Atilla the Fun

for all the non-machinists to visualize the un-shrouding cutter, get paper, pen, ruler, protractor, and a dime. Draw a straight line. Then draw another, at a 75 degree angle to it. Then where they meet, put the dime there. Trace the edge of it. You should've just created a tiny triangle with a curved side.
Now, move the paper so that one line is vertical. That leaves the bottom line at a 15 degree angle from horizontal.
This is like an enlargement of the cutter.

Atilla the Fun

No, you're cutting the wall to be farther away from the open valve. It keeps the air off the wall. Well, that's part of what it does.
As for 15 versus radius, if the flats between the angles are wide enough, then they work as well. The flats need to be at least 0.045" wide. Otherwise, it's like a 30, which is disruptive.
Man, stop with the circle track BS. This is street, we build for longevity, not for regular teardowns. Ultimate flow comes second to getting it to go 50,000 miles on pump gas. And your flow info is all second hand anyway. I got my own, myself, hands on.
I ran the Serdi, I did the porting and polishing, and I ran the SuperFlow.
I also checked the swirl. More flow with less swirl is harmful. Look at the LSx heads. They have way more swirl than any SBC head, that's part of why they work so well. Same goes for AFR's SBC heads, more swirl than even stock Vortec L31 heads.
Flow numbers without checking swirl is obsolete. I don't give swirl info because noone here would understand it. But I always checked it, before and after.

malibu2envy

I just built a 350 using the same 416 heads, your right the intake and exhaust heights are way different. Comp makes some nifty offset valve locks that will save you from using so many shims. I am using the Comp 262H cam.
ALSO DOES ANYBODY HAVE STOCK FLOW #'S FOR 416'S?????

Doom86

I totally agree and perhaps my point was missed in my original statement. I'm not striving for larger intake ports. My point was most people remove a lot more metal then I did, removing metal in counter productive areas.

The heads will more then likely find them selves on a 350 at some point but for now it's going to be a 305. The motor they are going on runs good so it doesn't make sense to replace it when doing a budget build.

NAASBC355

No they arrent cutting the chamber wall with the 15 they are cutting the top of the seat never touching the chamber wall with the cutter.
profiles like: NWN4445, or NWN4017 I don't know what they use exactly as I would never try this approch.

You completely misunderstood what I meant by a 15 degree top cut so I'm not even going to try to discuss this any more. I have no idea where this agression came from.

Any reference to valve job's from other people in the industry, or tech articles, AERA, magazines, rule books, books writen by people in the industry all of them have always without a single difference called a 5 angle valve job 3 on the seat, and two on the valve. The only angles that even affect mechanical valve function are the three on the seat, and the two on the valve. A 3 angle valve job refers to the three on the seat the 4th being on the valve is obvious so goes without saying, and 5 angle brings the attention to the normally ignored valve. Who would try to take the time to find a way to fit 5 angles on a valve seat. Cutting the chamber wall is cutting the chamber wall not the valve seat. Cutting the bowl is cutting the bowl neither of which have any effect on the valves ability to "seat". A valve job by deffinition is truing up the seat. Yes we have found ways to improve that over the years, but the foucus of a valve job in it's most basic form is the seat angle, and making sure the valve can seat properly. We go further with this, but mechanically that's the foundation for why a valve job is performed. So why reference the other angles when they have no part in this. They are unrelated

