| Re: Flex Plate Replacment? You can see and touch both the bottom of the flexplate and the bottom of the torque convertor by just taking the sheet metal flywheel inspection plate/shield off the bottom front of the transmission.
You can turn the flexplate and convertor and get a wrench on the TC-to-FP bolts by rotating it as you go around.
But to change the flexplate or convertor you will have to seperate the engine from the transmission either by loosening the transmission and moving it back (which means the driveshaft will almost certainly have to be removed) or by loosening and moving the engine forward (just about have to pull it, better to move the tranny back).
You will have to expose the FP- to- crankshaft bolts and have enough seperation of the engine and tranny to get a ratchet or wrench on the crank bolts and to get the TC pushed back enough for clearance. If you were removing the TC, you would need even more seperation.
An unfortunate by-product of the newer one piece rear main seal cranks is the smaller bolt circle and crank mounting flange for the flexplate. I personally like the older two-piece rear main cranks with the bigger flange, but alas, progress has taken us past that stronger setup. The one piece seal portion of the story is a better setup but I never had all that much of a problem with the two piece deal, so there you are. Any newer first gen small block high performance and even low performance stuff uses the one piece setup. |