RustyRed

Hello, I have 86 firebird with a 2.8l v6, automatic, I just bought the car for $500 a few days ago and was taking it for a spin, when I start it, it idles high and sound great after it takes a min for it to turnover. After it warms up or I put it in gear it drops to an idle of about 300-500 rps and if I stop quickly it dies on me and takes about 5 minutes in the middle of an intersection for it to start back up. If you have any tips or advice I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

how high is it idling prior to warm up? it *may* be something as simple as adjusting the idle screw to raise up the idle a bit, since you should be around 500-600 rpm when warmed up. 300's definitely on the low side. does the bounce around when warmed up (before it dies)?

1992_355

BEING AN 86 2.8 IT MUST BE TPI,IS THE CHECH ENGINE LIGHT ON,IF SO CHECK THE CODES, IF NOT CHECK FOR VACUM LEAKS.

DirtDawg57

iTrader: (3)

I just bought and 86 camaro 2.8l V6 and it did the same thing. Every time I came to a stop just about I would the engine start sputtering around like it was idling to low then it would die. It keep shutting off when I was in traffic so I had to figure it out. I bought new spark plugs and wires and changed them and it hasn't die since. But I think what the main problem was who ever changed the spark plugs last had the gap set at half of what it should have been. The manual says the gap should be set at .045 I think, so you might what to check that.

RustyRed

So I purchased new spark plugs for it which im going to change tonight, hopefully that does the trick the only thing on the rpm reading is that I no longer have any gauges, they all shut off on me and my interior lights so I have no idea what my idle is at now, before they shut off it would turn over and idle at light 1300 rpm's then then slowly drop down to about 300-500, I can really feel my car just shimmy and try to die, and like I said if I hit a yellow light im pretty much screwed cuz me slamming the breaks or even slowing down quickly is a garauntee of my car dying.

RustyRed

When my gauges did work as well my check engine light was on but I no longer have any power to my gauges so I doubt I can even read a code since I heard you have to read the code off the flashing of the lights on the dash? not sure if thats true but I know I cant just plug it in at auto zone and have them tell me.

rick121

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately our cars are so old that the code checkers don't do much good. I've tried it everywhere and most places don't check them at all anymore

Cyco

I'm having the same problem and it came on quickly. This is an '89 with a 3 year old crate 3.1 V6 in it. I put a new distributor cap and rotor in, faked me out and ran nicely then started doing the same things once it warmed up: sputtering on acceleration (especially 1000 to 3000 rpm), fluctuating tach, lack of power. When I come to a fast stop it will drop idle to <500 rpm and sometimes stall.

I need some theories on this! Can anybody help? Fuel? Vacuum? Plugs?

rick121

iTrader: (1)

turned out when my car did this it was the timing. putting it back to tdc wasn't the fix either. The dealership had to advance or retard it a bit. they said sometimes the engines get worked over so that they don't operate on exactly the same standards as they did off the manufacturing line so sometimes you have to tweak it a little. So my timing is off by a few degrees. I guess they just played with it till it stopped dying. Worth trying before dumping more money into it.

848892bird

I'm having the same problem with my 92 Formula 350. New oxygen sensor, idle air control valve, coolant temp sensor, distributor cap, plug wires, plugs it still does the same thing. Runs fine until it gets warm, when it does it's just like you said low rpm's, dies at stop lights, etc. I would like to hear from someone who might know what's going on. Any ideas?

B-RaXx

yeah i have a 89 firebird 2.8L and it seems like every time i come to stop and make a turn its start to ack like it dies but i can do anything untill it dies or idles back up to normal i do need to do a tune-up im hoping that fixes it

Fame

91' Camaro RS with the same problem. With as many people having this same problem, youd think somebody would know how to fix this.

OldAndInTheWay

iTrader: (1)

'87 IROC 350 TPI with the same issue. Driving me nuts

tcrisp

my car was doing the samething and i change tps sensor mass sensor and the iac sensor .than i set the voltsag right on the tps than I turn the key on do not start the car and unplug the iac .than turn the key off and plug the iac back up and drive your car on see if it cut off. it work for me maybe it will work for you. if it dont it could be a bad ecm or maybe bad injector.

mikeygoode283

I just did head gaskets on my 86 camaro with 2.8 now when its running it runs fine but every so often it will wistle howl type sound then pop. Someone please help I need my car for work

rusty vango

put the pipe down,,, and slowly back away.

willexoIX

Anyone think to get their ICM checked? If you have it checked at an auto parts store, have them test it multiple times in a row to warm it up because they can test good while cold and still be bad. Just a shot in the dark.

alexiroc

Just fixed this problem - '89 305 TPI. Had a shorted EGR temp sensor and EGR that would not hold vacuum. So these would throw the computer off. Once a blue moon check engine light would go on, giving a code 32 (egr) and 44 (lean). It made no sense to me that an EGR would cause this, but apparently the temp sensor being shorted maybe caused the computer to get confused.

So after checking almost all the other sensors, this did the trick. Car idles nice, hot or cold.

street89

So to fix this problem what did you change the temp sensor and the egr valve itself or the egr solenoid?

Because i have 2 89's with the similiar problem the 305 tpi it dies getting to a stop and turns back up again and my 350 tpi dies when it starts warming up sobi hav to keep my foot on the gas so it doesnt shut off, because of it does i hav to wait for this car to cool down to start it up again or it wont start or even crank it just clicks once and thats it.

alexiroc

Hi, you just described two different problems.
Prob #1 : Dies at idle at stop. I would start with simple things and work my way up: 1) Air filter dirty, 2) TPS not properly set, 3) Clean or replace IAC valve, 4) Check coolant temp sensor for proper resistance at various temperatures (9500 ohms at 32deg, 350 ohms at 180deg), 5) check EGR temp sensor to make sure not shorted - should be open on cold engine 6) check MAT sensor 10000 ohms cold, <1000 ohms hot, 7) Remove EGR and ensure it is working like it should. If you have a real old EGR just replace it with CORRECT one. 4A) Check fuel pressure at fuel rail, should be around 40 PSI. 8) Check MAF sensor - well I really don't know how to check it and it is expensive.

Note, at one point I have increased my idle speed by putting some tape on throttle possition lever to hold it open a little more. That helped too if you tried various things and it failed.

Prob #2 : Car wont crank when hot. This is a common problem, the starter solenoid sits right next to exhaust manifold. When car is hot, you may turn the key, and NOTHING happens. No click, no sound anywhere. Car starts when cold. Well, this is tough one to fix, others may have better ideas, but I have wrapped my starter with a special wrap they sell to keep the starter cooler. Also, I have a switch in my dash that turns on the radiator fans in case I think the engine is getting hot, because the temp switch that turns it on - it goes on sometimes at like 225 degrees, a little too hot In my opinion, but I can control it manually if I like.

Good Luck

Kay510998

Hey did you fix your problem on your car? Or did anyone get an answer to the problem with low idle and wants to die out at stopping.