Actually I also have a super flow flow bench I have a dyno, and no my info isn't all seccond hand, but I never shy away from the opertunity to learn from those people who have more advanced equipment then I do. Not to mention the millions of dollars the company they work for has spent in persuing cylinder head flow not to mention the ten's of millions of colective hours designing ports in race heads used all over the industry. I'm not to prideful to learn from anybody. Dirt car motors is what pays the bills at my shop so that's what I know how to translate. Of coarse we also check for swirl, but that doesn't matter across an exhaust seat. I'm so lost in where you are coming from now I don't know where to begin. What happened here? We were having what i thought was a freindly discussion, and now I'm getting attacked for sharing information. Why is that? Because I talk to other people in the industry. Because I talk to the people that design the CNC port profiles for companies like AFR. Or is it because a Del-West valvetrain rep comes by the shop showing us things that no one here will see for a decade? I live in this industry things change by the minute if your not involved it's impossible to stay current on new information. This industry is what puts food on the table. I don't live in google information, or something I read in a book. I draw from experience, and those people that are leading the industry. There are too many people doing valve seat work the way I do it with such great results that it can't be dumb luck. I don't know nor do I care what you did or who you worked for. I know what i've done, and I know what works for me. Just the fact that you would acuse me of lying suggests just the oppisite. You just can't stand there could possibly be another person that know's more about this than you can you? Even if it's information you disagree with I haven't told anyone anything wrong, dangerous, and for the most part have agreed with you about everything except small details. It shows a true lack of class to come at me like that. You could have just left it alone, but you had to Defend Yourself! from the evil invading force that is me.

As for MY valve job with MY Newen Cutters in MY guide, and seat machine, MY Super Flow bench, and computer, nor the results from MY dyno or race cars lie. I don't know where you get such assumptions from someone you've spent a whole ten posts talking too over the internet. Not to mention that we are talking some kind of different language so you often misunderstand what i'm saying in the first place. You are something else. Go figure that two engine builders would have two points of view on the "art" of seat cutting. One of us in this case MUST be "wrong" as there can't possibly be two ways to do something. But consider for a moment how is it that in a class with UNTOUCHED FACTORY HEADS WITH A NO PORTING RULE in place why is it that my customers cars run so much better when they are all the same motor. We use off the shelf cams, and pistons. Steel valve train parts. Tell me where would there be a better place to experement with diferent valve jobs. My methods are proven. I have a customer with an Oldsmobile 350 racing against an entire feild of Chevy motors, and they were #8 in the NATION last year. WITH A FACTORY CASTING OLDSMOBILE. They beat the pants off those chevy's with a heavier motor that cant rev as high.

There are so many missunderstandings, and misinformation in your attack above I just can't believe what i'm seeing. I thought you were more mature than this.

Click the link in my sig if you dought any of the above is false or a lie.

~Couch

PS we arrent all here for street builds some of us are here for racing considering that the title of the thread suggests air flow maybe someone will come along looking for ways to improve airflow in a set of racing heads.

Doom86

Couch I'm sure you're talking about this (your sig didn't link).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iewR9IF9XF8

That thing is awesome sounding

What heads are those? some ported darts was it?

Share all the information you want that is what this place is for.

NAASBC355

I appreciate that. Yes that motor has the "famous" Dart heads on it ported to 330 cfm @ .500" lift at 28" of vacuum into a 4 inch hole. It's a 14.5:1 700 hp all natural carb. sprint car motor. The only reason I can show that video is because that particular motor is dead, and gone. That was last seasons motor. It ran in the mechanical injection class against 720-730 hp injected motors, and cleaned house. Everything you see there is state of the art, cutting edge stuff. There is no such thing as a more expensive carb motor that one went out the door at a total price tag of $32000 thats 32 grand not a typo. The rules changed making this motor unusable this year so we started over. If you look real close at the block that's an actual bowtie block (iron) that has been cnc'd do bare nuts. Look at the bell housing flange on the back of the block see anything missing. As a bare block alone it had more than 6000 dollars of work in it prepped, and ready. That was before the custom cut dome coated pistons, Kriptonite rods, Jesel shaft rockers, Del-West titanium valves with 5/16 stem's, titanium retainers/locks. Rev kit. Electropolished valve springs, poly dyn coated Clevite race bearings, etc, etc. If I keep talking I could get in trouble. You get the idea. This motor is as close to NASCAR as you could get with a motor thats made to play in dirt. NASCAR motors arren't made for that kind of abuse with their "honda" crankshaft journals, and .826 wrist pins, and such. We can't run SB2.2 or we would have. That would be the only real place for improvement. Anyway I can't possibly know anything about this stuff so why bother talking about it. I'll try to post more dyno pull video's the problem is that dyno day is so stressful, and long that there's usually to much going on for me to whip out the camera. We usually give the customer the motor before it even cools off, but this motor we got to hang on to, and play with for a while so I had time to make a video.

