Tech / General EngineWhy is my car making that sound? My car won't start! Combination questions? Don't see a board for your problem or have other technical or engine specific questions? Post them here!
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Ok this black clip broke. Can I replace the clip? I was thinking about a 2 part epoxy fix. If I replace the whole cable is it hard? Is it a kickdown cable? Also could this be the reason why my car shifts really slow (feels like slipping) and when it shifts it shifts hard, shakes the whole car. Thanks for the help!
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If you're running a TH700, that cable affects hydraulic pressure in the trans. I wouldn't drive the car with that cable disconnected from the throttle linkage.
If you're running a TH700, that cable affects hydraulic pressure in the trans. I wouldn't drive the car with that cable disconnected from the throttle linkage.
One way to torch the trans
Cable can be replaced by unbolting from trans; I don't think epoxy is going to last
you kidding me? Ugh been driving the car like that for a week. Just did a tranny flush and filter change as well. Only a small pice of plastic broke off the lip of where it connects, i hope the epoxy will hold till I can do this. Crappy old car!
If there isn't enough plastic left to keep it on the stud, yes, you need to replace it pronto. You can smoke the tranny in very short order without it hooked up (and properly adjusted!). It affects the line pressure inside the trans, among other things. That means internal slippage can result- which wears stuff out in a right quick hurry.
It's not a big deal to replace it. Yes, you have to drop the trans pan. That's how you get to the other end of it where it attaches to a little arm inside the trans. Other than that it's a "clip it in the brackets" kind of affair.
Remember to go through the proper adjustment procedure on the cable head after you install any new cable. Yes, there is an adjustment. Too loose and it shifts early plus the potential again for trans slippage. Too tight and you'll never get to WOT when you lay the pedal all the way down.
Agreed! You'll ruin the tranny - DO NOT DRIVE unless you want to dish out $1000 for a rebuild! Replace that cable - dealer carries them as well as most parts stores. No epoxy will hold it - way too much pressure on it. It's called the TV cable - do a on here to see how to properly adjust once you get it replaced - 'cause a wrong adjustment is as bad as not having one at all.
Why would you have to drop the pan? I was able to replace mine by removing the tranny crossmember and driveshaft. I then slowly lowering the transmission using a floor jack until I could reach the cable with my hand. I removed the the cable, installed the new one. It was tricky to get the clip in but is doable and then installed everything in reverse. It took me about an hour total.
Am I missing something here? I am by no means a professional but hate this guy to go through trouble he does not have to.
You don't have to drop the pan - I never did. Like stated, you may need to lower the tranny by removing the bolts from the crossmember and let it down on a jack - not sure I'd even remove the drive shaft as it will move on it's own (U-Joints). Inside the tranny there is a small pin - on the TV cable there is a small hole - the hole goes over the pin, then there's only one small bolt that holds it on - the trick is to get the hole in the cable end onto the pin and get it secured without the pin slipping loose. Definitely do-able under the car on jack stands without dropping the pan.
The cable isn't too hard to replace, but it's a little tricky getting it connected. The pan does not have to come off. It goes into the passenger side, downwards into the lower part of the trans. It hooks to this little clip thing, and it's kind of a pain to get it connected, just because it's down in a hole. Needle-nose pliers, or even tweezers should help. My buddy and I spent a good hour or so when changing his car from TBI to TPI, and swapping to the TPI TV cable.
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Hey i just got a rebuilt trans installed in my car and the mechanic couldn't set the tv cable no matter what position it was in even trying to reset it by sliding it and pushing the carb throttle linkage to WOT it still seemed to shift late and it wouldnt go into 4th. I don't think the cable was ever set right with the old trans, some times it wouldnt downshift from 4th when i floored it. Im thinking maybe the cables bad but as someone else said it could be the wrong bracket its an edelbrook 600 carb. I have three questions are there different lengths of cables? If so which should i get and if not what bracket would i need for my carb, and how much will it hurt to drive back to the mechanics maybe 15ish miles i've already driven it home :/. Any help will be appreciated and i could use help asap
that question i cannot answer due to my laque of knowledge , i think that by just knowing what transmission you have enginsize and/or vehicle model you should be set " that is if your vehicle is stock .
Hum thanks, i hope i don't have to buy one :/ though, i think my cables bad so im getting a replacement anyway, are the carb and fuel injection ones different?
probably , since most carb intake manifolds are high rise , they tend to take up more of the cable slack thus creating the shifting problem , IMO thats why they make adapters .
You'll also need this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-64511/
or similar from different brand. It's the geometry corrector that attaches to the varb linkage on the Edelbrock to ensure the geometry of the cable is correct.
And you'll need a good cable bracket - I used this one cause it was very nice and strong - didn't flex like the Spectre brand junk:
Glad to see another night owl lol. I was just wondering about the cable because the B&M one from summit it like 30 somethin opposed to one i could get local for like 18. Why do i need the bracket?
You need a good bracket that will hold the throttle cable and the TV cable in place without flexing, and with proper alignment and spacing from the carb linkage.
You need the geometry corrector because even with the cable end the right distance from the linkage, the linkage alone doesn't allow the correct geometry of the cable in relation to the bracket (ie the cable will be too high or too low in relation to the bracket, thus the forces on it change when under pulling pressure from the throttle movement). If that makes sense. Forces are changed anytime up/down position is changed, not just cable length, and with the 700R4 this is not just a simple "kickdown" cable system, but it's much more precise "Throttle Valve" positioning system - thus the name TV cable rather than simply kickdown cable. Everything has to be just so with these TV cables or else the tranny can fry itself quick - it's all about pressure changes in TV as opposed to simple mechanical changes in kickdown.
Looks like i have some things to order thanks. How much do you think it will hurt my new trans to drive it back to the mechanic 15ish miles away?. I feel bad for thread jacking but i wasn't getting any help in my thread.
on here to see how to properly adjust once you get it replaced - 'cause a wrong adjustment is as bad as not having one at all. 
, i think that by just knowing what transmission you have enginsize and/or vehicle model you should be set " that is if your vehicle is stock . 
