Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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So I just moved from Florida to Modesto, Commiefornia. Before that I lived in Connecticut. The last two places I've lived had nothing but wide open spaces and plenty of room to stretch the cars legs. I get here and it's nothing but stop and go traffic. Before the drive over I put in a 180 T-stat and had the coolant system flushed out. It also has a 2 year old radiator in it. Since I got here I noticed that the car get's hot and really doesn't stay cool unless I get to driving and getting some air flowing through it. I pulled off the lower air dam to see if that helps, I haven't driven it yet so I don't know if it worked or not. Today it hit 245 with the AC on while I was driving around. When is the factory E-fan supposed to kick on? Mine kicks on around 220 but I feel that's a bit high. Even with the new t-stat it still gets hot really fast. Any ideas?
The factory fan does kick on at 220, I think that is to high as well, but that's factory for you. Here's a link that might help you out. http://www.thirdgen.org/cool
When I changed injectors I also changed the thermostat to a 180. Now I have wild temperature fluctuations like you. On the open road it's real cool, but in traffic it heats up. I'm going to change the secondary fan temp switch to a lower one, but the real problem is that the PROM doesn't know about the 180 thermostat so it doesn't turn the primary fan on when it should. Put your air dam back on, you really need it on there.
__________________ In the land of the blind, he who has one eye is king.
When I changed injectors I also changed the thermostat to a 180. Now I have wild temperature fluctuations like you. On the open road it's real cool, but in traffic it heats up. I'm going to change the secondary fan temp switch to a lower one, but the real problem is that the PROM doesn't know about the 180 thermostat so it doesn't turn the primary fan on when it should. Put your air dam back on, you really need it on there.
I only took the lower piece off, not the entire thing. I wasn't too optimistic about it making a difference to begin with but I just wanted to see. Could it **** something up?
Also, I'm going to put a new thermostat in it just to see if maybe the flush knocked some **** loose and clogged the one I put in. Would a 170 be too cool?
Last edited by 90Formula305; 07-14-2009 at 02:56 PM.
Yep. That air dam is really vital to the cars. Get it back on there. It may not solve the problem at hand while idling, but not having it could certainly cause problems.
__________________
1984 Camaro Matrix 3 'Vert
1985 Firebird "Green Machine" (Parted Out)
1991 Firebird *RIP* (Rust in Peace)
1996 Camaro Z28 (Sold it... wish I had it back)
2009 Nissan Cube (Daily driver)
Even with the fans, these cars have horrible ventilation for the cooling system. The only thing that actually does anything is the air dam when you're moving. The lower the thermostat temp you use, the more fluctuation you are going to see in the gauge until the ECM knows what to do.
__________________ In the land of the blind, he who has one eye is king.
the only way to properly diagnose an overheat problem is with an infrared thermometer. get the engine hot enough to open the thermostat, (make sure the thermostat is opening) turn it off. scan the cooling system from the therm. housing to radiator to h2o pump inlet, there should be no significant drops in temp. make sure you scan the rad. in all 4 corners of the core and center . if there are no major drops in temp you have an air flow problem. if the radiator has a cold spot replace it. hope i helped...good luck
Found out my problem. The car hit 255 degrees sitting in traffic today, I got out and popped the hood. No fan, deader than ****. Did a voltage test at the connector, that turned out fine. I need a fan.
Did you turn on your A/C to see if the fan comes on with the A/C on, if it does, its probably your fan switch or relay. Might want to check that before you replace your fan.
Good Luck!
I just replaced the fan motor, not the whole assembly. It wouldn't kick on at idle even with the car at 240+. It works fine now, I'm still going to get the new relay though. 220 is still too hot around here.
yeah i think its too high but it did same thing to me it was relay make sure its not connecting strait to ground otherwise it will have your fan running all times.... it did to me which fried the relay
I just replaced the fan motor, not the whole assembly. It wouldn't kick on at idle even with the car at 240+. It works fine now, I'm still going to get the new relay though. 220 is still too hot around here.
I like the switch I got from Painless. Turns on just past 200 (maybe 205 or so) and off at around 185-190. Works very well.
I run a 165* thermostat and my car doesnt get above 200 on a 98* day just sitting in traffic. The air dam helps your car cool down at speeds higher than 35mph. It creates low pressure behind then radiator forcing air to circulate through it and cooling the engine. Try running a lower temp thermostat. On a 70-80* day my car runs at 180* with the fans seldomly kicking on.
Did you turn on your A/C to see if the fan comes on with the A/C on, if it does, its probably your fan switch or relay. Might want to check that before you replace your fan.
Good Luck!
So, my fan comes with the a/c on no matter what temp the car is at. Although the new motor comes on perfectly fine when it's supposed to with the a/c off. Now what?
i have to say it dude - modesto crowded? get real. there are hardly any people at all in modesto.
as for your problem you are having a computer telling the system one thing, mechanics another, and no coordination.
put the stock temp in it - check your water pump - maybe its leaking and not working.
I have a 92 camero that seems to over heat it will jump straight up to 240 in a matter of 15 mints driving down the road. I keep the fans on all the time. Have changed everything except the water pump and when the car gets hot it will lose its power. If i turn the heater on it cooles it down only for a short amount of time.
if you replaced the radiator and the block had scale in it, it could have clogged again. also you can take the plate off the rear of the water pump and see if the impellor has come off. here is how to diagnose your problem. you need and infrared thermometer. get the car hot, turn it off and scan the entire cooling system. you're looking for "cold spots" . check temp at thermostat housing, radiator at all 4 corner of the core and center, and water pump inlet if there is more than 20 or so degree drop in radiator temp replace radiator. if all is ok check water pump or airflow through radiator