~Couch

malibu2envy

Hard to hear but what were you turning that engine? How many ci? I am guessing 410ish? 18 degree heads? Was 330 peak flow? Would need to be 8,700 rpm for those numbers! If so thats pretty good! This build is interesting for me, you were saying to look at the block I can't see anything, have any pics of this build? Typical sprint engines have 12-15 degree heads that flow 400+cfm of course at .700 lift and have down nozzle injection directly into the cylinder and make 800hp.

NAASBC355

355 cu. in. in that video it got up to I think 8200 rpms or so it's been over a year so I can't remember exactly. We took it to 9500 before it came off the dyno. that was 330@ .500" lift @ 28" of vacuum in a 4 inch hole. The flow curve maintained this flow to max cam lift which I won't tell you. Those are 23 degree heads with 64cc chambers started off with 200cc intake runner volumes. We are limited to 23 degree heads as I mentioned. This costomer has a Kinsler injected motor in the car now with the new "sanctioned" heads which have ASCS casted into the runners of the heads limiting flow in all the areas you need to cut to improve the heads. We still get 720-730 hp out of those motors even though the heads don't flow as well as the carb. heads we had.

All our customers like absolute confidentiality I was lucky to get the video, and I couldn't show it until after the motor died. That was last years motor.

~Couch

Atilla the Fun

private

NAASBC355

removed

malibu2envy

Couch if you made those numbers from 355 inches you are VERY knowledgeable!

BACK ON TOPIC!!!!!!!!! I am having a VERY hard time finding flow numbers for stock untouched 416's, anybody know where I can find this?

TxTtopZ

Edit

TxTtopZ

All I can find is the 081 numbers, even the "stan weiss" cylinder head info site lacks the stock 416 numbers... Maybe Fast355 has some..

NAASBC355

removed

NAASBC355

removed

TxTtopZ

Edit

Atilla the Fun

private

NAASBC355

removed

NAASBC355

removed

TxTtopZ

I understand your disposition with Atilla, he is a lot to chew at first bite even I had problems with him myself but the fact is he has his place here, and it's not just from being in everyone's posts either. I accept your apology, and I also apologize... However, this thread is now tainted with 3/4 pages of BS, which someone reading or researching on this topic in the future will see, and it's not very mature or professional nor does it look good for the site. Im cleaning it all up, I DO appreciate the same courtesy. Thanks!

Also FWIW: any look at older posts will show Atilla and I arent the best of friends, and "ganging up" is not our mentality. I HAD my own reasons.

Doom86

Now that we're all acquainted with each other back to getting these heads together before summer is over.

The valve spring height issue was never sorted out. I called comp today and talked to one of their techs for a short bit and he was confused with the numbers too. We checked a few things out that could skew the numbers and didn't find the problem but it got me on track to finding the it later.

Two things were making the numbers inflated. First the retainer was sitting down in the hole of the mic just slightly; putting the oil shield on upside down on the mic with the retainer on it and subtracting the measured .03 for the oil shield revealed this to me. It always felt sloppy sitting on there now I know why. The second culprit I found doing research that led to Crane cams tech articles. The retainer I'm using is dished making for more installed height by design.

Armed with this knowledge I took new measurements. The exhaust are still way off from the rotators missing. Measurements were taken after setting the locks by tapping them with a hammer and readjusting the mic 2 times. All intakes are between 1.745-1.770 and exhaust are between 1.83-1.845. The target install height is 1.700. I'm looking at .060, .060, and .015 shims on almost all the exhaust springs. The closest I can get there is 1.71, that should be OK?

