for a roller setup.. one reason i dont have a solid roller in my motor..

and yes, big solid flats can still run great on the street.. 306S here and just a tad of drivability lost.. its like riding a 2stroke dirtbike.. to get going, you gotta give it a little more gas than usual.. but up top is where it shines.. lol