Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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I have a 1992 Camaro RS with a 305 High Output engine(VIN code E) and I'm having trouble with my valves. I've recently did the head gasket because the car overheated and then sat for 2 years with boiled oil still in the motor. I put everything back together and when i adjust my valves I follow the order outlined in my Chilton manual with a full turn to seat my valves. I turn the motor over one or two revolutions and the lash returns to some of the valves but not all. I did not prime the lifters before I put them back in which I now realize I should have. Would that be the cause of my problem with my valves or could there be something else? I really aprecitae any help or advice on this problem because I already have alot of time and money invested in this project and would really love to hear it finally crank and run.
It doesn't matter if you prime the lifters or not. Try it again and make sure you're doing the right valves at the right time. It's a bit of a PITA to keep it all straight.
It doesn't matter if you prime the lifters or not. Try it again and make sure you're doing the right valves at the right time. It's a bit of a PITA to keep it all straight.
I've redone the valve sequence 4 times with a litlle diffrence in the results each time. The sequence i used is : #1 Firing Position, Ex Valves 1,3,4,& 8 in valves 1,2,5,&7. Turn crank 1 revolution. Ex Valves 2,5,6,& 7 in valves 3,4,6,& 8. Is this correct? I've also heard that 1/2 a turn to seat the plunger is better than one full turn. Which is better?
what i do is take the cap off of the distributor, turn the motor over to a specific cylinder and then adjust the lash, then i go 180°on the firing order and adjust it, then bump the starter to the next cylinder adjust and keep going
Stop wasting your time on trying to adjust the rockers the hard way. What you're doing, almost resembles WORK; and even worse, requires that subjective judgements be made. A guaranteed recipe for trouble.
Abandon this folly, and do it the easy way.
Identify one that seems to be OK; note how much of the stud thread is exposed above the nut; set the other 15 to the same point. Move on.
Assemble the remainder of the motor. Distributor, plug wires, fuel lines, sensors, wiring, vacuum lines, coolant lines & coolant, all fluids, belts, hoses, etc. Basically, FINISH everything EXCEPT the valve covers. The operative concept here being, FINISH. Not, just barely get just barely enough of it hacked just barely back together just barely enough for it to just barely sort of run; the object is to FINISH the job. Except for the valve covers.
Start the motor up. One at a time, back them off until they clatter, and tighten them back until they JUST BARELY stop clattering. Go back over the whole engine a time or 2 as necessary, until each of them is JUST BARELY tight enough to make it shut up. At this time, DO NOT add any preload; leave all 16 at the point where they JUST BARELY shut up.
Turn the engine off. Tighten each rocker nut ½ turn more. Put the valve covers back on.
Enjoy.
__________________ Numquam ponenda est pluralitas sine necessitate. — William of Ockham, from Quaestiones et decisiones in quattuor libros Sententiarum Petri Lombardi
Roughly paraphrased into modern English, and applied to figuring out what's wrong with your car:
The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is probably the right one.