Also when I was talking with the tech at Comp cams he said that I shouldn't have any problems at all breaking in the cam with 981 springs. Hopefully he's right and I couldn't find anyone wiping lobes with them doing some searching so perhaps he's on to something.

Atilla the Fun

1.71" will be fine.
Be sure to use COMP's break-in oil AND their cam assembly lube both. The lube needs to be on the lobes, and on the bottoms of the lifters, and in the rocker arm pushrod dimples, and between the rocker arms / pivot *****.
That should be the safest.

NAASBC355

As far as the exhaust being way high You have some options You can use locks with relocated tangs there are -.030, -.050, and -.060 availible. If you need me to I can mail you a handfull of 30's or 60's I wont miss them. I respect what Atilla said about 981's being to stiff to break in a cam with, and I understand his apprehension in doing that, but I've never had a problem in that department, and I think you should be fine. To get spring heights within .010 of where they are supposed to be is the goal. You did fine there. To reinforce what Atilla said. LUBE EVERYTHING. Every piece that touches a another different piece put lube on it valves, rockers: where the ball sits, where it touch's the valve, the pushrod socket, lifters: the cam face, the body itself where it fits into the block, and where the pushrod sit's, camshaft: you can not put enough lube on a cam especially a flat tappet cam. I didn't see what cam you are using, but if it's flat tappet then it needs to be slick. The key to a flat tappet cam living is the lifter rotating if it doesn't rotate then you're cam is as good as dead. every opertunity you can give a lifter to rotate needs to be given. I would say normal assembly lube may be a shy to sticky for the body of the lifter itself. We thin our lube down with 30 wt. oil for that part, or just submerge the lifters in oil before instalation. Either of these methods will work fine i think. Any other ideas welcome. One more thing, in the first stages of break in the bearings are the priority, and the top end has to wait for a moment or so before getting good oil flow. I usually spray springs with valve spring spray/ wd40 pour oil all over them something to get them wet so in the first 10-15 cycle's when they are running with out constant oil flow they are wet so they will transfer heat to the fluid that's on them. Call me supersticious as this is probably regarded as over the top, and not neccissary, but i do it anyway.

~Couch

Atilla the Fun

I've always found it easier to adjust hydraulic lifters perfect the first try if they have not been soaked. I like to adjust one, then squirt oil on it, then move to the next one.
Maybe a personal preference thing, but I've never had a comeback from it.

NAASBC355

No your right don't soak them!! I meant like dip them in oil if that makes more sense. Like as you walk up to the motor with a dry lifter put assembly lube on the bottom then dip it in a can of oil then drop it in the hole.

~Couch

Doom86

thanks for your help you two much appreciated

I'll pick up 5 qts of comps break in oil and a tube of their lube as well when I go to pick up the last of the valve train (seals and shims).

I have +.05 locks but don't have any negative style (all measurements were taken with std locks). That's not a bad idea though because these retainers give loads of room. After reading your suggestion Couch I remeasured clearance between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the seal and got .560ish and since it was so high I checked the stock hardware and it's .480-.490 so it looks right. I installed stock retainer next to the elgin retainer and you can clearly see the oil ring is well exposed on the elgin and the stock retainer is shrouding it almost completely.

If I were to use -.03 locks on all the intakes it would cut back to 1 shim each. And If I used -.06 locks on the exhaust it would cut them back to 2 shims.

To catch everyone up with the entire build (I know the thread is a long read);

86' 305 with -5cc relief pistons
171cc ported 416 heads
10+cr
Comp XE268 cam (.477/.480 224/230@.05)
CCC Qjet
Performer RPM intake
Hedman Shorties w/ heated O2
3" mandrel bent exhaust.

