Tech / General EngineWhy is my car making that sound? My car won't start! Combination questions? Don't see a board for your problem or have other technical or engine specific questions? Post them here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
well i was leaving from work yesterday tryed starting the car but all it would do is just crank. It was raining out so my first thought was maybe i got some water under the hood or something. I tryed starting it for 10 min then i stoped. came back about 1 hour later and then it started right up. now before when it was just cranking and cranking i did not here the fuel pump prime at all but when i got it started right before i hear the fuel pump prime. so today I go out to leave for work and I don't here the fuel pump prime and the car will not start. just crank. anythoughts on this
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
__________________ Abe
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
First push in the needle at the passengerside fuel rail. If there is pressure in the fuel line, it will be relieved. do this several times so that all pressure will be out. P.S., you'll have gasoline leakage so have a rag ready. Now after all pressure is released, turn you key to on several times. turn off, then hit the needle agian. If the gas drips out, then maby youll have a bad fuel pump. Now heres another test, when you turn the key to "on", do you hear a click right next to the brake booster (driverside engine compartment firewall)? If you dont hear a click, then the fuel pump relay is bad and needs to be replaced. there is another way to test and verify if the fuel pump is bad. I dont know how to do it but it involves putting a jumper wire into the ALDL box under the steering column and running it to the battery. Dont try it until you verify it with someone who knows. I had it done to my IROC Z and we verified that the pump was bad. Also ask someone to help you out, remove the gas cap, (make sure you have no static because you can ignite fumes like this) , put your ear next to the tank opening, have someone turn the key to "on". if you here the click but no winding, then the pump is bad, but if there is nothing at all, then you fuel pump relay is bad, or the fuel pump aswell, or check the fuse (do this first).
Patients with that fuel tank. Its a pain because youll have to drop your whole rear end including the axle right up until your springs fall out of its housing.
here's an update on my car. this morning i jumped in and turned the key to the on position l heard a click from what i think was the fuel pump relay so i think its ok. then i cycled the key on and off to bulid up so pressure. then i went over to the fuelrail and pressed on the valve. it just dripped out with no pressure. so i did it again and the same thing no pressure just dripped out very little fuel coming out. now im almost sure its the fuel pump.
Sorry bro. Youre gonna waste about 5 hours of your day if its your first time dropping your tank. Your gonna have to remove the 2 cross bars, drop the muffler, unbolt your shocks, lower the axle until your springs fall off, remove the mufflers 2 heat shields, Make sure there is no gas in the tank because the empty tank alone is heavy. You'll need a partner to help you out because the neck of the tank is long and it is a @#%^#$@$$% to side it out towards the passengerside so hyoull need the help to get it out and put it back in. I had to cut the inside of the car body in the fuel tank neck housing with a "Saws All" to allow enough clearance for the neck to slide out. Its a pain bro. Youll need 4 jack stands, 2 to hold the Camaro way up high so that the axle can drop far enough, and athe other 2 to hold the already dropped axle. But yes, your fuel pump is bad.
Just for giggles, I'd buy a $8 relay and try it BEFORE I dropped the tank.
I'd also late tonight when it's deadly quiet outside have someone turn the key on while I had my ear against the hump in the trunk, and see if I could hear the pump whirring.
I'd also check the fuse that is tucked in the fenderwell beside the battery just for laughs.
If you do drop the tank, make sure you get the rear as high as you can (the nose should almost be touching the ground) - most Walmart jacks won't raise it high enough - use a wood block under the jack for extra lift. Put the jackstands just in front of where the LCA's connect to the body on each side - you need the rear axle to hang down as far as it can WITHOUT breaking the rubber brake line on the driver side that attaches to the axle.
You'll also need to remove the exhaust from the cat back.
AND .... PLEASE NOTE ...
You don't have to cut any body away to get the tank neck out! Wiggle it as far as it will come towards the pass side and downwards, then gently with steady even pressure push upwards on the now wedged tank to slowly and evenly slightly bend the neck, and wiggle again until it comes out. Then, on reinstall, when you get it back in the car, the filler neck will not be centered in the body hole because you bent it slightly - SO - stick a long screwdriver in the filler tube, and gently with slow steady even pressure bend it back to a center position, then reinstall the plastic filler neck trim and door.
Good luck to ya! My 1st one took me 8 hours, second one took 4 hours.
And ONE MORE THING! You don't want to do this every year, so get a CarQuest or Napa part - pass on Autozone or Advance. And GET THE SOCK - it doesn't come with the pump.
I had the EXACT same problem as you recently. I thought for sure it was the fuel pump. I had the shop change it out for me (I sure didn't want to tackle that job) for a very good price, but it had absoutely NO EFFECT on my starting problem and poor idle. The shop guys said a couple fuel injectors were bad. I didn't think this would cause it not to start but later I found out that the injectors were shorting out and this would cause the ECM to shut all of them down; thus no start. It would just crank and show symptoms of a bad fuel pump.
