fastrs1891

iTrader: (1)

i hyrdrolocked my engine while driving through a flooded street. and beening the dumbass i am i decided to crank it till it started. eventually it did. i checked the oil dip stick and it is contaminated with water. anyways what would yall recommend doing first. my oil pressure gauge is showing like 40-50psi at idle. but before that it only had 30 at idle. and also do yall think the water in the pan is from leak down past the cylinders? any advice would be greatly aprecciated.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

hyrdro-locking a motor isn't good as im sure you know.
doing it you can bend rods, break pistons, split cylinders, or lift the heads.
that it still runs without strange noises is usually a good sign.
but there still could be things that are hurt.

first drain the oil and change the filter.
be sure to let it drip for a while to get as much out as you can.
use some cheap oil and filter to refill it because you'll change it again.
start it up and let it run. don't rev it, just let it idle for 20~30 minutes and listen for any strange noises.
keep an eye on the oil pressure and coolant temp.
with the motor still hot, drain it and change the filter letting it drip again for a few minutes.
fill it and start it up. i like to add some marvel mystery oil at this point.
if it still sounds ok, go ahead and rev it a few times. nothing hard, just up to
3~3500 RPM is good. let it idle for a few minutes and then rev it a few more times. repeat this process a few times.
after about an hour, shut it off and see what the oil looks like on the dip stick.
if it looks ok, put some more idle + reving run time on it. another hour or so
should be good.
now change the oil and filter one more time. take it out and drive it.
don't really lean on it, just 1/4~1/2 throttle for acceleration. do some low speed and some hiway cruising. put around 100 or so miles on it.
now, if it still seems to be ok, change the oil and filter using your regular brand and you should be good to go.
at this point i wouldn't take it on a road trip just yet. before i would fully trust it, i would want to get a couple of thousand miles on it before taking it out for a long drive out of town.

you'll also need to check the trans fluid, repack the front wheel bearings, and drain the rear end.


im more than just a little tired of all this rain we've been getting here the last few days myself. but the last i heard, its suppose the continue till at least thursday

blackbmagic

Yes you should drain your oil and refill it with a cheap oil and filter. Before you start it do a seafoam treatment. Buy 2 cans one of the seafoam in the regular bottle and another in the spray can.

Here are the steps I would take.
1. Drain oil. Let oil drain for an hour or longer.
2. Add new cheap filter
3. Add new cheap oil
4. Add contents of Sea-foam to crankcase as directs. You can add a little more than necessary because you will be draining it shortly.
5. Add contents of Sea-foam to gas tank.
6. Start your car and allow to idle to operating temperature.
7. Adjust your idle to 12-1400 and spray sea-foam spray carefully about 6 inches from TB or carb inlet. The car will start to choke just don't add to much at one time add it slowly. Its easy to fowl plugs if too much is added at once during this step.
8. Idle at 3000-4000 to burn off extra sea-foam in the intake chamber.
9. Change oil and filter. Use a better brand that you would normally use in your vehicle. Remember never use fram and dont skimp on the filter.
10. You can still add a small bit of sea-foam to the crank case if you have any left over. This will take care of any extra water.

Sea-foam contains petroleum distillates which takes care of the water. Its one of the best products on the market for this. We use a commercial product containing the same chemicals at the shop. Sea-foam is the closest OTC product. Ive brought a few cars back to life from hydro-lock with this process.

I wouldn't take it on any long road trips or lean on it like DENN said but you should be ok If you don't hear any ticking or rattling. Everything should be in working order.

fastrs1891

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys changing the oil was the first thing I was gonna do. But I didn't know about the seafoam I'll try that too.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Pull all the spark plugs, fill the coolant to full, let it sit for a while and then crank the engine (have a helper do that), and watch the spark plug holes. If coolant comes out of 1 or more cyls, you know it's terminal.

RED86Z28

What is the point of the Seafoam? He should change the oil and hope for the best. If the engine had run since the incident the chambers are clear of the original water.

blackbmagic

Just because the engine runs does not mean the chambers can not still get moisturized, or the pan, pump, pickup etc. is free of all water/moisture. The only thing that will free moisture inside your motor is petroleum. A motor can run with moisture inside I don't know if you know that. A milky dipstick is normally a blown head gasket leaking water or coolant into the camber. The Car will run but not long before lifters start tapping, motor starts knocking etc. Any moisture at all causes premature wear on an engine. Ive seen it happen dozens of times, Most of the time its imports with intake bolt ons that drive everyday. A cold air intake is a quick road to a new motor for a 17yr old kid. Ive gotten 2 kids this summer come in with engine noise because they said they went through a puddle noticed the car bogging and it started to run fine again. 3 weeks later there are problems.

100% petroleum controls the moisture and gets rid of anything that may be still inside the crankcase. If you want to be safe you will add a small amount after as well to keep it under control.

FormulaWolf

I once installed the edelbrock elite air cleaner. It was cool until the seal around my powerbuldge hood wore out with age. One night it rained, leaked through the hood, ontop of the air cleaner, down through the carb, filled the intake manifold past the heads and into some cylinders. There wasn't much water but enough to ruin my morning!

RED86Z28

Changing the oil gets rid of most of the water in the oil system. Once it hits operating temperature the remaining moisture is going to start turning to steam and escaping through the breather and pcv. The chambers are clear once the engine gets going for a few minutes. Dampness would be turned to steam and sent out the exhaust. The only other thing you can do is change the oil again in maybe 200 miles.
I dont understand your claim that petroleum controls water. Oil and gas are also petroleum products and neither mix with water.

MotorMouth

Unless he got water in the gas tank then I would not worry about putting anything in there. If he did get water in the tank I would drain the tank. Unless you live in a very very cold environment which I don't think Texas is this time of year you will not need anything. We use Isopropyl alcohol in our fuel tanks during the winter to coat water droplets so we can burn the before they freeze and clog the lines.

As far as the engine drain the oil for 30 minutes or so until nothing is dripping from the pan. Add the new filter and then the new oil let it run until it warms up. Then stop the motor re-check the oil and see if you notice any water. If not the you are good to go. If you do see a little of the brown milky stuff repeat.