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hey guys building a 355 cause i blew my beloved lg4 305 lol d**n took forever to blow it heh heh heh ...anyway throwing a comp extreme enrgy cam in it with 501/510 lift 236/242 duration at .050 and the lsa is 110 ... anyone have a sound clip with that cam in thier car i can here just wondering or a cam thats preety close????
acually its the xs274 the solid lifter version... and yeah i wanne BEEFY cam.. im also running the edlebrock performer rpm airgap manifold kenny duttweiller heads 670 hollyheadman long tube headers full msd ignitionand a northern auto parts full bottom end can you tell me how much the scat steel crank shafts are rated around cause from what summit racing tech line said id be makin 450 ish hp/trq
plus im using a hughes 3000 stall converter
Last edited by 85T/A; 12-10-2007 at 09:12 AM.
Reason: didnt put my stall speed in
According to David Vizard, those Scat cranks are the cat's pajamas and he's never seen one break.
Dont use them if you're going to have tons and tons of power, but he's basically said if you dont need a forged crank, the cast one will take you a long way.
It's up to you whether you want to chance it I guess. but I just wanted to point out that David Vizard (The guy who writes all those books) is always sucking their teats and ranting about how great they are so....
ive hear about a scat type crankshaft they are the same as the brand scat correct... i mean it came in a whole bottome end kit form northern auto parts
im guessing the 670 is a vs street avenger if it is its not gonna like that big *** cam and its no were near enough for the motor you plan id suggest a 750 dp
yeah it is a street avenger.... i was thinkin botu a 750 but i didnt wanna over carb it either you know.. what dp you think i shudl go with honestly im just about to start building and buying all the top end for this engine
... just got a new job lol.... and do you have a link for that sound clip???
yeah it is a street avenger.... i was thinkin botu a 750 but i didnt wanna over carb it either you know.. what dp you think i shudl go with honestly im just about to start building and buying all the top end for this engine
... just got a new job lol.... and do you have a link for that sound clip???
a 750 dp would work perfect for that all the 355 build ups i seen they use a 750 dp with less cam then you are using and with 200cc plus heads and everything else setup right run 11's. i run a 670 on my stock l98 motor and the carb out the box was set up for strictly gas mileage has 65 pri 68 sec jets probaly enough for a lg4. And if you look at just about all vacuum secondary carbs they dont recommend using a cam with more the 220 intake duration @ .50. I modified my 670 rejetted it added adjustable secondary housing different power valve. Still i have people tell me the 650 dp would net me some better times when it comes to racing double pumpers seem to be the way to go.
hard to say i wouldnt use that cam id get a xtreme energy hyrdaulic flat tappet. Depends on what heads, stall, race weight all that stuff to tell really
well a 3000 stall converter from hughes.... and id be running on the mt et drag radials... and race weight would be about 34-3500 and im using the kenny duttweiller series heads from trickflow ...
hard to say i wouldnt use that cam id get a xtreme energy hyrdaulic flat tappet. Depends on what heads, stall, race weight all that stuff to tell really
thats what that cam is, i think its the extreme energy flat tappet 282h or something.
thats what that cam is, i think its the extreme energy flat tappet 282h or something.
he said it was solid lifter cam from what racers told me there not a good street strip cam and that you will have to adjust your valves alot and there noisy and ruff on the valvetrain there more for full out bracket racers.
well like i said ive already got the cam..... i judst need to get the rest of the top end....but also like i said before any one have any guestimates in the head about wgat kinda number id pull...11s 12s 13s???
should be a solid mid low 12 second car with the right tune/parts. i think you should seriously consider 750 dp carb at least. should turn over 6200-6300rpms for sure and make decent power. gotta have the tune tho
should be a solid mid low 12 second car with the right tune/parts. i think you should seriously consider 750 dp carb at least. should turn over 6200-6300rpms for sure and make decent power. gotta have the tune tho
with that cam im guessing this is a strictly weekend warrior id ditch the hedman headers get get a set of the hooker super comp 1 3/4 long tubes and ditch the dual plane for a victor jr. The 750 is a must id look into the proform and quick fuel 750 carbs or the holley hp series. also you may want 3500-3800 stall for that also then id say high 11's. also what kind of compression are you putting out with that big cam and all the other parts you should be running more then 10:1 compression and probaly will have to run 104 octane
should be a solid mid low 12 second car with the right tune/parts. i think you should seriously consider 750 dp carb at least. should turn over 6200-6300rpms for sure and make decent power. gotta have the tune tho
well the "basic operating range" on the cam is like 2000 - 6400 and its gonna be a daily driver for a lil bit until i can get another car.. prolly a few months or so.... now here my last question... my bottom end is from northern autoparts... http://northernautoparts.com/ the crankshaft id from a company that goes by the name of scat the rods im not sure i believe thier scat also... now should that bottom end be able to handle 6500 rpms when i take it out to the track and all??
it should as long as you have good rod bolts and everything is in spec down there adn fresh. i wouldnt go over 6500 too much but i doubt you'll have to. those heads are good but i think you'll limit out around 6400rpms anyway
I used that Scat kit from Northern as well, but with 6.0" rods. It made 458 on the engine dyno, and I regularly rev it to 7000. So far so good. My cam is slightly larger 248°/248° @ .050 and .525/.525 lift solid flat tappet. I only had to adjust the lash twice all summer, and the second time there was only a couple that were very slightly out of spec. The only thing about it that I would consider "too big for the street" is that my brake pedal gets hard in stop and go traffic. No big deal - push a little harder.