hasty88-and-89

i have no idea where to put jack anyone got a picture, diagram or detailed explanation where to jack the car up from

ALSO anybody got a play by play on changing tranny fluid/filter

my DADS IROC-Z HASNT DRIVEN IN ABOUT 2YEARS CAUSE IT WONT SHIFT INTO SECOND ON FIRST AND REVERSE

TRYING TO GIVE HIM AN CHRISTMAS GIFT BY GETTING HER ON THE ROAD

tazextreme3

I have personally used 4 ramps in the past for undercarriage work. You have to jack the car up then slide the ramps in though. Technically the jack points are on the "frame rails" or "sub frame" or the "unibody structure" whatever you want to call them. They are located at the front and rear and sort of resemble a frame rail but tapers to basically flat sheet metal in the center of the car.
Hopefully I covered that question.

As for the tranny filter; unbolt pan, make giant mess, lower pan, pull off filter using a wiggling motion, install new filter, install new pan gasket, bolt pan back up, torque bolts to factory specs, fill with new fluid.

Merry Christmas.

banker

And for a special Christmas treat get a sump pan with a drain plug installed, and before anyone mentions it, my cars lowered and the sump plug hasn't caught on speed bumps

torque_is_good

fluid change won't fix that problem

hasty88-and-89

he has NEVER changed transmission fluid and im geussing 20 years metal shavings might affect the transmission from shifting?

if not its worth a try.

hasty88-and-89

ALSO is their any recommended way to flush transmission

Apeiron

Pull the governor cover and have a look while you're under there changing the fluid.

torque_is_good

Anything is always worth a try.

Anyway, don't buy synthetic tranny fluid when you do this. When you find that the tranny requires repair, and not just a fluid change, you don't want to have spent $100 on fluid.

b4ccamaro

What I do for a tranny change is first disconnect the upper cooler line from the radiator. Plug in another line into the radiator. Rout the new line to a catch pan turn the car on and and wait for it to start pumping air.

It should pump 3 or 4 quarts of fluid. This will empty most of the fluid out of the pan. Then go down drop the pan and change out the filter.

Then add 4 quarts turn the car on again and it will pump another 4 quarts out then sputter air again. Turn the car off, add 4 more quarts, turn the car on again and repeat.

It should take 4 cycles until it starts pumping out clean fluid. Once it does, connect the cooling lines and top it off.

This way you actually get a filter change and a full fluid swap.

hasty88-and-89

i like your thinking will flush fluid like that....................dextron2 for the 700r4 and doesent changing tranny fluid usually fixes shifting problems
(its never been changed)

ASE doc

The easiest and cheapest way to flush fluid is to use a syphon pump to draw fluid out through the dipstick tube. Empty the pan, then refill it. Start the engine and let idle while cycling the shifter through the gear ranges. Repeat this twice. This works as well as flushing by way of the cooler lines. Only a small portion of the trans fluid is routed through the cooler at idle. Thats why when we flush a 700R4, we run about 14 qts through it just to change about 1/2 of the actual fluid content.

You change about as much fluid with a pan drop as you do with a flush. A pan drop with a flush puts you at about 2/3 total fluid replacement. Running fluid out from an open cooler line until you get air will damage the oil pump. Bad idea.

torque_is_good

would you also like to chime in on his question? I believe the young lad has his expectations set high that changing fluid will fix the problem of not shifting into gears. Changing oil won't fix a spun bearing in an engine. It's called preventive maintenance for a reason.

Again, it won't hurt to drop the pan and change the fluid, but use the cheapest tranny fluid you can find.

ASE doc

Oh sorry, I forgot to touch on that point. Most likely the fluid change will do nothing to help no reverse, first or second, though it cant hurt. Defenitely dont waste money on synthetic fluid in case it has to be dumped. It is interesting that these particular gears are affected. Check the shift cable to be sure the selector shaft is actually traveling to first and second and check it for adjustment at the reverse detent.

Someone mentioned checking the governor for being stuck or damaged. It's also possible that a stuck pressure regulator and/or boost valve could cause the loss of these gears. The stuck valve could be caused by garbage in the fluid. In this case new fluid wont hurt. However, now that the valves are stuck, getting them to break loose without teardown and cleaning is a different story. You may get lucky with something like Lubeguard Red. It might just loosen up the stuck valves.

You could also have a blown Ist/reverse clutch which all of this will do nothing for. If you find large quantities of metal in the pan, consider stopping and looking for a transmission or to have that one rebuilt.

Also, I dont think anyone mentioned this: you will find it difficult to get to the rear pan bolts and to remove the pan. To help this, remove the nut from the trans mount and use a pry bar or floor jack to raise the trans off the mount. You can hold the trans in this position by placing a socket between the mount and crossmember. This will make access to the rear pan bolts and R&R of the pan much easier.

torque_is_good

it's been a couple weeks since the initial post, what did you find?