Now the bad news;

TH200c transmission
2.73 open rear end

The trans/rear combo are going to slow this thing down a lot. I can see one or both being swapped ASAP.

Atilla the Fun

I have a set of 3.42:1, 7.500" gears I have no plans for. You probably want 4.10s, though.

NAASBC355

That bad news is BAD news. If you need any locks just pm me.

~Couch

Doom86

I know right? They both need to go. Though I was thinking I could "band-aid" the situation by getting the rear end from the car that I got the trans from as it's decaying in someone's field behind their house. It was 3.23 from the factory, but probably still open.

It really is a terrible gear ratio the TH200c and T350 have. You gotta go 4.x gear to get off the line hard but then you have crap top end.

The 3.42 would be great if I had the 700r in there still. When I can afford to change gears though I'm just going to swap rears.

There is good news though. I took the car to the track to see what it runs so we can see the effect of the mods. The only change will be the heads and cam, and tuning of course.

TxTtopZ

Update?

Doom86

For whatever reason I stopped getting notifications from this thread so I missed your question until now.

The heads are back from the machine shop and ready to assemble. They were cut for 1.94 intake and had a 5 angle valve job done.

I had some serious inconsistencies back when I was checking spring install height and found out why last night. Before I found the mic was letting the retainer drop down in it and that was skewing numbers a bit but I noticed when I got them back from the machine shop they were "way off" again.

What I found was I have 8 of 16 retainers that install .04 higher. I went through them all on the same valve last night and found this. Once I had them separated you could see that with 8 of them the area where the locks sit was wider. I bought them from RacersOutlet years ago and they came in a ziplock so I betting some got mixed up, probably 7' and 10', we'll see.

Here's some information someone may find useful. I weighed some valve train parts last night to see the "real" difference between them.

Stock retainer = 21 grams
Stock retainer w/ oil shield and locks = 34.5 grams

Stock rotators = 36.5 grams
Stock rotators w/ oil shield and locks = 49.7 grams

Elgin stock size retainer = 16.2 grams
Elgin retainer w/ locks (no oil shield) = 19.9 grams

mlynch001

I would try to find some OEM Steel shim gaskets for a 305. They have smaller bore than the 1094 gasket. .037 is fine for the quench. I try to shoot for .040, but I would not freak if I found .037. Quench is critical for these heads to make any power and to resist detonation. It is hard to believe that you can put thick head gaskets on an engine, lower the compression and make it spark knock! But it happens, I have seen it done! Good work on the heads! You have MUCH more patience than I do. I cannot critique them from a flow bench standpoint, but you did well from the eyeball standpoint. I would fill those rocker stud holes in the port roof for sure, they raise heck with the flow. There is not much may that you did not help those heads. If you are installing 1.9375 valves, I would unshroud the chambers of the adjacent intake valves. Maybe the 1.6 exhausts as well.

Doom86

Thanks for the info if you have any idea where I can find one of these head gaskets, and it's not a small fortune, let me know. Though my machinist recommends using a 350 head gasket because of the valve deshrouding in the chambers.

I considered filling the rocker voids but decided to use the push-rod pinch area to direct flow around it. You can see how it's designed in the photo, it's kinda hard to see the thing. If I ever open up the cross section up I will probably fill it though.

Here's some recent pictures since the machine work has been done. I'll post some more once they are assembled.

The finished volume is 175cc so if the flow is there this should make for a screaming 305. I think it's really going to want to rev, we will find out.

If anyone's interested in the complete build I started a thread for it over in the engine swap forum.

Doom86

I guess it would help if I actually attached the pictures I was talking about??

mlynch001

If you are going to work on the top of the block, the shim gaskets with the 4.1 opening actually are better since they allow more room for this. The 305 shim gaskets are almost impossible to find. They are not expensive, just rare. I can look around and see if I can find some, if I do, I will PM you. I used the 4.1 bore gaskets in my build because I was using the VORTEC EQ Hybrid heads and the chambers were a bit too wide for the 305 shim gaskets. My KB pistons run .023 down the hole and the .019 gasket thickness gives me almost the ideal .040 quench that is critical to engine performance. Your ports look good! You must have helped them over stock. They may not be perfect on a flow bench, but again they cannot be worse than stock 305 ports. I said it before, you have WAY more patience than I do. Good Luck with your build.

