Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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As far as I know and can tell, there is nothing wrong with the car at all. I checked the O2 sensor and it didn't appear to be faulty, the car isn't overheating, oil pressure is good, doesn't stall, everything appears to be fine! Any help diagnosing what could be "wrong" with my car?
The check engine light has to do with emissions stuff so your car will generally run fine when it comes on. If you take your car to advance auto they have a code scanner and will tell you whats wrong with it.
Alex
__________________ Ain't nothin' like it, it's a shining machine
Got the feel for the wheel, keep the movin' parts clean ~ Van Halen
The check engine light has to do with emissions stuff so your car will generally run fine when it comes on. If you take your car to advance auto they have a code scanner and will tell you whats wrong with it.
Alex
I did, but they only have OBD II scanners, and most 3rd gen firebirds use OBD I codes/scanners
Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:
WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
I did as directed and put a paperclip in between terminal A and B (which I believe are the top right and the one to the left of it), but when I put the ignition in the on position, the "Service Engine Soon" light just stays on, like it would any other time. Any ideas as to why that could be? (possibly poor connection?)
Your light should go flash pause flash flash for a code 12 meening nothing is stored and the computer is functioning right so you may want to look into that light staying lit .
__________________ Mighty 2.8 power . Enough said .
Take note of where the little black tab is as shown on the following diagram and where this is on your connector. (So you are sure to be using the correct terminals...)
Take note of where the little black tab is as shown on the following diagram and where this is on your connector. (So you are sure to be using the correct terminals...)
Yeah, it's set up exactly like that, I was using the right terminals. But for some reason there are no metal connectors on the bottom row, and I believe the second on the left is also missing
As a double check, might want to see if you can read any codes with a code reader.
Otherwise, disconnect the ECM cable from the computer, then turn on ignition and see if the light is still on. If yes, then a short in the wiring or instrument cluster.
If off, then might indicate a problem with the ECM eprom or the ECM.
When getting much involved with problems such as these, it is best to follow the troubleshooting instructions in a GM factory service manual.
As a double check, might want to see if you can read any codes with a code reader.
Otherwise, disconnect the ECM cable from the computer, then turn on ignition and see if the light is still on. If yes, then a short in the wiring or instrument cluster.
If off, then might indicate a problem with the ECM eprom or the ECM.
When getting much involved with problems such as these, it is best to follow the troubleshooting instructions in a GM factory service manual.
I did go to autozone and they checked it but couldn't get any readings, but of course they probably use and OBD II device, should I try and buy an OBD I before proceeding?
If the connector fit your connector, then that should have been the correct code reader. So that is a confirmation there might be a problem with the ECM or eprom.
Most important would be to get a factory service manual. This will tell you where various components are located which is the MOST important thing! (Where is that darn ECM located?)
First I would try removing the ECM connector per the factory instructions. These things are sensitive to static, etc., so best to read all the warnings and do everything step by step as it says.
You can order factory service manual sets from the following link or at a GM dealer. http://www.helminc.com
If the connector fit your connector, then that should have been the correct code reader. So that is a confirmation there might be a problem with the ECM or eprom.
Most important would be to get a factory service manual. This will tell you where various components are located which is the MOST important thing! (Where is that darn ECM located?)
First I would try removing the ECM connector per the factory instructions. These things are sensitive to static, etc., so best to read all the warnings and do everything step by step as it says.
You can order factory service manual sets from the following link or at a GM dealer. http://www.helminc.com
Thanks a lot, that will probably have to be my next step of action, so i'm just gonna have to wait for that service manual to come in! And about the retention span life: Yeah, that'd probably be my luck!
BTW for older vehicles factory service manual sets may have 3 or 4 different books to the set. There might be a general service manual, an electrical diagrams manual, a fuel and emissions manual (engine and engine computer stuff), and a unit repair manual.
Newer vehicles might have everything integrated into a set of several books.
Anyway I find myself frequently flipping between the various books for the same problem. One might show the location of a device, another the wiring diagram, and another information for troubleshooting.
BTW for older vehicles factory service manual sets may have 3 or 4 different books to the set. There might be a general service manual, an electrical diagrams manual, a fuel and emissions manual (engine and engine computer stuff), and a unit repair manual.
Newer vehicles might have everything integrated into a set of several books.
Anyway I find myself frequently flipping between the various books for the same problem. One might show the location of a device, another the wiring diagram, and another information for troubleshooting.
And i'm guessing a Hanes/Chilton manual just isn't enough?
Well for my vehicles I have those too. Sometimes I need all the help I can get and it helps to get all the information I can. Sometimes the factory manuals go on and on about something and I can quickly look it up in the other manuals.
But to give you an idea of the information in the factory manuals, I have a 99 GM C/K truck with 4 books to the set and each book is 2 inches thick!
That's about 3,000 pages of information! And only on 1999 C/K trucks.
For a 92 manual, the electrical manual is 11 inches by 17 inches and about 300 pages long. All just electrical diagrams, layouts of harnesses, locations of each electrical device in the vehicle, connectors, where each connector is located, etc.
. Enough said . 