I knew going in to the fuel pump replacement that it wasn't a lock to fix the problem but I decided to go ahead with it anyway since that was the original fuel pump (20 years old!). Anyway, I am in the process of replacing my stock injectors so I can't confirm with you that it will ultimately fix the problem but I am fairly confident on this one. I would check out the injectors, especially if they are stock, considering the age of the car. The ethanol in today's gasoline doesn't suit well with those old injectors and it causes problems. One thing I did notice is that I was usually able to get the car to start when it was cold, but it would not start after being warm at all. I thought the fuel pump was behaving erratic (slow death), but it wasn't the problem at all.
i just order my new fuel pump. Im getting the acdelco part number ep241. I was going to put a high flow aftermarket one in but I was thinking it a daily driven car and most of its fuel system is stock. im going to drop the tank but here is some bad news. i have a full tank of gas in there. about 15 gallons or so still in there. does anyone know if thirdgen fuel tanks have drane plugs in them.
here's an update. today i threw a fuel pump relay in just for the hell of it. (cost 10 bucks) and its a no go still no start. I did remember something i forgot to tell you guys. last week when my car was working i rermember going to work and 3 hours of working i went to my car to grab some change in the car and notice the cars fuel pump was running with my keys out of the ignition a buzzing sound from the back of my car when I but my key in the ignition and started the car and then turned it off to stop the fuel pump from primeing weird stuff.
i just did all this on my i roc you need to put a pressure gauge on there and see what you are geting not positive but should be around 30 to 40 psi or go to the back and disconnect the fuel line that screws together and cycle the pump to see how much fuel you are geting i suggested you drain it into a bucket this is also a good way to empty the tank before you remove it and if you can get the car high enuff in the air you do not have to remove your shocks or atleast i did not the hardest part is fighting the filler neck
i have had 6 gal's of Gas sitting in My tank for the last 7 years...
going to drain it out in the nexed few days.. what do you Guys think i should add to the tank to Help clean it..
im going to send the ejtrs off to get them cleaned also..
the pump is factry car has less then 38.000 on it..(92 Z28)
my car sat for 14 yrs you need to drain all the gas out you can do this by pulling the hose on the fuel pump that screws together apart and cycle the key that should get most of it out then new gas with berryman b-12 i used two pint cans in 5 gallons of gas or you could use seafoam and then just injector cleaner every so often
my car sat for 14 yrs you need to drain all the gas out you can do this by pulling the hose on the fuel pump that screws together apart and cycle the key that should get most of it out then new gas with berryman b-12 i used two pint cans in 5 gallons of gas or you could use seafoam and then just injector cleaner every so often
this stuff i can get ant any auto shop?
and you think that will do it?..it worked on your's???
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 10-06-2009 at 04:48 AM.
this stuff i can get ant any auto shop?
and you think that will do it?..it worked on your's???
this is what i have always used unless you have had the tank open so large debris can get in it this stuff will clear right up i got mine at auto zone but any auto parts store should have it here is a link so you will know what your looking for let me know how it turns out
fuel pump was running with my keys out of the ignition a buzzing sound from the back of my car when I but my key in the ignition and started the car and then turned it off to stop the fuel pump from primeing weird stuff.
That happened to me - it was a bad Oil Pressure Sending Unit (OPSU). The fuel pump gets a direct current from the battery through the OPSU to the pump. The OPSU can go bad and "think" it's seeing pressure, and therefore makes the pump run constantly regardless of the key (since it's a direct connection from the battery). OPSU should be above the oil filter - they are about $30 at the Zone.
That happened to me - it was a bad Oil Pressure Sending Unit (OPSU). The fuel pump gets a direct current from the battery through the OPSU to the pump. The OPSU can go bad and "think" it's seeing pressure, and therefore makes the pump run constantly regardless of the key (since it's a direct connection from the battery). OPSU should be above the oil filter - they are about $30 at the Zone.
do i replace both the oil pressure sending unit and fuel pump. since i here no prime and have very little fuel pressure I do think my fuel pump is broke. I do notice my oil pressure sending unit is leaking oil out of it. little drips here and there. my fuel pump just came in. tomorrow i will be soaking everything down with wd-40 to make thursdays fuel pump repair alittle better.
Forget WD-40 - get PB Blaster, much better. Replace what you need to I guess - I was just letting you know that the only way a fuel pump can run constantly with the key off is from a bad OPSU. I'd replace it if it's leaking oil, it's probably bad. Good Luck!
just an update. I replaced the fuel pump and it fired right up. so i went ahead and replaced the oil pressure sending unit because it was leaking. and the car is driving very well.