TxTtopZ

I believe I posted some 305 shim gaskets on this thread... summit has them, and there is a p/n #........

Edit, yep page 2.

mlynch001

The 4.100 gaskets that you are seeing ARE NOT 305 gaskets, they are just the standard "fit all" gaskets that Fel Pro and others make for SBC with 4" and under bores. This is the steel shim gasket that you come up with for all small bore 262"-350" SBC in Summit. The OEM GM 305 steel shim gaskets, have a diameter across the bore of 3.837 if I am remembering my OEM LG4 305 gaskets correctly. In any case, they would have been just slightly larger than my 3.765 finished bore size. Unfortunately, I could not use these because of the size and shape of the chamber on my EQ Vortec heads. I used the Summit gaskets that Tx Ttop Z and others are referring to. As others have said, the small crevice left by the 4.1 gasket, is much less important to the build than the correct quench space. After more consideration and thought, I would go for the gaskets that Tx Ttop Z and not worry about hunting around for 305 Specific shim gaskets. MUCH easier to find and you were going to do some work on the top of the block to unshroud the valves if I remember correctly, the 4.1 gaskets allow room for unshrouding and the 305 would not. Probably gain more from the unshrouding vs slightly smaller gasket space.

As far as pre-lubing goes, I use a good EP assembly lube on ANY place that there is rotating or rubbing contact between two parts. After the engine is assembled and full of oil, I use a primer to pump the system up, check the pressure relief to see if it is working correctly. After I verify that I do not have external leaks and the oil pressure is correct (60-70psi cold), I turn the engine over by hand with spark plugs out and the valve covers off, while a helper continues to run the primer. After I crank the engine through several revolutions, I look for oil flowing from all of the rocker arm lube holes. This assures that the lifters are full of oil and that the top end lubrication is functioning correctly. At this point, I do the Lash adjustment and bolt the covers on. I have never had a cam failure or other "surprise" issue using this procedure. Also, it is much easier to fix a minor leak or other problem out of the car. I HATE having to re-pull an engine because of some problem that could have been caught and corrected on the engine stand.

TxTtopZ

What? Somethings up! I found some and those that are listed DID say 3.7?? I guess summit made a boo boo and changed the bore.

Doom86

Thanks for the compliment and for the information man. Always good to get it from the guy who' done it. What cam did you use for your 305? Being broke helps "patients" I'll tell you that, if I had money falling out my pockets I probably would have sat the grinder down and put them together a long time ago (or bought aftermarket ). But since I didn't have the funds to put them together I kept at it. I didn't get a before measurement of the runners but people say 155cc stock, so I removed 20cc!

If you look at the last pic of the chamber I posted you can see where the valve was deshrouded it probably opened the chamber up too wide for a 305 gasket now anyway and I do plan on deshrouding the valve on the block as well.

you are right we already had this discussion and we came to the conclusion that Fel-Pro 1094 was the best bet. I even considered JEG's embossed shim because it's half the cost of Fel-Pro but it's .022 thick and that would put quench at .045-.047

Have you gotten a chance to toy with your car yet? I know you were kicking around different ideas for the motor, just didn't know if you found the right one yet.

TxTtopZ

(Big giant exhale) I keep going back and forth! I hate to say it, but I am almost about to take the car a part, so I will be forced into making a decision!

