I have a 305 that in puffing smoke at start-up. I understand it is probably valve seals? What would be a "ballpark" price typical for a shop to replace the seals? Should other work be done at the same time? Thanks!

Not sure what a shop would cost to do this, but it is pretty extensive with setting the rockers and disassemble/reassemble of the valve springs. You also may have valve guide wear. If you decide to do the work yourself, you might want to think about doing head gaskets too. You would need to pull the heads and do the work on the bench (to make things easier and so you don't drop a valve in the cylinder). If the guides are worn, a machine shop could get the guides and the rest of the heads back together. Then all is left is getting the engine back together.

(whoops bird beat me to it) Valve seals and usually they can spot any play in the valve guides. I've seen these wear down and the dang thing still give ya the bow-tie salute no matter how many valve seals ya throw at it. Beyond that ball park figure probably around $30-40 for the gaskets/seals and 1-2hours labor all through a shop. Naturally prices may vary lol. Call around.

An old trick is if ya have an air compressor handy you can take a quick connect off a compression tester crank the compressor up to about 100-115psi and it will hold the valve in place for ya while you knock it loose. As stated DON'T DROP IT. lol

Idk what it would cost for having a shop to do this so this post is probably worthless lol but if you did want to do the valve seals yourself my favorite trick is the nylon rope method. Just get nylon rope fill the cylinder and turn the motor till you just start to feel resistance. Impossable to drop a valve if done right as some of the keepers can get preet stuck and require a decent amount of "persuation" to remove. Also the valve spring compressor tool can be bought at sears for, im not jokeing a good quality craftsman too thats also cheap, $15. I bought a valve spring compressor at my local napa for like $25 that was complete junk and no warrenty unlike the craftsman lifetime warrenty. Plus the basic design of the craftsman one is just much better. The seals themselves are pretty cheap assuming its not valve guids. Although hook a vacuum guage up to your motor and youll know pretty quick if you have bad valve guids.

I agree with Rolling Thunders method. It saves you disassembling the top half of your motor and replacing all the gaskets. When I did mine, all 16 seals were less than $3 and I did them in the driveway in a couple hours. One thing to add though, when you turn the motor over with the rope in the cylinder, don't use the starter, turn it over by hand.

Definitely several ways of doin it. I have used both methods and can say the air idea worked for me. Enough pressure will keep the valve seated without risking impact with the piston. Plus any major seating problems are identified real fast by the spewing of air into the head.

Once again thats just my 2 cents. If ya don't have access to a compressor don't want to spend the money in a shop or just like the rope idea (which is a pretty good one i might add) that is the way to go on the seals. They are dirt cheap and plentiful at any auto parts store. Just make sure the rope and work area are clean. Don't want anything gettin into the cylinders.

Oh yes, the compressed air method works well, I didn't mean to say it didn't. I was more responding to the idea of pulling the heads for the valve seals. And yes, if you use rope, it should be clean.

lol forgive me its late.

Thank you, guys.
Much appreciate the suggestions!
God bless you.
Chuck

I have the same problem with my 305, and the compressor method is my choice as well .My only problem is adjusting valve lash.I've never done this before and I know it has to be just right.Is there any advice someone can give me or is this an experience required operation?

I had some pretty bad blue smoke (Big clouds at start up) but it wasnt the valve seals.
Here is the post i just put up. May be worth a thought.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...smoke-but.html (Tons of blue smoke.. but now its gone!)

Mine has about 135 miles, I have changed oil/filter,plugs(they were real bad with a lot of carbon deposit on most of them), cleaned air filter(K&N).Next on my list was rotor, cap and wires. I never thought about the oxygen sensor and EGR valve, I will try this route first .Leave the valve seals for last.
Thanks for the help

pull your valve covers check to see if puddling of oil is in the corners? My stock 92 305 were. There is one hole in each corner , mine were full of hard crude, I picked the holes clean with a peace of wire, put back together and no smoke! I think there called oil galleys? This is after I read post leaning toward valve stem seals, which I had replaced by I mechanic for around $360 and after having that done I had at least tripple the blue smoke as before. First it was a liitle smoke on start ups and after sitting at red lights. Its worth a look!!!

I did have the driver side valve cover off a couple month back , and there was oil pooling in the corners.I didn't know there were holes in the corner.This sounds more like my problem.I'm going to try this first,although new rotor, cap & wires are still on the list.
Thanks for the help

So, I had the valve cover off on the driver side and there are no clogged holes.I guess it's back to changing rotor & cap, oxygen sensor. You know, tune up.
Any other comments are welcome.
Thanks

-My goal is to own a third gen with no squeaks-Is it possible?