AWES0ME1

Thanks for looking in advanced : )

Ok, my car has issues, ill start by listing all that i can think of... Oh and by the way my car has a 305 TPI that is bone stock besides a new Harmonic Dampener and it has 66k or 106k miles? I don't know exactly but the car's digital dash says 22k miles and 106k kilometers?? Don't know what that is about.

• The car turns over but dies immediately, it attempts to fire up but doesn't idle unless i have my foot on the gas a little.
• I have an exhaust leak where the manifold meets the y pipe on the passenger side. (both of the studs are broken but in the next month its going to the shop)
• There is a jumper or resistor on the plug to the ac pump, don't have a clue why. (any info on this is helpful)
• The last I checked (last night) there were no codes being thrown, but I checked a while ago and there was 12, and 33.
• There is a slight miss when idling, and the first time I drove the car there was a very strong smell of gas near the driver wheel well but no sign of seepage.
• The Check Engine light doesn't come on. (I did unplug the MAF and then it came on, duh*)
• I stupidly screwed with the TPS and now it needs to be adjusted.
• The car gets hot (220 if I forget to turn on the pusher fan)
• The heater doesn't work.

ANY help is appreciated, I have seen other posts but they had no end conclusion.

My thoughts to why it doesn't run are one of the following:

1. O2 Sensor
2. Bad ECM
3. TPS un-tuned
4. Clogged injector
5. IAC
6. MAF

Let me know if I missed something...

Thanks again


Oh and I'm replacing the stock "woofers" in the sails, any recommendations of how i can get oem or something the same after market?

I did find these http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail....rs&model=PLG54 but i don't know if they will work.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

The original code 33 is maf related. Check the wiring, the relay and if they are both good replace the maf sensor. Also check for vacuum leaks. Your fans needing to be turned on indicate the sensor in the right cylinder head or the relay on the firewall need to be replaced. No heat could be caused by a faulty blower motor, or low coolant. Your slight miss means you probably need a tune-up as well. Once all of that is done repost your new results and that should help with any further diagnosis that may or may not be needed.

RED86Z28

220 is the normal operating range for a stock camaro.

AWES0ME1

Thats what I forgot to mention, I have an 86' Trans Am.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't matter if it's a t/a or a camaro. That's still acceptable temp unless you're going over that. If you're running a toggle switch then it shouldn't stay that high unless you toggle it off when the temp drops and back on when it gets higher. If it stays there with the switch on, which was my assumption, then you should look into the thermostat. With the fan on all the time it should run cooler than that.

AWES0ME1

Ok, my friend came over and we temporarily swapped MAF's. To no avail, his car ran fine while mine still took a crap. We are going to keep doing this till we resolve the issue.

By the way, we "Hollowed" the CAT, not sure if this has anything to do with it.

Oh and we checked the plugs and its burning VERY rich (could smell/ see the gas and carbon buildup).

Camarillo

Looked into ignition control module and or ignition coil yet?

AWES0ME1

No, not yet... Haven't had time or money. But I think it might be my computer (ECM) because I can't pull codes with a paper clip. It does nothing.`

oh and also the fuel pressure was right (~42 psi) but they Jerry rigged the fuel pump relay to where the pump was constantly on... now that i think about it, its probably because the pressure kept falling... ill check for leaks and update.