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My eagle crank has some wear on it, nothing you can catch a finger nail on but on some you can feel its not smooth as glass with your nail. Can I polish this at home with 1000 and atf or does it need to be ground down? Heres a couple pics, thanks
I read an article that said to roll the paper around it twice, take a shoe string and run it over the sandpaper from end to end and move it back and forth. Do you think this is a good method? Why do you say no atf, shouldnt I have some sort of lubricant?
oil or water will attack the glue on emery cloth, used to Buff out cranks its not wet or dry.. and unsing it dry, makes clean up with Hot water a snap.
you use Hot water.. unless you have a cleaning tank with fresh..
(i mean Fresh solvent) in it.. hot water not warm Hot..
will not rust when you stand there and wipe it down.. you can also pop in in a oven.. or use a heat gun / blow dryer on it...to get all the water off and out..
use it dry..it works better.
even when its done i have used 2500 emry on mine.. looks like chrome when done.
as for the shoe string...?? dont know.. when holding the cloth strips you use on a crank.. the presher is even.. a string might make it press only in spots the string is..? never seen it done like that before..
after all your just checking to see if you need to have it turned.. start with 1 jurnl.. and see if you get it all Buffed out in under 5 min..
if it takes longer.. it might have to be done at a shop..
How wide are the strips? Do I cut 1' long sections and just work along the width of the journal slowly, then do the opposite side? should I look for 2500 grit?
can't tell for sure from the picks,but looks like time to
take it to a crank shop for a regrind-if any of the journal
end up oval or are still slightly grooved, could be spun
bearing waiting to happen
Depends on how the crank mics out, if it already near minimum spec, and you have to polish .0005" to 0.001" off then your better off grinding it, have you miced it, personally for what it would cost, id just turn it 0.010", how many miles are on that crank, it appears to have had a large amount of deposits in the oil to cause that kinda of wear, we have taken apart blown alcohol BBC's that have gone 6.70's with 200+ passes and havnt had marking at bad as that on the journals.
I havent mic'd it but its never been cut, all bearings were std size, and from what Ive been reading the eagle stroker crank have larger main journals 2.45 as opposed to 2.448 so I guess that give me and extra .002 material to polish off. Hopefully I can polish a jounal today and mic it. Will a digital caliper work? Its got 6k on it and it was running @500hp with a 150 shot on it. A lifter retainer came off and turned 2 lifters sideways, there was definetly debris in the oiling system after that, which is why it looks the way it does.
why at this point in getting your motor right would you skip the machine shop
have them check it out
I agree....it is not very much to turn it if it needs it...take it down. I would even take down the rods to check them for roundness. You don't want to wish you had taken it down to maching shop the next time you're at the track.
personally if I had motor out, I would take it down to machine shop and have him check EVERYTHING, not just crank and rods, but the line bore and cylinder roundness, just to be safe...especially on 500 ponies.
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I read an article that said to roll the paper around it twice, take a shoe string and run it over the sandpaper from end to end and move it back and forth. Do you think this is a good method? Why do you say no atf, shouldnt I have some sort of lubricant?
Yes, it's a good method. It's been around for a LONG time and I've used it several times over the years.
The shoe string better equalizes the OD pressure on the journal. Up with one end of the string while down with the other, repeat.