Tech / General EngineWhy is my car making that sound? My car won't start! Combination questions? Don't see a board for your problem or have other technical or engine specific questions? Post them here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Here's a problem I'm sure has come up before, but searching, I couldn't find a solution. I need to replace my ignition lock cylinder because I stupidly broke my key. Even that was fine until my friend "helped" me by turning the cylinder to "lock" using my ignition screw driver. So now I can't get it out of lock and my Haynes manual says to turn it to run in order to remove it. Anyone know how to remove the cylinder without being able to do that? I'd also rather not break or drill anything to get this done if possible.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Last edited by 84Z28406; 10-08-2009 at 07:49 AM.
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
you wont need to turn it to run to remove it. the only thing is you will have a little problem when it comes to wiggling out the "key in" buzzer connector with the key is stuck in. it it possible you just cant force it too hard or you will damage the little plastic part. i am assuming that this is for your 3rd gen that is listed by your pic.
__________________ 1985 IROC Original Owner.Original silver paint, Roller 406c.i., 4 bolt, Superram, accel DFI 6. serpentine setup, Factory GM 1LE brake set-up, richmond 5 speed, 1 3/4 slp, jet hot, gale banks 2OTL power pack (vintage), eibach, grey leather flo-fits, A/C delete, 29k original miles and never been driven in the rain. all original parts are on the shelf. original window sticker and build sheets. 1996 Z28 M6 LT4 kit, hotcam, obd1, C5 brakes. And then theres the road runner.
It's been awhile since I've taken out an ignition cylinder so I may have forgotten a thing or two.
I think the only way to get the lock out of the column without damage is to remove the steering wheel, take out the turn-signal assembly and remove the one screw that holds the cylinder in. There is a plastic piece for the key buzzer (like grumpygreaseape said) that will have to be removed.
I know my explanation is generic but I could spell it out further if that's what you decide to do.
Otherwise, did you try rocking the wheel back and forth while turning the lock with your screwdriver? Maybe there is pressure from the steering preventing you from turning the lock.
Thanks for the responces guys. I'll get a steering wheel puller and get at with my next paycheck. I did try wiggling the steering wheel and turning the screwdriver, but the part of the key that broke off isn't inside. I broke it back when I thought a key was made with real metal and would make a good prybar. Oops. Good to know I'm not screwed. Now to get it done soon so I can move it to its storage place for winter. Snow is already on the ground! Thanks again.
In my generic reply I didn't mention that you'll need a lock plate depressor tool as well.
I think you can rent both the steering wheel puller and the lock plate depressor tool at AutoZone or NAPA.
But don't quote me!
That's good info to have, I would have gotten home and started swearing that I had to make another hour long trip to the store, so thanks. which is the lock plate? Is it that little shiny metal ring the sort of goes around the cylinder, looking from where the key goes in, but somewhat recessed?
i didnt need a steering wheel puller. i think i did, i dont know, but you dont need to turn key to run, i lost my keys when had to change the ignition lock. took 10 minutes. reinstall the steering wheel perfect, or youll be back. and be careful with the c-clip. its important, wear safety goggles.
i didnt need a steering wheel puller. i think i did, i dont know, but you dont need to turn key to run, i lost my keys when had to change the ignition lock. took 10 minutes. reinstall the steering wheel perfect, or youll be back. and be careful with the c-clip. its important, wear safety goggles.
I do need the steering wheel puller. I tryed just pulling it off and it wouldn't come. C-clip does come off with some tension though. That thing should come with a warning tag! What do you mean by install the wheel perfect or I'll be back. How does one install it improperly?
youll need a puller then, i meant youll be back because if you dont align the splines with the wheel. you wont have that center with your steering wheel.. Get it? the center of which the steering wheel is sync with the cars steering. For example, the steering wheel wont be true straight while driving. it will look ghetto. a cockeyed steering wheel haa
i used to drift, its fun. my old Dunlops are toast because of it. but i hurt my steering in the process. I still occasionally drift, but not fast anymore. the front steering components bends too easily.
Thats good to know. I don't really go that fast while going it, but intend to replace all the front suspension fairly soon. Mostly just powerslides. Tires only last me about two months. What in particular tends to bend?
the tie rods i think. i did a minor front end rebuild and still cant get it to go straight (it vears to the right). im missing something. It could be the tires from before that the tread worn down so much crooked, that even with new struts, inner outer tierods, tie rod seelves, ball joints, bearings, and one strut mount. i suspect a bad bushing or the centerlink and idle arm, and pitman arm, maybe to blame. oh well, gotta wait to see
ah sticky situation, what i do then it wiggle a torx bit past the little clip for the key in, remove the retaining screw for the lock, this usually breaks the little tab, for key in, but wont harm it, pull your ignition out.
yeah, i replaced the tierods, struts, one strut mount, tie rod seelves, bearings, rotors, balljoints. I was a little low on change and couldnt get the pitman arm and idler arm, center link, bushings, other strut mount... thats wats next on the list. the car did get an alignment. im thinking the wear in the tire is draging it right. im going to replace the above parts i didnt get too before, and get new tires everntually, i got flat spots in them too. anyways ya.
1985 IROC Original Owner.Original silver paint, Roller 406c.i., 4 bolt, Superram, accel DFI 6. serpentine setup, Factory GM 1LE brake set-up, richmond 5 speed, 1 3/4 slp, jet hot, gale banks 2OTL power pack (vintage), eibach, grey leather flo-fits, A/C delete, 29k original miles and never been driven in the rain. all original parts are on the shelf. original window sticker and build sheets. 1996 Z28 M6 LT4 kit, hotcam, obd1, C5 brakes. And then theres the road runner. 
What do you mean by install the wheel perfect or I'll be back. How does one install it improperly? 