I want to do a 305 but I am afraid of the power I will be leaving on the table (or in this case the garage floor since I already have a vortec 350).
Ive asked everyone on this board who has or HAD a fast 305 what they thought about it, and ALMOST every single one has since dumped the 305 for something bigger and is running considerably faster..
So what I am going to do is check out the short block in the car now and if checks out without having to be re-ringed or anything, im going for it!
Either ported 416's-OR-EQ350H heads
Ported stock base
Comp XFI260 H13 cam kit pretty much rounds out my combo for the 305.

If I go with the 350 short block I have which is ROLLER cammed, then
383 rotating assembly
RHS vortec heads -OR- since I can get deals on Brodix (sponsor/vendor account) maybe a set of those...
Ported stock base
Comp XFI268 HR13

TxTtopZ

Maybe someone can DD the 383 for me and let me know how it turns out

Doom86

Think about it though it has nothing to do with the displacement, and everything to do with the nature of the adrenaline beast. When you get a taste of it you go bigger and faster to get a better taste of it, then it gets boring and you move on. It doesn't matter what you start with it's going to happen. Ask those Vortec 350 guys what they are doing now, they've moved on to LSx, or Turbo, ect, or will be shortly. When the motor gets tired no notable gear head is going to replace it with the same, or lesser power motor if they can help it.

Just build something and have fun doing it. Do not "do nothing" just because you may fail to meet some illusionary standard.

Personally if the 305 in the car is good I would build some heads for it and swap them and the cam. Play with that while you build the Vortec up to drop in later.

TxTtopZ

Yes, thats true, but I am not up for a motor swap fest. Usually I build a car, get bored with it, and get something else. This time me and my wife said that those days are over (kids), she said pick a car you can live with and since I have had some "love affair" with third gen Camaros since I was 8 and have had 6 of them, I picked it because it was my all time favorite. I am going to build an engine, keep the car nice, and then buy **** for the house, buy a new boat etc. Besides, I have to buy family vacations, help pay a ton of bills and keep a new car in the driveway (f-ers expensive too).... so, I will build 1 engine for it, drive it a while and IF I dont end up buying a new Camaro or another truck (on top of wifes new car) then I may build an LSX for it... Just the way the married life goes when your not rich.

Doom86

Give me an hour or so and I will np. You can bet it's going to be a real stump puller with TPI and that cam.

I'm glad I don't have to deal with TPI everything is expensive.

I am VERY SERIOUSLY (yep caps ) considering converting to TBI and using the truck ECM (7747 I think it is) to tune. But the 87' L69 ECM is a drop in deal for my car and it is hacked/tunable and has a great timing table to start. Those ECM's are like 20$ on Ebay.

TxTtopZ

Cool! I appreciate it! I have been meaning to get the new DD...
If you can, try it with a modified version of TPI... something that still "looks" original..thanks...
Also, for what its worth, I think the RHS heads will compliment that cam with TPI better.

Guest

What cut angles were used for those intake seats?

mlynch001

I have been wrong before. I am going to look closer at that gasket. You could very well be right. Q7733SH1 is 4.100 bore dia. I searched for something else, but did not find it yet. Moot point, I think the die is cast for the 4.100 bore. Like I said, that is where I landed.

Doom86

They quoted me 30/45/60 and the long cut under the 60 I'm not 100% sure. When I asked about it the guy who did the work wasn't in and when I talked to him while picking them up I didn't think about it. The guy I talked to first said either 70 or 75 but to ask the guy who did the work when he was in if I needed to be sure.

The valves had 30 degree back cuts on them all too.

TxTtop I need some flow data to plug those RHS heads in if you can find some. I tried those parts listed before with TPI 383 w/ IK 180's and it's a total stump puller like 460ft/lbs at 3500rpm. Peak HP is @ 5000rpm.

Guest

The RHS 180s aren't that much better, but the numbers for them are: 100-74/58, 200-151/101, 300-207/157, 400-243/177, 500-258/186, 600-263/190. Better to look at their big valve Vortecs. 100-77/74, 200-155/140, 300-220/168, 400-263/172, 500-270/174