any updates with this?

I'm still working on it periodically dude.
Busy with other stuff that's keeping me from getting back to it.
I have my dash out and need to take a couple of more readings and some people are helping me solve the issue.
There are easier ways for other cars since they are voltage controlled but ours are resistance controlled.
I have figured on using another bulb place also.
When I get time I'll post some pics and simple write up.
I'm trying to find the simplest and almost free way to do it.
It can be done.
be assured I am striving for as close to plug and play as possible.
I'd like to market this possibly.

hey not trying to push u, we seemed to get alot of progress then it got quiet plus i was talkin to everyone not just you

theres a few of you guys with soem good ideas

i was bored and was curious on any progress

I'm getting close
still waiting for my IC's to make the circuit.
I worked on those figures tonight and hopefully I will have some sort of prototype soon.
I'm also thinking I will need information for different year and models because I'm sure the dash layout is different as to the use of spare bulb slots and connections/points in pinout.
But I'll get that when I need it.
I just need to get the circuit up and running first.

im not too concerned abotu a spare bulb slot id be happy with just a tiny hole drilled next to the E on empty and poke a yellow led through it

OK
progress is good.
I have a functional circuit going.
I worked on this last night.
My IC's came in yesterday.
With my gauge out of the car I was able to mimic the movement of the gauge and light an led at between 1/4 and E.
I'm trying to refine the setup so I can just use a set value and not need for each user to set the trim resistor for their vehicle.
I need to supply plug and play. Not everyone can fool with this kind of stuff.
I'll try to find time later to work on it more.
If anyone want to see a functional vid...I'll make 1 so you can see it works.
But it will be with trim resistor prototype and you will be able to see the gauge drop and the led light up.
K
l8rz guys.

We are on the way to MODERN.

You're welcome.

awesome news and your rihgt not everyone knows how to do that stuff (me) so plug and play woulod be awesome. and yeah i agree that a little yellow LED light that you could drill in would be perfect. i have an aftermarket dash so i dont have any dummy lights anymore. so yeah if you get these to be plug and play id be interested in it. are these for only TPI cars or TBI cars or can they be used for Carb to? how would these install?

My plan is to piggy back the existing 12v and ground @ the gauge itself with a low voltage requiring circuit.
And it works great too.
I would have to modify the circuit to run a bulb but that's just a simple resistor delete.
I'll have more news soon. I'm working on it right now.

This circuit can be made adjustable for any car with a fuel gauge.
It will ultimately depend on a properly functional sender. There is no question about that. The circuit relies on this information just like the actual fuel gauge.

i have an electronics background so a schematic with values is all i need to build this sucker.

keep up the good work

any updates on the MPG display?

a video would be nice, and a schematic or simple (and thorough) explanation of the curcuit would be nice. Thanks for all the work!!

Just one question as many times this gets overlooked when designing a circuit of this nature have you engineered any kind of a dead band into your circuit? Alot of times this gets over looked and when the signals right around the set point the output will flicker or whatever depending on your your circuits set up to work because the signal is riseing and falling over this point. This is amplified by the fact many peoples gauges fluctuate a bit more than they should to begin with.

Ok the thing is I'm leaning on making 20-100 or so of these to start with and see how interest goes and demand.
They will be very cheap. I'm shooting for under under 20 including shipping. Even lower if I can make it happen.
The circuit takes the signal from the sender and based on an adjustable predetermined control voltage....the IC will light the light when the value is matched and continues until value goes high again.
I just don't have a video of it yet because my dash is out and can only simulate how it works...but if that's good enough for you...I'll try to make 1. I can simulate the tank at various fuel levels and show how the circuit works.
I'll see what I can do about making this later today.

There is a buffer in the circuit allowing the fluctuation.
This can be varied also. Adjusting the capacitor value will make less sensitive.

Cool on the low fuel light. Now back to the fuel gauge fluctuation issue, I have the same problem with fuel level rising when accelerating and dropping when braking. I have come to the conculsion that it's definitely the fuel sloshing which affects the float postion and sends an instant direct reading to the gauge. This is with a new sending unit (had to change the pump and the old sending unit was shot, so I replaced both.) The fuel gauge never worked before, I always kept track of mileage. So when the fuel pump went out, I thought perfect chance to fix 2 things at once. Now I have the aggrevating fuel gauge fluctuation.

Any ideas??

Your right on the float rising & falling on the fuel level sloshing on take-off & braking. Just hafta live with that on a stock setup.

I just hate the 150 miles on the first half tank (according to the gauge) of gas but only 50 miles on the second half (according to the gauge. Its not progressive AT ALL.

the input to the gauge could be slowed I'd think.
I'd think the baffles in the tank are not doing their job though.
I'm still working on the low fuel light guys.
It is functional and I'm working on an out of dash install for people who can't/don't want to take it all apart like I had to.
obv. i can make quicker circuits for them who want to take it all apart.
I know I have said I'll try to make a vid...and I will.
I've just been trying to utilize as small a circuit area as possible to keep cost down on production of more than my unit.
I'm looking into just making my own boards with etching but radio shack didn't have any.
I can buy online but I also have the expense of my motor work at the moment.
fixing to go pull my motor now that I have the parts I need to fix it.