Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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87 IROC 350 TPI
MSD 6aL
accell Coil
lingenfelter stage 2 cam
and a whole bunch of other stuff irrelevant to the thread.
Its time to change out the plugs and I wondered what everyone was running. I had been running champion truck plugs for a bit but wonder if anyone has had greater successes with other types ? (Iron heads)
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AC R43TS...I think. It's been a long time since I replaced the plugs. When I get ambitious, I'm going to replace them with NGK UR4's. I hope the NGK's will clear the header tubes.
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Autolite 3924 or 3923, either seem to be fine. Tighter gap than normal though, think .037" otherwise it can't fire the plugs at high cylinder pressures.
The difference between the AC Delco R45TS, R44TS and R43TS is the plug heat range. The TS means an extended tip which is always recommended. The heat range required for your engine depends on a lot of factors. Run the coldest plug possible that won't foul up. Start with the R43TS plug and if they foul up, put in R44's.
A normal copper plug will perform just as well as all those gimmick plugs but none last forever. Plugs are cheap. It's not worth cleaning and regapping used plugs. When they wear out, just replace them. If you don't like changing plugs every few years, use a platinum plug. They don't wear out as fast as a copper plug.
Racers usually use the NGK race plugs or Autolite plugs.
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Hardtail Racing
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.029@150.45 (at altitude)
Theoretical sea level performance 8.623@157.05
The difference between the AC Delco R45TS, R44TS and R43TS is the plug heat range. The TS means an extended tip which is always recommended. The heat range required for your engine depends on a lot of factors. Run the coldest plug possible that won't foul up. Start with the R43TS plug and if they foul up, put in R44's.
A normal copper plug will perform just as well as all those gimmick plugs but none last forever. Plugs are cheap. It's not worth cleaning and regapping used plugs. When they wear out, just replace them. If you don't like changing plugs every few years, use a platinum plug. They don't wear out as fast as a copper plug.
Racers usually use the NGK race plugs or Autolite plugs.
I picked up some R44TS, im going to try those out tonight. Are the rapid fires really worth $5 a pop ?
This became a more pressing issue as I started to hear a knocking under the hood that my brother believes may be a fouled up plug. Thanks for your help guys
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i am using the ngk version of the r45ts. i have used ngk in all my race engines and really liked the iridiums when i was shooting a 175 to 200 shot of nitrous, even though people dont like them i have never had a problem with them ever. and i believe that the that the ngk v power which are only 1.99.
I picked up some R44TS, im going to try those out tonight. Are the rapid fires really worth $5 a pop ?
IDK but my car ran so much better with rapid fires, and the plugs there were in it were fairly new autolites
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i hear what ever chevy came with in the firstplace, i belive its ac delco. aftermarket stuff is good, i dont think you need three electrodes to center the spark.
IMO that is.
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Dude... WTF... day 3, AND I STILL CANT GET TO THE FREAKIN PLUG!!!!
Not the passenger side amazingly... the driver side... I can see it, I can touch it, I just cant get past my hooker headers and I need this before monday. I think this will be a tale to tell as im currently trying to find a bit strong enough to dig into the backend of a Kobalt spark plug socket...
It takes me about half an hour to pull all my plugs to inspect them. It takes longer to put in new plugs because I have to index them. I use a spark plug socket that has a hex on the end. I need to tighten and loosen the plug by putting a 3/4" wrench on the end of the socket because there's no room for a ratchet, extension or any kind swivel adapter.
After loosening the plug, I then use a chunk of 1/4" heater hose to slip over the plug and screw it out. There's no other way for me to access the plugs.
If your plugs are that difficult to access and you have no reason to access them regularly, install some platinum plugs.
It takes me about half an hour to pull all my plugs to inspect them. It takes longer to put in new plugs because I have to index them. I use a spark plug socket that has a hex on the end. I need to tighten and loosen the plug by putting a 3/4" wrench on the end of the socket because there's no room for a ratchet, extension or any kind swivel adapter.
After loosening the plug, I then use a chunk of 1/4" heater hose to slip over the plug and screw it out. There's no other way for me to access the plugs.
If your plugs are that difficult to access and you have no reason to access them regularly, install some platinum plugs.
DONE ... 3 days... Im just going to start a post about the whole process. I basically had to go through a series of bits, and 2 chopped sockets... crazy stuff. Thanks for the help guys.
mine gapped at .037 instead of .035 for a little extra spark to go with my MSD coil.
i should prob take mine out and regap them to .37 to with the MSD, i dont know but i do love the AC delcos
only thing i may try is a set of E3's, i have really good luck with them in small air cooled engines
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NGK UR5's gapped at .032" with a 150 shot of juice! Oh, I forgot to mention that these plugs are shoter then the std. A/C plugs which helps with headers.